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Old 04-20-10, 08:47 AM Thread Starter   #61
Brolloks
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Not yet Nick, I'm sure I should be able to find one locally

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Old 06-05-10, 12:47 PM   #62
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bump for a good guide. Sticky?

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Old 06-05-10, 01:23 PM Thread Starter   #63
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bump for a good guide. Sticky?
Good idea

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Old 08-25-10, 01:43 AM   #64
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Good reading. When am I going to move up? I need to get myself a dice pot.

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Old 12-14-10, 03:15 PM   #65
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this makes me feel poor ! i resort to a h70 with a ice bucket to get 4.5ghz out of a 1090T !! i want a dice pot but cant afford it grrr

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Old 12-15-10, 04:24 AM   #66
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Poor? Check out my cooling setup. -7c(19f) outside so I opened a window in a spare room, set up some fans and went to work. Got it down to 4c (39f) on top of the hsf. Only got another 20Mhz out of it but did find out some things. XFX GTS 250 allows higher boots to windows, hD5770 booted to win 60Mhz lower, but the winner was the built-in graphics, by 20Mhz. Hoodathunk? But did brake 4200 with x3 740 with 3 cores running. Did this to run wprime32M but didn't beat my score. Really liked the DICE write-up, thanks, can't wait to try it.

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Old 02-01-11, 08:46 AM   #67
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Great write up! Welcome to dice land, Now crank those volts!

20-25lbs would last me 2 days on single and dual cores. I burned through almost 40lbs dice'ing a 920 last weekend .

I bought 2 boxes of eraser from this place. They offer bulk discounts.
Link is dead. Anyone remember what brand it was? I can only find these brands, and is wondering if any of you got any experience with them?

-Cretacolor
-Faber-Castell
-Talens
-Lyra
-Boesner

Or shouldn't I care much about brand, and just go with the cheapest one?

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Old 02-01-11, 08:56 AM Thread Starter   #68
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Faber-Castell you can get at your local Hobby Lobby as well, or Michaels, cheap and works great

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Old 02-01-11, 09:14 AM   #69
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I bought Faber-Castell at Michaels like Brolloks is saying, never ended up using them since I went the foam route .

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Old 02-01-11, 09:17 AM   #70
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Aye, I bought at least four of them but went with Frost King too. Eraser is great to seal, but frost forms on it if not insulated properly. Going with insulation from the bottom up fixes that.

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Old 02-01-11, 09:26 AM Thread Starter   #71
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Best of both world is to use just a bit of eraser around the socket to seal it off, then use frost king or whatever you like to insulate the rest of the area between the socket and the PWM sinks

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Old 02-01-11, 09:27 AM   #72
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Quote:
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Best of both world is to use just a bit of eraser around the socket to seal it off, then use frost king or whatever you like to insulate the rest of the area between the socket and the PWM sinks
Very true; it's tough cutting close enough to the socket and this would make that much easier.

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Old 02-01-11, 10:07 AM   #73
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Hmm, the eraser is just very easy for me to get. I have no Idea where to get Frost King here in Denmark, and I'm pretty sure I'll get some very odd looks if I start asking in the local hardware store Does any kind of insulation foam work? Sounds like a combination of the two would be nice to work with. And as a noob, I need that kind of insulation thats easiest to work with, so i dont kill anything...

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Old 02-01-11, 10:21 AM Thread Starter   #74
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If you conformal the board all you really need is that bit of eraser around the socket to seal it off, the conformal will make sure the rest stays waterproof.

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Old 02-01-11, 10:23 AM   #75
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Quote:
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Hmm, the eraser is just very easy for me to get. I have no Idea where to get Frost King here in Denmark, and I'm pretty sure I'll get some very odd looks if I start asking in the local hardware store Does any kind of insulation foam work? Sounds like a combination of the two would be nice to work with. And as a noob, I need that kind of insulation thats easiest to work with, so i dont kill anything...
Depending on which pot you get, it should have a sufficient amount of insulation with it. Combine that with the eraser on the board and you should be good to go.

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Old 02-01-11, 10:41 AM   #76
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Depending on which pot you get, it should have a sufficient amount of insulation with it. Combine that with the eraser on the board and you should be good to go.
This. You can disregard at least part of what I say out of sheer paranoia. I'm not near as experienced in the cold as these guys. Their expertise is much greater than my meager knowledge.

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Old 02-01-11, 11:37 AM   #77
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Depending on which pot you get, it should have a sufficient amount of insulation with it. Combine that with the eraser on the board and you should be good to go.
I've just requested prices on 2 of the BartX pots and 3 of the Piotres pots, so I'm thinking it's going to be one of those. They come with isolation, but I dont know if it's enough? What about the backside of the mobo?
You can see the pots I'm looking at here:
http://www.piotres.com/
http://www.bartxstore.cba.pl/


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If you conformal the board all you really need is that bit of eraser around the socket to seal it off, the conformal will make sure the rest stays waterproof.
Ok, language barrier kicking in here. Conformal? What's that?

Quote:
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This. You can disregard at least part of what I say out of sheer paranoia. I'm not near as experienced in the cold as these guys. Their expertise is much greater than my meager knowledge.
I will hear what they say about it, but thanks for you input anyway And a little paranoia is fine by me, because I really dont want to kill anything. So better safe than sorry.

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Old 02-01-11, 11:48 AM   #78
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backside needs something as well.

Conformal is a spray on coating that prevents mositure from reaching the board.

Note 1st entry here: http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...6&Tab=Products

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Old 02-01-11, 01:54 PM   #79
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Think specialized spray paint that is specifically designed to be sprayed onto boards to protect from water.

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Old 02-01-11, 01:58 PM   #80
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Just so you know the pots will come with a big piece of armaflex that you can put on the backside of the board between the eraser and backplate.

You will want to cover the socket area on the backside with eraser.

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