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Does your D0 run hotter than a C0?

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Voidn

Voidn

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Joined
Apr 24, 2009
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My i7 920 D0 (#3844A759) is hitting higher temps at 1.184 than my i7 920 C0 was at 1.32. Same overclock.

Does your D0 run hotter than a C0?

EDIT

No cooling tips, thanks. Just D0 specs especially batch #, core voltage and full load temps.

EDIT

Answered: Yes and No. There are normal temp/high vcore D0s and high temp/low vcore D0's. Batch 3844A759 is high temp/low vcore.
 

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Have you lapped your TRUE? iv heard that a lot of TRUE's have uneven bottoms (must make it annoying to sit down) and require lapping to get the best contact.... this is only what iv heard as iv never owned a TRUE...
 
How did you apply the TIM? It sounds like you may not have perfected the technique yet.

Washers added to my TRUE helped significantly. So did using a lot less TIM than I originally thought was adequate.
 
I've never lapped anything before but I've been reading about it recently. Since I will have 2 TRUEs soon I will probably lap this one. It needs it too because there is a nick in the bottom but its way on the edge (nice QC). Though it didn't seem to affect my C0. Maybe I just got lucky before.

Adding washers? I'll have to look that up. I used to use a laminated card to make a thin layer all over the CPU. Recently I tried the dot in the center, squish it with the HS and rotate it method. I pulled the TRUE off like 3 times before that pic. And I didn't clean it and start over every time so my TIM job could be so-so, but the temps were worse before.

Looks like I will be perfecting my technique, on a lapped TRUE.
 
Whats your batch number? Mines 3844A759. If I can't get 4ghz at a decent temp then its no better than a C0... except maybe less wattage because of the low volts?
 
Voidn said:
My D0 is hitting higher temps at 1.184 than my C0 was at 1.32. Same overclock. I know my TRUE has something to do with it, because it was getting even hotter so I flipped it 180degrees and now its 10c cooler. I've got a new TRUE on the way (was for my old comp) but in the mean time, while I agonize over my purchase.

Does your D0 run hotter than a C0?
Click to expand...
Are you sure that it wasn't a result of misapplied thermal paste or possibly the cooler wasn't attached properly?
Lapping is an option for the TRUE. I have used them both ways - the base is normally flat. Makes a degree or two difference if you do lap but nothing overwhelming.
And I don't know where this washer crap came from but if you have to use washers to mount a TRUE, then you are doing something seriously wrong from the get-go.
 
3844A717

i am not really concerned these things are such beats out of the box I run 3.67 on 1.12v loaded with 193 blck on bone stock board volts ram at 1544... never hit 50c gaming.

looks like my 3.8 linx temps with 1.184 were 71c max on the highest core. Also font forget linx is kinda NUTS
 
Thanks all for the Cooling input. But what I'm gathering from the D0 owners is that they do run hot. Or is it just the 3844AXXX's that run this hot?

A D0 with 1.2 vCore should be cooler than a C0 with 1.4 vCore no matter how crappy of a job you do on the thermal paste.

Damn. Theres still lots of OC headroom but you'll need ridiculous cooling to use it. I'm not going to give up yet though. Over the next week I'll try some different bios' and OC configs to see what I can come up with.
 
Voidn said:
I've never lapped anything before but I've been reading about it recently. Since I will have 2 TRUEs soon I will probably lap this one. It needs it too because there is a nick in the bottom but its way on the edge (nice QC). Though it didn't seem to affect my C0. Maybe I just got lucky before.

Adding washers? I'll have to look that up. I used to use a laminated card to make a thin layer all over the CPU. Recently I tried the dot in the center, squish it with the HS and rotate it method. I pulled the TRUE off like 3 times before that pic. And I didn't clean it and start over every time so my TIM job could be so-so, but the temps were worse before.

Looks like I will be perfecting my technique, on a lapped TRUE.
Click to expand...

You did it right, but when you remove the HS to look at your work you really need to start over. Otherwise you can get some air bubbles.

chuck4456 said:
And I don't know where this washer crap came from but if you have to use washers to mount a TRUE, then you are doing something seriously wrong from the get-go.
Click to expand...

You might want to do a little research before you call a good idea crap.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=583719

The washer(s) help to increase mounting pressure.
 
Now thats what I'm talking about.

New TRUE + Washer Trick + isopropyl scrub + small amount of AC5.

4GHZ here I come!:beer::attn:
 

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Well even with 1.12v at 3.8ghz my temp are high to.Now this wasnt stable but i wanted to see how low it could go and what temps would be.And this with push/pull yateloons on my TRUE.Its lapped but looks like im gonna need to do the washer MOD and and get some better fans




 
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This batch of D0s definitely runs hotter than the C0s. I'm having trouble getting a stable overclock above 4GHZ because vcore above 1.232 pushes my temps up around 80c in Linx.

1.12v @ 3.8 thats crazy :). Let me know how the washer mod turns out. Since I put the washer on the new TRUE I'm not sure what lowered the temps the most. I'm only using 1 Sony Scythe 1900RPM fan in push, I'll try push/pull and see if I can eek out another couple degrees.

I'm kinda hoping since we are running lower volts that the cpu will use less watts. So even though the temps are keeping us from super high overclocks we'll pay less for power.
 
From the other thread
"looks like you have a normal temp > high vcore chip. the best of the best D0's i've seen thus far are high temp > low vcore chips."

Interesting.
 
My D0 runs close to the same temperature (with the same setup) as my C0 did. That is ~40deg at idle (just as reference point), and ~70 deg under load with small ffts. That's with an ambient of 25degC and 4GHz OC. However this chip does the 4GHz overclock at 1.325V instead of 1.4-1.425v. So yes, lower voltage but roughly the same temperature output. I would say overall I'm seeing about -5 degC difference at load, which could be attributed to the lower voltage needed to reach the overclock. The other contributor might be the fact that I stepped up to an XSPC RX360 rad from a MCR320QP at the same time I switched the chip, so I'm afraid I've changed a few too many variables to give an accurate answer.

And I don't know where this washer crap came from but if you have to use washers to mount a TRUE, then you are doing something seriously wrong from the get-go.
Click to expand...

And what's with this guy? lol. :p
 
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