[Cobracity]

Alright I'm committed now...

I have about 3500 to drop on a new rig, here are my proposed specs:

Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 (not the "S")
Asus P6t Deluxe v 2
Intel core i7 930
6 GB Corsair Dominator
Powercolor 5870 Radion (pre installed ek water block)
Hard drive, DVD rom, etc....
Dual monitors

for the cooling:

XSPC dual bay reservoir with 2 laing pumps for separate loops
EK Full board block and mosfets
5870 block comes with the card
Danger Den CPU block for the 930
1 x 120 radiator for the GPU, 2x 120 radiator for the CPU and MB

I will use compression fittings and Tygon tubing throughout.

I need a very good 2 x 120 radiator for the top of the case, and a good 1 x 120 radiator for the rear of the case. I also need a good fan(s) recommendation for maximum airflow at the quietest DB level. I want to build the whole thing inside the case.

I just bought a broken ASUS P6T deluxe V2 on ebay today, so that I can test the MB blocks install without damaging the MB. That should also allow me to test for leaks with the MB in place inside the case.

I also need good recommendations for flow / temp meters to install in the loops.

And another question: if I get 3/8" ID compression fittings, do I need to worry about the OD of the tubing? Or can I just make sure I have 3/8 ID tubing?

Sorry for all the questions at once, but it is my first water cooled build.

[Elfie]

I'm still learning but I'll have a go at answering.

Firstly start reading, a lot

http://overclockerstech.com/index.ph...ling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/25...rcooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=631501

If you plan on overclocking the 930 then a triple rad will be required to keep control of the temps with reasonably low fan noise and you should think about another triple rad for the GPU especially if you want to add another later. A single 120 won't do it.

AFAIK you'll need 1/2" OD tubing for 3/8" ID with compression fittings. I like compression fittings they look neater but are a bit more pricey than simple barbs.

At the moment the Swiftech Apogee XT and Heatkiller 3.0 CPU blocks are at the top of the heap but someone mentioned here that there's a new EK block out with better performance.

If you're spending that amount have you thought about a case more suited to watercooling like a Silverstone TJ07 or a Mountain Mods (drool).

You don't need cooling for the mosfets & chipset unless you're planning on insane overclocks.

The Asus P6TD Deluxe is a later revision of that motherboard.

Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1450 or 1850 are very good for a good compromise between airflow and noise levels.

[Grosjambon]

Good hint Elfie.
For the Graphic card, are u planning to buy a second one in a near future (6month-1years) if yes ubetter buying a triple / quad rad if u want to keep acceptable temps. Do Not UnderRad the Heatload of those little beasty.because you will '' '' after.
For Coolant : DISTILLED WATER + PT NUKE Will do the trick do not buy Dyes or colored coolant they are bad juju.
Tubing : Uv colors one will do the tricks. an alternative for tygoon is primochill they have an excellent bend radius.

[seeka12]

Originally Posted by Elfie

At the moment the Swiftech Apogee XT and Heatkiller 3.0 CPU blocks are at the top of the heap but someone mentioned here that there's a new EK block out with better performance.

That's Right Vapor at skinnee Labs did a test for the new EK Supreme HF waterblock and found that it is the Top one when used with Plate 1(Eddy of Ek wrote on another forum that he is thinking of changing plate 1 to be the stock instead of the stock one but i don't know if it is changed)

You will want to use a triple or quad radiator but i don't think you can fit anything bigger than the dual radiator in that cosmos 1000 without modding so i suggest getting a silverstone TJ07 as it can hold a quad and dual radiator so it would be nice for water cooling or if you have the money and don't mind to wait for weeks for your case to be shipped you can take a look at mountainmods.com cases

[Cobracity]

Thanks for the responses.

I already have the case, just the insides I don't have yet. I really had no intention at the moment of overclocking, just trying to rig for silent operation (and fool around with wc'ing). I had no idea it would take a triple radiator to cool one component. Do they make a case that will fit 2 triple rads?

I will definitely keep reading and researching....

[Detale]

Most everything looks decent bro. The only few minor suggestions if i may are stay away from thw XSPC dual bay res. I know some people have been perfectly fine using this thing but I had 3 leaks in 3 of them in a row. Leak-RMA-leak_RMA-leak-refund. I went with the bitspower dual bay and put both pumps in tandem using a single loop instead. I know it sounds weird but it does work out well. Skinee labs did an awesome test on the effects of 2 pumps in a row here

The other thing is you may want to thing about more rad for the CPU especially if you are cooling your Mobo as well. It will work but if you want to do any OCing at all. The 930 is a hot ass chip bud you may want to consider a single loop with a bigger rad if you can. I never used the cosmos 1000 but I know you could fit a 4.120 in a Silverstone TJ-07 or even a corsair 800D.

Here's what I did on my latest build.

[muddocktor]

The only single fan rad that might have a chance of cooling an overclocked i7 would be the Thermochill PA160.1, which is no longer made and the link is the only store I've found to still show stock on it. It will cool as good as an MCR220 or maybe better, IMO. I have one running on the 940BE system in my sig. Otherwise, look into a double or triple fan rad for the cpu loop.

[Cobracity]

Hey Detale,

What kind of tubing is that? I like it.

[Detale]

PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV White Tubing

Also I just saw you want to use compression fittings. may I suggest using Enzotech ones. They're cheap and work well

[Spawn-Inc]

good parts for the most part, but you need more rad then posted.

i would opt at least a double 120mm for the cpu on it's own and a triple 120mm if your going to put the motherboard with the cpu.

a single should be enough for the gpu.

for quiet rads get either XSPC RX series or Black ice SR-1 series rads.

[Cobracity]

Just so I understand some basic principles here:

1. Generally speaking a CPU runs hotter than a GPU, correct?

2. Chipset / MB run cooler than a GPU?

3. The temp of the coolant in the loop stabilizes over time, so after a while the coolant temp is almost a constant running through the whole loop. I think I said that wrong but I hope you get the idea...(starts cold from startup of a cold comp, heats up going through the loop, eventually reaches a constant temp varying a few degrees along different parts of the loop).

4. what do you guys use to monitor your temps?

[Grosjambon]

1. Cpu are more sensitive to heat than Gpu.
2. Chpiset/Mb never get too hot to require watercooling except with extreme O.C
3. Water will be at Ambient temps. With more rad u will have a lower Delta T ( which mean a Delta T of 5 will be Ambien temps + 5degree = Water temps ( Ithink Correct me if i am wrong spawn/conum Only way to have a lower Delta T = More Rad.
4. Everest - Htmonitor - coretemps

[Spawn-Inc]

1. i would say gpu's run hotter, but they generally aren't as effected by heat as a cpu is when it comes to overclocking.

2. yes.

3. exactly, it's called equilibrium. that's why it doesn't matter when it comes to loop order.

4.for cpu i use coretemp, realtemp. for gpu's i use evga precision, or ati tool.
or you can use 1 program for all, everest.


EDIT:

Originally Posted by Grosjambon

3. Water will be at Ambient temps. With more rad u will have a lower Delta T ( which mean a Delta T of 5 will be Ambien temps + 5degree = Water temps ( Ithink Correct me if i am wrong spawn/conum Only way to have a lower Delta T = More Rad.

correct and incorrect.

water will only be at ambient temps after the computer has been off for a while. once you turn it on your water temp will rise until you reach equilibrium. at which point you can find out your air/water delta temps as you said. (water temp - ambient air = delta)

[Cobracity]

If I shun the XSPC dual bay / pump reservoir, is there another one out there which allows for two separate loops from one reservoir?

I have seen mods for the cosmos which allow the placement of a triple 120 rad in the top of the case. Assuming I am able to fit one in there, without an overclock, could I run the MB and CPU on one loop with the triple rad, and then a single 120 for the GPU and I'm good to go?

Also does anyone use flow meters? Or just going by the temp of the loop you can tell the coolant is moving?

[Grosjambon]

Flow Meter are not neccesary and restrict Flow. Dont buy one.
yea u can run A cpu + mobo on a triple rad with no O.C.

[Spawn-Inc]

to my knowledge there is no other option for a single res with 2 pumps that are completely separate loops.

and no flow meters are not used and serve no real purpose in todays loops.

triple for cpu and mb is fine with no oc's to light oc's.

[Cobracity]

Ok maybe a dumb question: what do I need to start cutting extra holes in the case for the triple rad? A dremel tool maybe?

[muddocktor]

That's what I mainly use for modding cases. There is also the case nibbler that you can use, but I have never used one personally.

[Spawn-Inc]

didn't know you could get those nibblers so cheap.

dremel is my main tool for modding a case i would say.

[Detale]

Nibblers are hard to use especially when making turns. I have used both a manual one and an electric one. The manual one is way harder to use and will need to be filed down when you're done. Overall the dremmel, or even better still a rotozip, is a good thing to use but if you are going to cut a hole for a fan you can use a metal hole saw first then trim it with a dremmel or rotozip. I prefer the rotozip as it's more powerful than the dremmel and gives you a better overall cut.