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DDR3 1600 Memory Might Not Run at 1600

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Neillithan

Registered
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Hi, I am planning on building a new PC once I have sufficient funds. I plan on getting 8GB of DDR3 1600 memory, but the motherboard I have selected specifically says it has a memory standard of 1333, but can do 1600 (OC).

This leads me to believe if I throw my ram in that board, they will default to 1333 rather than 1600, and I will have to overclock my memory / motherboard to attain the 1600 speed. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I am curious if it's easy to get the memory to run at 1600, or is it difficult? Will there be any drawbacks to overclocking to run the ram at 1600? Is there potential to damage my hardware or void any warranties? I am a noobie when it comes to overclocking.

These are the specs:

Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53 LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130240


Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303

Also, I don't know if this matters, but here is the CPU:
CPU: Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215

I do not yet own these products so I can't physically test anything you guys suggest doing. I'm merely seeking feedback on whether or not it's possible to run the ram at 1600 without too much hassle or troubleshooting.

Thanks,
-Neil
 
If your motherboard has the abilty to run XMP memory profiles (You have to enable it in the Bios) then you don't have to fiddle with anything...some boards will even detect that you have the 1600MHZ ram and set it right out of the box.

If it doesn't, then you just have to set the voltage, Memory speed and timings..it's not too difficult.

Unless you run a benchmark test, using a CL7 kit won't realy be much faster (I doubt you will notice) then a CL-9 kit.

You might want to consider a similar product though if you don't plan on overclocking the CPU, or going any higher on the memory speed, it uses lower voltage (1.5v)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

You can also use one that runs with 1.35v! (Though one user review said he had to raise voltage to 1.37 for complete stability) and you will save a few bucks on your electric bill over the years.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231319

Overclocking with the MSI board is pretty good according to the reviews, and has software that can do it for you if you want. Ovverclocking through the bios is usually more precise, but requires a bit more time to experiment and has a bit of a learning curve.

If you plan on overclocking the CPU and going for max performance, then your original choice for memory is pretty good, it will get some good benchmark numbers. But in real world apps or games, it's hard to notice the difference between fast DDR1600 at low timings and regular old 1333MHZ memory! (1 or 2 FPS at most in games, unless your getting like 100FPS to begin with..but then who cares!)

Read this article and decide for yourself..there are SOME benefits to fast memory with low latency, but the cost of it is sometimes hard to justify....read the whole article, this is the page that shows some benefits though.

http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3589&p=6

For 85$ this kit is hard to beat! (same as one of the kits above I listed) and put the money you save towards a better video card (Best place to spend money if you play games!) faster CPU etc...or just put back in your wallet!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

As to it voiding your warranty, that is a gray area...1333MHZ is default memory speed for the CPU, and 1600MHZ is theoritically overclocking, even though the CPU speed remains the same. Intel or MSI or GSKILL won't be able to tell if you did though, so I wouldn't worry too much unless you have and ethical issue.

If you run the Memory voltage above 1.5-1.65v then you may damage the CPU according to Intel and early reports of people using the old style high speed overclocking DDR3 that ran at 1.8-2.0v or more did have problems.

http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3426

The memory you have chosen runs right at the top of the Intel limit (1.65v) and should be fine. I myself would stick with the lower voltage kits just because I like to save energy these days. (I used to be an extreme overclocker and my old philosophy was if it's not melting..add more volts!)
 
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The highest DRAM multiplier available is 10x using an i5 750, so in order to run the RAM at it's rated DDR3-1600MHz you'll need to raise the BCLK to 160MHz (160 x 20 = 3.2GHz). And no, you won't damage any hardware or void any warranty by increasing the clock to 3.2GHz.
 
If your motherboard has the abilty to run XMP memory profiles (You have to enable it in the Bios) then you don't have to fiddle with anything...some boards will even detect that you have the 1600MHZ ram and set it right out of the box.

If it doesn't, then you just have to set the voltage, Memory speed and timings..it's not too difficult.

Unless you run a benchmark test, using a CL7 kit won't realy be much faster (I doubt you will notice) then a CL-9 kit.

You might want to consider a similar product though if you don't plan on overclocking the CPU, or going any higher on the memory speed, it uses lower voltage (1.5v)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

You can also use one that runs with 1.35v! (Though one user review said he had to raise voltage to 1.37 for complete stability) and you will save a few bucks on your electric bill over the years.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231319

Overclocking with the MSI board is pretty good according to the reviews, and has software that can do it for you if you want. Ovverclocking through the bios is usually more precise, but requires a bit more time to experiment and has a bit of a learning curve.

If you plan on overclocking the CPU and going for max performance, then your original choice for memory is pretty good, it will get some good benchmark numbers. But in real world apps or games, it's hard to notice the difference between fast DDR1600 at low timings and regular old 1333MHZ memory! (1 or 2 FPS at most in games, unless your getting like 100FPS to begin with..but then who cares!)

Read this article and decide for yourself..there are SOME benefits to fast memory with low latency, but the cost of it is sometimes hard to justify....read the whole article, this is the page that shows some benefits though.

http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3589&p=6

For 85$ this kit is hard to beat! (same as one of the kits above I listed) and put the money you save towards a better video card (Best place to spend money if you play games!) faster CPU etc...or just put back in your wallet!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

As to it voiding your warranty, that is a gray area...1333MHZ is default memory speed for the CPU, and 1600MHZ is theoritically overclocking, even though the CPU speed remains the same. Intel or MSI or GSKILL won't be able to tell if you did though, so I wouldn't worry too much unless you have and ethical issue.

If you run the Memory voltage above 1.5-1.65v then you may damage the CPU according to Intel and early reports of people using the old style high speed overclocking DDR3 that ran at 1.8-2.0v or more did have problems.

http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=3426

The memory you have chosen runs right at the top of the Intel limit (1.65v) and should be fine. I myself would stick with the lower voltage kits just because I like to save energy these days. (I used to be an extreme overclocker and my old philosophy was if it's not melting..add more volts!)

Woo thanks for the reply! Very informative with great links. I haven't read the entire article yet, but after looking at the benchmarks, I can definitely say that the 1600 C7 is not worth the additional $30 compared to the 1600 C9. I think I'm going to take you up on that offer and get the 1600 C9 instead and save some bucks. Since I'm getting 2 sets, you're essentially saving me $60. Thank you! :)

Hopefully you're right and the ram autoclocks and achieves 1600 out of the box, but from what I understand, it's not too difficult to make the ram achieve 1600.

At the present moment, I don't plan on overclocking the CPU, but if that's easy, I just might do it. I'm going to be purchasing an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 heatsink fan.

Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

Oh, which brings me to another question. I noticed the ram is slightly taller than conventional ram. With the CPU heatsink's fan looming over regular ram, will that pose a problem for taller ram, specifically the ripjaws you selected? In other words, will the fan occupy the space of the ram or will I be able to fit the ram without issue?

Also, regarding the videocard. I'm getting the GTX 275 because the price vantage falls right between $2-300. I'm trying to keep the video card under the $350 mark, preferably under $300. If you were to get a different card (regardless of price), which would you get and why?

Thanks again for the detailed replies. You guys rock.
-Neil
 
Woo thanks for the reply! Very informative with great links. I haven't read the entire article yet, but after looking at the benchmarks, I can definitely say that the 1600 C7 is not worth the additional $30 compared to the 1600 C9. I think I'm going to take you up on that offer and get the 1600 C9 instead and save some bucks. Since I'm getting 2 sets, you're essentially saving me $60. Thank you! :)



Hopefully you're right and the ram autoclocks and achieves 1600 out of the box, but from what I understand, it's not too difficult to make the ram achieve 1600.

At the present moment, I don't plan on overclocking the CPU, but if that's easy, I just might do it. I'm going to be purchasing an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 heatsink fan.

Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

Oh, which brings me to another question. I noticed the ram is slightly taller than conventional ram. With the CPU heatsink's fan looming over regular ram, will that pose a problem for taller ram, specifically the ripjaws you selected? In other words, will the fan occupy the space of the ram or will I be able to fit the ram without issue?

Also, regarding the videocard. I'm getting the GTX 275 because the price vantage falls right between $2-300. I'm trying to keep the video card under the $350 mark, preferably under $300. If you were to get a different card (regardless of price), which would you get and why?

Thanks again for the detailed replies. You guys rock.
-Neil

Your welcome...you can buy me a soda if you ever make it to the detroit area ;)

It's possible the ram may hit the CPU cooler you selected if the fan is faced towards the ram, but MOST coolers are mounted (And the best way IMO) so the fan is blowing the hot air towards the back near where the 80-120MM exhaust case fan is, and you should have plenty of clearance...check around on the web/forums and see if you can find some pics of a cooler installed on that board, I didn't find any in the reviews I looked at.

Also read the motherboard, ram, and CPU cooler customer reviews at New Egg and see if anyone complained about it...I do that anyways before I buy ANYTHING!

Overclocking can be done in the Bios (The hard way, but is usually better) or the easy way with the OC software MSI has for the motherboard...it's the quick and dirty way, and is a good way to learn and get your feet wet without getting yourself in too deep.

I have usually bought NVIDA cards myself, I like the drivers and the performance..however the last year or so, the hardware has fallen way behind what ATI has to offer currently, and ther next generation of cards (Fermi) is way behind schedule..I don't expect to see them in any kind of volume till March or possibly later.

ATI is the only "Game" in town right now, they have DX-11, NVIDA is still stuck on DX-10 or 10.1, DX-11 and Windows 7 is is the way to go, anything else will be out of date when the newer games hit the shelves.

They have 3 cards I would consider, the 5870 for 399$ and up (High End) that is almost on par with the more expensive "Dual GPU" GTX 295, and is the fastest "Single" gpu you can buy...but at 400$ I would pass!
http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3643

5850 for 289$ and up (High Mid range, just a slower version of the 5870) and is faster then a GTX 285, and below the GTX 295
http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3650

And the 5770 (130$) 5750 (145$) at the high part of the low end. (Slightly slower then the GTX 260 or ATI 4870) and this is probably a bit wimpy for what you want performance wise.
http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3658

They are missing the DX-11 sweet spot in the in the 200-250$ range (Maybe a 5830 or something will arrive soon) unless you go DirectX-10, then the older 4870/4890 will work.

I think the 5850 is gonna be your best bet for your budget... it was originally supposed to retail for 259$. Demand for it is high, with low supplies due to some early glitches in reaching target volumes...so it has driven the price up, but may drop by the time you are ready to buy.

EDIT: I was right..a 5830 is coming out with a MSRP of 239$
http://www.fudzilla.com/content/view/17448/65/
 
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It seems to me like the 5850 is the best card for the best performance at $300 or less. It would be awesome if this card was $275 or less, that way I could truly justify spending more than I had initially planned on a video card.

Now that you've got me thinking about video cards, I really want the 5850. The problem is, a few months down the road, nvidia will release their new line of cards and from what I understand, it's supposed to blow ATIs current cards away. I don't know if that's just hype or if they will really whip ATI's tail.

Hypothetically speaking, If I spend the extra cash on a video card now, that means I will want to keep it longer... and it will be that much harder to upgrade it to a true successor 1-2 years from now, considering I paid $300 for the graphics card when my initial plan was to buy a cheap, yet powerful card (GTX 275 being only $230). I just found out I could save even more money by purchasing an overclocked GTX 260, which is ~$200 and slightly faster than the GTX 275.

I'm just afraid that 3-4 months down the road, I will feel guilty for getting a higher end card, especially if nvidia forces AMD to lower its prices rapidly on the 5850. I think this time of the year is not a good time to spend top dollar on video cards when I have yet to see what nvidia will do to 1up the ATI 5000 series.

These are just my musings. I'm not trying to tell you you're wrong or anything of that nature. I'm just undecided.

Edit: It turns out this card is pretty beastily, coming extremely close to the 5850 in terms of performance. Priced around the ~$200 mark. It's hard to say no to this.
Benchmark: http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3656&p=4
Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=gigabyte_gtx_260-_-14-125-294-_-Product

My conclusion: Slightly less performance than the 5850 for about $90 less. What do you think?

Edit 2: I just noticed this: The GTX 260 Super Overclocked only has 1 DVI, but it has an HDMI with an HDMI to DVI converter. What the heck?

Thanks,
-Neil
 
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Welcome to the wonderfull world of "Caught between upgrade cycles" :bang head

Yes the new NVIDIA card is due out in March...but you can bet it will be expensive and hard to find at first....the prices and availability won't get decent till a few months later.

You said your not quite ready to buy hardware yet, so all you can do is have a look around at whats in your price range when your ready to order.

Just remember that the GTX260 is overclocked quite a bit...if you overclock the GTX275 or the 5850...they jump ahead too.

You can get nearly the same performance from a regular GTX 260 by overclocking it yourself and save a few bucks if you want also....they are just doing it for you is all and charging you a few more bucks.

Don't know much about the HDMI and DVI stuff since I use headphones (USB) for gaming and a CRT still...don't like LCD's!
 
Welcome to the wonderfull world of "Caught between upgrade cycles" :bang head

Yes the new NVIDIA card is due out in March...but you can bet it will be expensive and hard to find at first....the prices and availability won't get decent till a few months later.

You said your not quite ready to buy hardware yet, so all you can do is have a look around at whats in your price range when your ready to order.

Just remember that the GTX260 is overclocked quite a bit...if you overclock the GTX275 or the 5850...they jump ahead too.

You can get nearly the same performance from a regular GTX 260 by overclocking it yourself and save a few bucks if you want also....they are just doing it for you is all and charging you a few more bucks.

Don't know much about the HDMI and DVI stuff since I use headphones (USB) for gaming and a CRT still...don't like LCD's!

Very true. I do seem to be stuck between upgrade cycles. I have already purchased the case and powersupply for my computer. I plan to buy the main stuff like motherboard, ram, cpu together... that way I can get the bulk of the computer built and functional and start testing it right away.

I reasoned with myself last night. By getting the Super Overclocked GTX 260 from Gigabyte, I can save an extra few bucks. I decided to swap out the DVD burner with a Blu Ray Player / DVD DL Burner. It's $100, but I'll be able to watch Blu Ray movies.

Here is a list of the full specs so far:

COOLER MASTER Storm Sniper SGC-6000-KXN1-GP Black Steel, ABS Plastic, Mesh bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

MSI P55-CD53 LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

GIGABYTE GV-N26SO-896I GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - Retail

Rosewill BRONZE series RBR750-M 750W Continuous@40°C, 80Plus Bronze Certified,Modular Cable Design,Active PFC "Compatible ... - Retail

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750 - Retail

2x G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL - Retail

LG Black 8X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 40X CD-ROM SATA Internal Combo LG Blu-ray Reader & 16X LightScribe DVD±R DVD Burner - Retail

ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm Fluid Dynamic CPU Cooler - Retail

For harddrives, I plan on repurposing one of my 1.5TB Seagates and a couple other harddrives. For sound, I'm going to repurpose my X-Fi Fatal1ty Platinum Whatever.

Right now the total cost is sitting at $1062 excluding shipping.

Edit: I was just concerned that the lack of a DVI would prevent me from dual monitoring, but the card comes with an HDMI to DVI converter. HDMI and DVI are both digital, so there won't be any loss in quality between the conversion. That should allow me to use my second monitor. :)

-Neil
 
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