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Old 02-17-02, 03:47 AM   #1
soil
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running Tualatin on CuMine MB w/o Powerleap

1ĦBAN3ĦBAJ3ĦBAK4 open with mainboard
2ĦBAK4 and AK26 short

3ĦBwire trick on Vcc (jumper setting Vcore to 1.5V even better)

http://www1.oc.com.tw/forums/msg.asp...=74399&posit=5

if this is feaible Powerleap is making huge margin
and Intel is also making immoral profits
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Old 02-17-02, 06:08 AM   #2
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Lightbulb

Soil, I've been wondering about the same thing. I have a Soyo I-815EB motherboard(not a B step) and a 1.0A. I've been tempted to stick it in there just to see what happens, but I've also been a little afraid of doing an instant fry of the chip. I wasn't able to read the article on this system, but did they have to do any mods on that board to make it work? I'd love to get this to work here and get a little more milage out of that Soyo board, since it's less than a year old. I had planned on ordering a ST6 next week to replace it, but this surely would be a money saving solution.

Rick
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Old 02-17-02, 07:38 AM   #3
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this is another forum working on that, got a few images and faster / easier to access:
http://forum.hkgolden.com/view.asp?message=159158

the diagram is the pin position looking at the bottom (pin slug) of the CPU, NOT on the socket.
the 2 corners w/o corner pins should then be on your left hand side

it says that the guy can get a C1A be identified as a PIII but the Vcore is 2.2V(!) (for a Tualatin) and the CPU was not burn...

it was not about modifying the MB, but the CPU, they tried not to permanently cut off AN3ĦBAJ3ĦBAK4 but having difficulties insulating such pins

1ĦBAN3ĦBAJ3ĦBAK4 open with mainboard
2ĦBAK4 and AK26 short

it would be safer for CuMine MB using manual jumper setting the Vcore, if the CPU is to be permanently modified that would mean chopping AN3 and AJ3 off, use a fine wire to connect AK4 and AK26, chop off the excess part of AK4 and use a dot of non-conductive expoxy to seal the AK4 connection

Last edited by soil; 02-17-02 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 02-18-02, 11:18 PM   #4
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they have done it, 10 hour stress test passed

http://forum.hkgolden.com/view.asp?message=159158

but only on win98
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Old 02-18-02, 11:55 PM   #5
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Well this is good news.
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Old 02-19-02, 07:15 AM   #6
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I am wondering if you mod chips like this will the be able to work on the fcpga boards also?

Last edited by ol' man; 04-21-02 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 02-19-02, 07:21 AM   #7
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neat if that could be made easy on fcpga I can't read chinese though, I'm bad in electronics and I've a slot1 mobo...

it would be interesting to know what kind of voltage regulation they are using though..
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Old 02-19-02, 08:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by doer
neat if that could be made easy on fcpga I can't read chinese though, I'm bad in electronics and I've a slot1 mobo...

it would be interesting to know what kind of voltage regulation they are using though..
Probably none. The extra voltage to the cache might make the chip more stable but it may also be more unstable also. Seems they are hitting 1.55GHz with the 1.0a but it runs too hot or something. i can't read chinese and babelfish sucks for translations.
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Old 02-19-02, 11:25 AM   #9
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I think that's their final approach: (have fun)

1.an3ĦBaj3ĦBak4 open with mainboard using insulation lacquer (if you don't want to cut it)ĦC
2.vid25mv(ak36) connect to vssĦA get 1.45V VcoreĦC
3.upon boot up in BIOS increase Vcore to around 1.5 V

translation:

1.76V initial attempt,@1.55g ok,stable. but a bit hot...41-51c.
finally:1.65v...@1.45g,temp:33c-43c passed all stress tests(3dmark2001,super pi,cpumark99,hot cpu test,software sandra 2002) very stable.run for 10 hrs. everything fine!
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Old 02-19-02, 08:43 PM   #10
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Ok, but can someone PLEASE Explain this step by step, for the average idiot out there? (I am one of them!).

The pictures on the HK page were clear, but they don't make sense...I don't know what to do or why those pins are circled (except they have to be modified or wired somehow??)

I don't understand ANY of these terms, and as I said in another thread, I have no electronics experience. So can someone please explain VERY carefully exactly what needs to be done and what parts I need? Please remember I am a complete idiot when it comes to this !

I tried to read this thread but all it is doing is giving me a headache

And has anyone here actually tested this? if you have, please explan step by step, very carefully....some of us here have no clue (I'm one of those guys who will go "huh" when asked to unlock an Athlon XP, for example...but i'm willing to learn IF the instructions are clear enough

And......
" 1ĦBAN3ĦBAJ3ĦBAK4 open with mainboard
2ĦBAK4 and AK26 short "

What is this ????? what the heck is " 1iban ......" ? I dont see it anywhere.
and what is meant by "ibak4 and ak26 short "? @@

I know you said it better, with :
"I think that's their final approach: (have fun)

1.an3ĦBaj3ĦBak4 open with mainboard using insulation lacquer (if you don't want to cut it)ĦC
2.vid25mv(ak36) connect to vssĦA get 1.45V VcoreĦC
3.upon boot up in BIOS increase Vcore to around 1.5 V "

but........

open with mainboard?? huh? what does that mean?
is that something on the slotket? (I have a MSI 2.3 master, so I guess I can use that...). What is insulation lacquer?
How do you connect vid25mv to vssia ?
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Old 02-20-02, 10:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Falkentyne


1.an3ĦBaj3ĦBak4 open with mainboard using insulation lacquer (if you don't want to cut it)ĦC
2.vid25mv(ak36) connect to vssĦA get 1.45V VcoreĦC
3.upon boot up in BIOS increase Vcore to around 1.5 V "

if you can't understand these you'd better not risking your CPU and MB, what your need to do is just for (1) insulate these 3 pins from contacting the socket (electrically open) and (2) soldering a wire in the MB connecting 2 pins

for those who like hacking hardware (doing more than using pencil) they'll know what to do

I'm still happy with my CuMine so I'm just letting more people know and so the more daring can continue the experiment
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Old 02-20-02, 11:40 PM   #12
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the 2nd page of the thread (click the hyperlink of the upper or lower right hand side) now has some more photos so it may be easier to understand how the mod is done:

http://forum.hkgolden.com/view.asp?message=159158
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Old 02-21-02, 02:39 AM   #13
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Would this mod work on an Abit BX133?

Would putting silicon on the pins that should be open work?

Last edited by mikyseee; 02-21-02 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 02-21-02, 03:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by mikyseee
Would this mod work on an Abit BX133?

no idea

Would putting silicon on the pins that should be open work?

no idea, I think they finally using the plastic wire wrap of the mouse wire to cover the metal pins (like wearing plastics)
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Old 02-21-02, 09:28 AM   #15
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I wonder if this could be applied to an abit slotket3. It has voltage jumpers that go low enough for Tualatin use.
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Old 02-22-02, 09:19 AM   #16
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I just ordered a 1.0a ($79 shipped, newegg) to try this out.
I'll nailpolish those 3 pins and start with 1.4v on my slotket (the jumpers go even lower than that).
If I cook it, hey it's only $79.
If it works (and I can get to at least 1.4Ghz with it), I've gotten 75-80% of the performance of an xp1700/NW 2.0a on the cheap.

When the Geforce4 ti4200's come out, I'll be golden for a year.
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Old 02-22-02, 11:47 AM   #17
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good luck, check those 2 threads from time to time, and feel free to post there in English. Well supposingly you need to be proficient in using soldering iron and HW hacking in doing that...

and so far they have only been successful in win9x/Me, not 2K/XP, and even for 98se, a Windows re-installation is needed.

BTW I just know that Powleap 370/T (cumine/tualatin) adaptor is available locally for USD35, so you may want to judge whether the risk is worth that amount...

and apparently the chip in the Powerleap adaptor is a logic gate chip and has something to do with voltage selection.

please keep us informed anyway and nice to know somebody is interested in that thread

Last edited by soil; 02-22-02 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 02-22-02, 12:25 PM   #18
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I'll post there too, in english of course.
Powerleap still bundles the adaptor with a 1.2 for $170, or about the same as a 1.2 and a new ST-6.
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Old 02-22-02, 12:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ruiner

Powerleap still bundles the adaptor with a 1.2 for $170...
you mean the slot1/Tualatin adaptor or the 370/Tualatin adaptor?
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Old 02-22-02, 03:00 PM   #20
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1.2 Tualatin to Slot 1 http://www.powerleap.com/Products/iP3T.htm

I have a slot 1 mobo (see sig)

Last edited by Ruiner; 02-22-02 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 02-22-02, 03:31 PM   #21
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Ruiner, I'll be waiting for your news. If you can do it I'll want to try it also.
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Old 02-22-02, 04:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ruiner
If it works (and I can get to at least 1.4Ghz with it), I've gotten 75-80% of the performance of an xp1700/NW 2.0a on the cheap.

75-80% of the NUMBER maybe, but I doubt 75-80% of the actual system performance. I could be wrong though.
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Old 02-22-02, 04:30 PM   #23
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godfodda,

http://www.xbitlabs.com/cpu/celeron1a-oc/

It is pretty surprising how well the Celeratin supports the Ti500 at real resolutions. Of course it gets clobbered at low res, but who plays at 6x4 anymore.
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Old 02-22-02, 07:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ruiner
godfodda,

http://www.xbitlabs.com/cpu/celeron1a-oc/

It is pretty surprising how well the Celeratin supports the Ti500 at real resolutions. Of course it gets clobbered at low res, but who plays at 6x4 anymore.
I don't game, so that part of it makes no sense to me. But that was a very nice link! The bench numbers look much better than I had expected. Unless someone can point me to another site that shows differently, I may have to eat my words.
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Old 02-22-02, 08:10 PM   #25
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I tried this hack on my 1.1A tually last night. Instead of using nail polish or wire wrap insulation to isolate the pins AN3 (DYN_OE), AJ3 (Reset#2), AK4 (VttPWRGD), I just removed them with needle nose pliers (this 1.1A was not a good OC'er so I did not care too much if the mod did not work and it killed the chip). Then I put the CPU into an 815E board that does not support tuallys (AZZA 815EP). This board works fine with P!!! coppermines but I could never get it to post/boot with the tually celertins. Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V).
No luck getting the tually 1.1A to work in the AZZA board. No post/boot, think the problem is with the Bios. But get this: when I put the CPU back into my ST6 board the thing still works! Booted right and loaded Win2K just like it did before. I was not expecting that, thought it would be history after losing those 3 pins. I guess they are not too critical, at least not in the ST6. Actually I was kind of hoping it would be toast so I could make another keychain out of it and order a PIII-S 1.40. Guess I will hang onto this 1.1A a little longer and wait for the PIII-S 1.53 instead.
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Old 02-22-02, 08:17 PM   #26
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should I say congrat ?
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Old 02-22-02, 08:40 PM   #27
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MaxFSB, can you try that on a BX board?
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Old 02-22-02, 08:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by MaxFSB
I tried this hack on my 1.1A tually last night. Instead of using nail polish or wire wrap insulation to isolate the pins AN3 (DYN_OE), AJ3 (Reset#2), AK4 (VttPWRGD), I just removed them with needle nose pliers (this 1.1A was not a good OC'er so I did not care too much if the mod did not work and it killed the chip). Then I put the CPU into an 815E board that does not support tuallys (AZZA 815EP). This board works fine with P!!! coppermines but I could never get it to post/boot with the tually celertins. Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V).
No luck getting the tually 1.1A to work in the AZZA board. No post/boot, think the problem is with the Bios. But get this: when I put the CPU back into my ST6 board the thing still works! Booted right and loaded Win2K just like it did before. I was not expecting that, thought it would be history after losing those 3 pins. I guess they are not too critical, at least not in the ST6. Actually I was kind of hoping it would be toast so I could make another keychain out of it and order a PIII-S 1.40. Guess I will hang onto this 1.1A a little longer and wait for the PIII-S 1.53 instead.
You were supposed to short two other pins.
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Old 02-22-02, 09:57 PM   #29
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I just pick up a refurbished 1.0A celeron for $54 shipped from newegg. I'm gonna try this on my BX133 board when I get it.
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Old 02-22-02, 10:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by ol' man


You were supposed to short two other pins.

"Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V). "

ol'man, are you referring to these?
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