New EVGA X58 LCS - Placement Questions for P80/Antec1200 Cases

webghost · Oct 7, 2009

New EVGA X58 LCS - Component Layout - Please Advise

I am building a personal system to be used for high end performance using quality projects (where the price drop off is greatest) that is additionally fairly quiet yet able to cool all components. I have outlined all the specifications of the parts in the two images below along with the details below. I would like to know if I am missing anything or if any of the components won't work. I'd also like to make sure to see if I need a top for the MCP pumps to connect to the reservoir? I appreciate any feedback greatly.

QUESTIONS:

The black tubing is not the UV kind. Is it OK to put the black primotech coolant UV into that loop?
MCP pumps -- These will connect to the XSPC dual res. Do I need any more attachments?
Missing any other connectors?

Code:

[B][SIZE="4"][COLOR="Red"]Component	QTY	Part Description[/COLOR][/SIZE][/B]
CASE		1	Corsair Obsidian Series 800D Case
MB		1	EVGA X58 SLI
CPU		1	Intel Core i7 920 2.66 GHz
RAM		2	OCZ DDR3 PC3-12800 Platinum 6GB Triple Channel
GPU		1	XFX HD-489A-ZDFC Radeon HD 4890 1 GB
PSU		1	Corsair HX 850W
HDD		2	WD VelociRaptor 300GB Sata HDD 10K (RAID-0)
HDD		2	WD Caviar Black 1 TB HDD (RAID-1)
FAN-CTRL	1	Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus Fan Controller
RES		1	XSPC Dual 5.25’’ Reservoir (Dual Split Reservoirs For 2 Loops)
LCD		2	Dell G2410 LCD Monitor 
[B][COLOR="LemonChiffon"][ LOOP1 - CPU + NB/SB ][/COLOR][/B]
CPU BLOCK	1	Apogee XT
NB/SB BLOCK	1	EVGA X58 Hydro Copper Waterblock (NB/SB [doesnt have MOSFET])
RAD		1	ThermoChill PA120.3 
TUBE		10	PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD
COOLANT		1	PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Water Cooling Coolant (32 oz.) - Blood Red
PUMP		1	Swiftech MCP 350 Water Pump
FITTINGS		Bitspower 3/8in. Compression Fittings for 5/8in. OD Tubing
FITTINGS		Bitspower Black Sparkle G1/4’’ Barb Fitting—3/8’’ ID 
FITTINGS		Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8’’ OD 5/8’’ 
[B][COLOR="LemonChiffon"][ LOOP2 - GPU ][/COLOR][/B]
GPU BLOCK: 	1	EK Radeon HD4890 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel Plated
RAD		1	Black Ice GTX 240 Radiator 
TUBE		8	PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD
COOLANT		1	PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Water Cooling Coolant (32 oz.)- Black/UV Blue
PUMP		1	Swiftech MCP 350 Water Pump
FITTINGS		Bitspower 3/8in. Compression Fittings for 5/8in. OD Tubing
FITTINGS		Bitspower Black Sparkle G1/4’’ Barb Fitting—3/8’’ ID 
FITTINGS		Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8’’ OD 5/8’’

Conumdrum · Oct 7, 2009

Hmm, those HD coolers might help a teeny bit, why not?

You have wayyy to little rad. I'd look at a 120x3 at a minimum, and if you want low niose levels from the fans you'd be better served with TWO 120x2 rads or a 120x4. It's physics, a rad needs x surface area to dissipate the heat.

Edit: I noticed you want to cool the Mobo too. YES, minimum 120x4 rad area, minimum.

You want a NO mod case? Look at Moutain Mods. Pricy, but very very good.

Get a MCP355 and an XSPC restop, better flow and better looking for sure, and your res is built in.

Resize your pic? Too big.

And finally, you mentioned Thermaltake in a WC part. OMG, never ever buy their stuff. It's badbadbad.

Before you buy, spend a week or so hitting this guide with tons of info HARD.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

webghost · Oct 7, 2009

Thanks for the tips Conumdrum. (Clarified original post and screen shot should fit now) I definitely feel what you're saying and that's why I was having trouble with my case selection. I really wanted to have larger radiators and I couldn't see it fitting anywhere in the cases I had selected or without a good amount of work. I was really trying to see if I should go with the A1200 with a rear-external mount + attached radiator 120x4 (plus adding another loop ... what combinations inside/top/side would work to supplement the system)

My biggest hurdle was finding a case that was easily to mount the radiators. If the HardDrive coolers really do little .. maybe it would be better off to scrap the current case setup with ones that have more accessibility for mounting radiators and make sure my hard drives are well cooled via fans.

I guess I heard very positive about the copper passive HDD coolers from just browsing around .. hmm

webghost · Oct 7, 2009

While thinking out loud ... I realized my fast drives were 2.5'' with additional heat dissipation unit for 3.5'' slot -- which may serve needed purpose. Perhaps I could find 2.5'' large drivers @ 7200 rpm with mounts as well.. maybe that would satisfy me enough to place them behind a fan in a case that would support easier LC part mounting ... recommendations?

Conumdrum · Oct 7, 2009

Yes, no one unless it's for a comp rig or just more money than sense cools their HD's with water.

No WC for the HD, just good medium fannage is fine. HDs are meant to run in the 30c+ range.

You start reading the link I gave you? You should, lots. You'll learn a ton about wattage and heat and fans and flow etc etc.

webghost · Oct 7, 2009

Yes, I've read through the link as well as various others. I've been researching for awhile. I'll update my recommendations for my loops with more details to start narrowing this down. I am going to relook at cases, especially silent ones.

Conumdrum · Oct 8, 2009

Here is a interesting one for a case.

It will easily hold a 320 rad in the front and a 220 on top. You can buy all sorts of accesories for hard drive mounting etc. And different finishes.
http://www.mountainmods.com/computer-cases-pinnacle-c-21_99.html
HD mount, it would go on the inside, connected to the fans on the front rad.
http://www.mountainmods.com/120mm-hard-drive-rack-black-anodized-p-415.html

Danger Den has some neat cases too if you want something different.

If your not going to be a big overclocker, you really would be fine with one 120x4 rad.
But two loops would be better. A 120x3 for the CPU and a 120x2 for the GPU. This will give you room for expansion and overclock headroom. You'd also be able to run queter fans since your overraded somewhat.

Get the DDC3.2 and the XSPC restop for your pump setup.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsretopforla.html

Test results
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/DDC32PumpTopTesting.html

webghost · Oct 8, 2009

I've updated my specs in the original post with new questions. Additionally, I won't be overclocking .. stock/default specs for CPU and GPU. Again, really appreciate any feedback, thanks.

Spawn-Inc · Oct 8, 2009

there is no need for the premade coolants, distilled water and some biocide like Silver or Pt nuke work the best.

silver kill coil

Silver Strip

PT nuke PHN

the XT has such a fine pin matrix it will pick up at gunk that will build up with coolants like that.

if you need colouring go with coloured tubing.

webghost · Oct 8, 2009

Spawn .. yes I was trying to have a dark black/blue loop and a red loop. I wasn't sure if I could do this with just the colored tubing + water + additives .. or if I needed the premade colored coolants.

Also .. with the XSPC I will be able to visibly see the reservoir from the front of the case. I initially thought it would be cool to have the two colors in the water. As I mentioned in my original post, this really is a personal WORKstation that will not be used to showcase anything really .. is it worthless to have colored water?

or

Could I use distilled water + PT nuke + some dye? (Cheaper solution)?

Spawn-Inc · Oct 8, 2009

i admit i went with colouring when i got one of my loops and wanted to try the feser dye's. i tried the red and blue, the blue was good over all but left gunk on the pins on my block after 5-6 months. the red you pretty much need to use the whole bottle to get it near the blood red colour most people go for. i ended up mixing it with a bit of blue. after 5-6 months the blocks were fine, but the tubing was stained.

the only reason for dye is looks, so if this is not a show case then i would just go with the coloured tubing and be done with it.

Conumdrum · Oct 8, 2009

You can use dye, I won't. Many of us won't.

Your choice of rads. You do know the Black Ice GTX (Known as the BIX) is a high FPI fin count and needs higher speed fans to perform? The Thermochill is a low FPI and very good, used to be the king. May I suggest you look at the Black Ice SR-1 series on Danger Dens site? Low FPI, tested well. AND the Thermochill rads have G3/8 threads, not the standard G1/4, so you have to buy adaptors. In summary, there are better rads than the ones you chose.

Rad tests here. It's in the stickies I posted.
http://www.skinneelabs.com/

webghost · Oct 8, 2009

@Conumdrum: Thanks for the tips. Knowing that I will be keeping a low RPM for the fans .. would you recommend switching to a Swiftech MCR320 for the top and a Black Ice SR-1 240 for the bottom? The fans by default I think have higher RPM (without settings); however, I plan on hooking them up to the fan controller I have listed to lower them.

I'll be updating my part list with more specifics to get rid of the coolant solutions and just use the tubing + distilled water + PTNuke. It seems this is the best combo for less maintenance and I really don't care about the color of the water. I also need to count to make sure I get the right number of fittings so I'll be putting quantity on those in the images and list.

Conumdrum · Oct 8, 2009

The MCR 320 is a great 90% solution at a 60% less cost. They are a bit less efficient at low speed fans, but perform well enough.
Again, I'd like to refer you to the rad tests. Look it up, takes a bit of work but you'll see what I mean. If you want ultimate quiet, go with the top perfomer for rads.

Don't forget clamps (screwtype hose clamps are the very best for long term piece of mind) for your barbs. The lined ones are very nice and won't cut the hose, not that I feel it's a problem if the hose under the clamp is marred a bit by the clamp, it's really a non-issue.

There is nothing wrong with getting an extra fitting or two and hose clamps. 8' of hose will be enough, but what if you cut an 18" piece too short? Jump it to 10' per color just to be safe. Never know when you'll be changing things etc.

You want PHN nuke, not PT nuke for distilled (which you buy at walgreens at about $1 a gallon). PHN is better, read up why on Petras site.

Ohh and expect issues with mounting the rads. Screw length, adding feet to raise the case for the bottom rad, and sealing for air somewhat, home made gaskets work fine.

Cutting holes for the rads can be tough, youtube, Danger Den, Petra has vids. You can also mark the holes and take it to a machine shop where they will maybe have a 4" hole cutter, perfect holes every time.

Ohh here is what red and blue Primochill LRT tubing looks like:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016

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