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If already using Ptnuke, is a silver coil necessary?

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Old 03-30-10, 01:19 PM Thread Starter   #1
J-honson
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If already using Ptnuke, is a silver coil necessary?


or are any other additives necessary (e.g. something to prevent corrosion) and is it save to mix these

also is distilled water deionized?

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Old 03-30-10, 02:24 PM   #2
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If your loop is all cooper ( and plastic ) your fine.

I only use Distilled and PTnuke and never had any issue for years.

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Old 03-30-10, 10:33 PM   #3
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Yep, agree 10000%!

Copper/brass/nickle/chrome, as long as there is no aluminummumum.

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Old 03-30-10, 10:47 PM   #4
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And also, to the best of my knowledge, distilled water is demineralized and deionized.

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Old 03-30-10, 10:58 PM   #5
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Yep, they pretty much are the same thing. Removing hard chemicals and particulates is achieved in both.

Either is just fine in a WC loop.

We have a $600 tester at work. When I do my 6 month drain, I will do some tests.

I run distilled, PHN Nuke, and a kill coil in a proper loop.

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Old 03-30-10, 11:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum View Post
I run distilled, PHN Nuke, and a kill coil in a proper loop.
Just straight distilled with Bitspower True Silver barbs here. Although I have heard something about the possibility of galvanic corrosion with silver and copper/brass thanks to the research QI has been doing. Although the numbers he put up do make it seem to be a very slow process, especially compared to aluminum.

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Old 03-31-10, 12:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrosion-doctors.org
Galvanic Compatibility
For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.

Index (V)

• Gold, solid and plated, Gold-platinum alloy : 0.00
• Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper : 0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal. High nickel-copper alloys : 0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel : 0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder;
German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys : 0.35
Brass and bronzes : 0.40
High brasses and bronzes : 0.45
• 18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels : 0.50
• Chromium plated; tin plated; 12%
chromium type corrosion-resistant steels : 0.60
• Tin-plate; tin-lead solder : 0.65
• Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys : 0.70
Aluminum, wrought alloys of the 2000 Series : 0.75
• Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels : 0.85
• Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000
Series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type : 0.90
• Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type,
cadmium, plated and chromate : 0.95
• Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel 1.20
• Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated : 1.25
• Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought : 1.75
• Beryllium : 1.85
Considering we have a Humid environement but with no salts of chimical, i thin kwe can accept a lil more than 0.15 in this table. But 0.45 to AL is way to much !

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Old 03-31-10, 12:34 AM   #8
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Hey guys so is it better to run coolent thats comes with the water cooling kits or distilled water?

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Old 03-31-10, 12:45 AM   #9
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Hmm, from wjhat you have read in this thread what do you think.?

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Old 03-31-10, 01:05 AM   #10
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well im running coolent and i see alot of people are running distilled water what is the reason for that ive been reading alot and not really seeing why

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Old 03-31-10, 04:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew149 View Post
well im running coolent and i see alot of people are running distilled water what is the reason for that ive been reading alot and not really seeing why
Water has a higher heat conductivity than coolants, meaning heat will transfer to water easier than those said coolants. You also have the issue of dyes, which tend to break down, and leave residue all over your tubing, res, pump impeller (which hurts flow rate and pressure), pump bearings (slowing the gummed up impeller down even more), and most importantly, your blocks. When this residue gets all over the inside of your blocks, not only does it create restriction in the loop (on top of what the pump is already suffering), but it also insulates the inside of the block, so heat can't transfer efficiently to the cooling medium. Most water blocks these days have several small "pins" on the inside of the mating surface of the block, which increases surface area in contact with the water. When you have this residue in between those pins, it not only slows the flow even more, but also decreases the surface area in contact with the water, which causes increased temps.

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Old 03-31-10, 01:44 PM   #12
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+1 deadlysyn.


For 100% safety and performance, distilled + ptnuke is the way to go.

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Old 03-31-10, 02:41 PM   #13
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Yeah, distilled water and PT/PHN Nuke is definitely the ****nit. You can add silver to the loop too, but it's not necessary. And if you want color in your tubing, buy some colored tubing. If you want color in your res, use a couple of led lights the color you want.
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Old 04-01-10, 08:20 AM   #14
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hey can anyone show me a pic of there setups i would like to see how it looks

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Old 04-01-10, 09:19 AM   #15
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Old 04-01-10, 02:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum View Post
Yep, they pretty much are the same thing. Removing hard chemicals and particulates is achieved in both.
Ultra Pure, Distilled and Deionized are not the same thing.
I do not know all the exact differences but Deionized will cause immediate corrosion when introduced to most metals. Especially Aluminum, copper, brass and steels - It rips Ions out of the metals structure.
To Deionize water you must first distill/filter it to a very pure state.

In the Chemical industry they use SS or plastics to handle DI water. According to a Chemical Engineer friend of mine - You can not drink DI water. It will cause you all kinds of problems (it could possibly kill you).

Distillation does not Deionize water, neither does filtering it to the ultra pure state.

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Old 04-01-10, 03:06 PM   #17
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You can drink deionized or distilled water, have done so many times at work. But deionized doesnt have much taste to it, prefer some minerals dissolved in mine.

Deionized and distilled and tap water for that matter are all hypotonic to cells, and injecting water in blood stream will lyse cells, though have to inject a lot to kill someone, which is why balanced salt solution is used in IV fluids. But your intestines wont care whether you drink deionized, distilled or tap. The only argument is whether drinking nothing but deionized or distilled water would leave someone mineral deficient...though dont believe in that either nor care to debate it.

If copper pipes are constantly flushed with fresh deionized water, not a good idea, they will damage them over long haul. But in our loops within a matter of days, ions from water blocks and rads will dissolve and no more deionized water. There is a government sponsored survey that shows distilled or deionized will leach ions and become fully conductive in a matter of several days, and reach steady state after weeks, not like it will continue to dissolve after few ppm concentration has been reached.

A week after its been in your loop, there will be little to no difference between deionized and distilled, except the inevitable variable quality of purification/storage found in either.

Frankly, I would use either, whatever was more convenient, along with ptnuke or silver coils. My only preference for distilled is usually cheaper and its at supermarket.

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Old 04-15-10, 07:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulard83 View Post
Considering we have a Humid environement but with no salts of chimical, i thin kwe can accept a lil more than 0.15 in this table. But 0.45 to AL is way to much !
The concern I had was silver to brass, which can be as high as 0.25. That's pushing the "medium" environment for corrosion. I doubt our components are made from high brass, which would bring the difference to 0.30 - I believe that's reserved for boat fittings and things of that nature though brass plumbing fittings may fall into this category as well.

I also noted that Bitspower sells gold platted fittings and gold/brass is a 0.40 difference, which is as bad as the dreaded aluminum/copper difference. Don't know what Bitspower was thinking but they should take them off the market or issue a warning to unsuspecting builders ...
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Old 04-15-10, 09:07 PM   #19
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Why doesn't anybody make a zinc anode that will fit in a reservoir?? Corrosion protection for those with aluminum rads.
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Old 04-15-10, 09:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Why doesn't anybody make a zinc anode that will fit in a reservoir?? Corrosion protection for those with aluminum rads.
No one really uses aluminum in the know, and the ones who don't know would never know about a sacrificial zinc solution.

Good idea tho.

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