[belinassu]

after taking away the socket cover don't use a drill..

(what a dirty job! )

I find better taking away the connections using a sting

and bending them for seceral times...it's a long job

but the result is very nice..

another guy in a italian forum siply desoldered the connectiond

putting a soldier behinf the slocket on the interested contact

ant pulling the little clips away from the socket tracks...

(forgive my awful english)

he write the work is reversible.....

[ol' man]

Originally posted by sammy
Just a quick happy note - I've been following this and other threads - was going to try catcha22's method when I find my magnifying eyeglasses so I could see these little connections, but when I saw what chosen did, I thought I's try it.

Have a BE6-2 and Abit slotket 3, so started taking off the cover, not easy like and Asus, cracked part of it, then saw how littly the damn connections are, and decided to just drill them. All in all it was quick and dirty and sloppy job and figured if it didn't work it could be because of that.
Used a 1/16" drill, smaller would have been better, but couldn't find that either.

Took a celatin 1.0A out of my Tusi-m where it was running at 133 @1.66v with the vid mod.
Took my celeron 2/1.0G Costa Rica running at 133, 1.85v out of my BE6-2.
One thing I noticed when I took off the retail heatsink, was it showed the cpu slug wasn't flat - worn spots on the edges. Used generic paste, quick and sloppy, stuck the critter in my BE6-2.
Soft menu showed 2.3v but had trouble believing that - slotket jumpers were set to default.
Set the voltage to 1.8 and FSB to 100, to see if it was going to work - damned if it didn't.
Seems to be stable at 127FSB and either 1.66 or 1.9v, won't go higher.
Going to remove slug and do a nice job with better heatsink but will have to wait awhile.
Also going to try this on a generic coppermine slotket, but I'm going to put the drill bit in a visegrip for better control in removint the slotket pin connections.

I love all you guys that are willing to sacrifice your stuff so us semi-chickens can get excited trying it!
Thanks for the thrills.

Here is a vcore sheet for the cumine.



I would be careful, I have fried a cel-t with high vcore set to 1.87v and the HS not touching the IHSless core. It fried in about .25 seconds. I advise you to make sure what your vcore is before removing the IHS. The IHS protects against too high of temps and gives the core a chance to utilize the automatic shutdown feature.

[Xaero_toast]

those of you having trouble getting fsb over 127-131

there were several batches of abit slotket !!!'s with stability issues somewhere over 125. I know, I have an abit slotket !!! that won't do 133 with my P3 1000EB (that's right, even without an overclock going on, it can't hack it).

Anybody tried with a different slotket? When I got an Iwill Slotket II, I was able to hit 150...a better slotket might help with these tualatins

[Ruiner]

Ditto on the Abit slotket issue. Mine has misbehaved for a while, but I don't know what other models have so many jumpers.
I wonder if it's the slotket or the Via chipset that kept me in safe mode only.

[Xaero_toast]

I have an abit slotket III, an Iwill Slotket II, and an Asus s370...

they all have voltage, busspeed, and cpu type (ppga/fcpga) jumpers.

The Iwill is the most stable, with the Asus as a near second YMMV

[chosenfool]

thanks for the tip, ol'man. im just about to do that ak4 to ak26 connection...
actually i have two projects. seeing as the abit slotketIII has been reported to be unstable past 127MHz FSB, ill switch to my Iwill Slocket II (yep, i have both! )
Ill be modding the Iwill with the 3 gored slocket holes for now. I wont be connecting the two aforementioned pins yet, , to see if this stability issue is truly isolated only to the abit slocket, as Xaero_toast and Ruiner said.

here is another way of making the 3 holes bigger so the 3 sleeved pins will fit: USE AN X-ACTO KNIFE. After taking off the slocket top, simply insert the tip of the small exacto blade in the hole and start twisting the knife. This causes the hole to get carved out, and eventually gets big enough for the thick pins to enter. ill post a pic of it as soon as i snap a shot.

Also another way to make the ak4 to ak26 connection is to solder the pins ON THE BACK. Its already been mentioned here, but ill take it a bit further, taking again from ol'man's tip. I used the same IDE wire, cut it to about 2 inches in length, and instead of removing the thin wires from it, i just stripped a small portion on both ends exposing the wires. I then tinned both ends, so whenn i solder it on the back of the slocket it will easily stick. Also this prevents overheating, as it may damage the plastic on the slocket by melting it if youre not careful. (heh, thats funny - worrying about damaging the slocket, when the whole procedure CAN damage the chip and mobo for using an out of spec chip! heh heh! so ironic... )
ill post pics of these as soon as i get back.

[Falkentyne]

Ok guys,
I'm almost feeling comfortable enough for something like this, but I am still confused.

I have an Abit BH6 1.1+MSI slotket 2.3 master
The ONLY thing I know to do so far (on my MSI slotket 2.3) is to nailpolish the following pins:

"AN3", " AJ3" and " AK4 ".

This is the first step, and probably the only one that I can do easily (if I can get nail polish ON the pins in the first place !!).
What is the best way to get the nail polish on these pins, without getting any on the other pins? (remember, I have never SEEN anyone do this in person, of course so I don't even really know the motions....) And is this the correct way to insulate the pins?
I saw some people talking about IDE cable plastic... why is this better instead of nail polish? (I prefer the nail polish trick for now, at least).

The 2nd thing I need to do apparently, is wire AM34 to AK36.
What does this do ? Is it necessary, and what will happen if this is NOT done? Also, what if the wire happens to touch ANY OF THE OTHER pins around this one? won't this short the chip?

The THIRD thing I apparently need to do is wire AK 4 to AK26
What will happen if I do *NOT* do this step? What does this step do, anyway? What is the best way to do this, WITHOUT shorting something? That's a lot of pins that must be crossed....it looks like something can go wrong VERY Easily !

Do I have to risk removing the IHS ? (I really don't want to as I've never done it before).


I also saw another way listed: which might be simpler, AND it gives 1.65v default voltage to the chip, which is good for overclocking

this one involves the insulation of the 3 above pins (AJ3, AN3, AK4), and then wiring the following 4 pins together: AM34, AL35, AK36, and AL37), without doing the AK4 to AK26 long wire. Is this step reliable?
What is the best way to wrap the wires? and again, is there any danger of the wires moving and short circuiting the wrong pins after putting the chip inside the slotket ?

Also, does slotket OR BIOS voltage adjustment do absolutely **NOTHING** at all after this mod?

Again, thanks for any help. Remember, I am a newbie to this: i've NEVER done anything like this before, but am almost feeling comfortable enough to do it.

Hope you can read this carefully and answer carefully for me, one step at a time

[JaY_III]

ak4 to ak26
Some people need it, some do not...
I am going to try without.... (and if i am unstable, i guess i will have to try with)

as for AM34 to AK36....
i would not recomend that.
that is going to drop your voltage down from 1.475 to 1.45
1.475 is my 1.1's defualt voltage)

well thats what page 21 says of intels data sheet
ftp://download.intel.com/design/cele...s/29859602.pdf
(page 61 for pinouts)

I am going to connect VID2 (AL 37) and VID25mV (AK 36) to VSS (AM 34) to give myself a 1.6V default Vcore.
VID 1 AND VID 0 (AM 36 and Al 35) dont need to be connect manualy as they are connected internaly in the packaging.

As for my IHS, well i would make sure the CPU works before you deal with that.... And once you hvae it working on your board, then think about removing it (well thats what I am going to do)

As far as the BIOS able to change the voltage... I think it should be able to still... As i have done voltage hacks on coppermines and the bIOS still lets me select the voltage i want.

[chosenfool]

Well, at 127MHz FSB the Iwill slocket IS MORE STABLE. Ive benchmarked using sandra, and also played swf, avi, divx and high bitrate mpeg files, and encoded a couple of songs to mp3 using EAC and lame3.91, at one point all at the same time, AND NO STALLS AND LOCKUPS! wow....
i guess its the oversized capacitors in the Iwill slocket that makes it so stable compared to the Abit slocket. And i havent connected the AK4 pin to AK26 yet (i feel at this point i wont need it on the Iwill slocket, but defintely will try it on the Abit.) here are pics of what ive done so far.

as i mentioned earlier, here are some of the things i did to make it easier. first was using the IDE cable wire wrap as a sleeve.



to make it easier to slide the wrap over the pin, you may want to use a 40wire IDE ribbon, instead of the 80wire i used (its a beotch to fit!). Or if you want, you can "pre-widen" the hole with a pin to fit it nicely over the pin (what i used with the switch to the iwill slocket).

[chosenfool]

after cutting the sleeve to a nice height, i then widened the holes where the disabled pins are going to fit in, using an X-ACTO KNIFE. What i did was to simply put the tip over the designated holes, and started twisting the knife. This carves out the walls in the holes, creating a wider area for the sleeved pins to fit in.

[JaY_III]

nice pics....
if i get my 1.1 working i'll post a few aswell...

[chosenfool]

lastly, which i havent done fully yet, was to connect the AK4 pin to AK26. This is teh pre-connection pic - i havent soldered it on yet.



as you can see, i used again the IDE cable wire, but this time i just stripped the ends to expose the wire, and then tinned it to make it solder on the pins more easily.



i hope this helps others in getting their chips to work. I know im having LOTS of fun doing this!

[ebc]

Originally posted by chosenfool
lastly, which i havent done fully yet, was to connect the AK4 pin to AK26. This is teh pre-connection pic - i havent soldered it on yet.



as you can see, i used again the IDE cable wire, but this time i just stripped the ends to expose the wire, and then tinned it to make it solder on the pins more easily.



i hope this helps others in getting their chips to work. I know im having LOTS of fun doing this!

your method to connect ak4 to ak26 is wrong,it will cause pc can't boot,the right one is the ak26(pwrgood signal) must be send to the pin of ak4 not ak4's solder and the same time the ak4 must be insulation,do you understand my meaning,sorry for my poor english.

[ebc]

the ak4's solder is connect to ground in old mobo,you do that,cause the ak26(pwrgood signal) also be connect to ground,the ak26 need logic 1 to enable and tell pc power good.

[chosenfool]

Originally posted by ebc


your method to connect ak4 to ak26 is wrong,it will cause pc can't boot,the right one is the ak26(pwrgood signal) must be send to the pin of ak4 not ak4's solder and the same time the ak4 must be insulation,do you understand my meaning,sorry for my poor english.

i think i undestand what you mean, but dont worry, i havent soldered anything yet .

i only placed the stripped wire on the top of the back of the slocket as a "pre-connection" pic, to show my plan. Its a good thing that you caught it, ebc - THANKS! if you havent pointed that out i may have just gone and did it wrong. ill check back as soon as im done.

But for now, my next move is to see how far up past 127MHz the chip can go with the Iwill slocket.
man, this is FUN! (and i am suck a geek! )

[chosenfool]

man, its rock-solid STABLE.

i ran the usual real-life tests (mp3 encoding, high bitrate divx/avi/mpeg playback, partial divx/avi encoding) and its still ticking! i also ran the benchmark in sandra, and ill post it after this. The real test is if it can run thru 3dmark2001SE completely. Im not gonna do that yet, since i really dont game that much anymore, plus i dont have it installed yet (yep, that would help )

[chosenfool]

gotta love those scores!

[Falkentyne]

Nice scores.

So ALL you've done is simply insulate those 3 pins for the first step, and set the default voltage on your slotket to 1.6v --this is the biggie, otherwise it will be 2.1v, (or whatever) and **that's it **? no wire wraps or anything?

Also, what about the nail polish trick to insulate? is that not recommended or something?

[belinassu]

here you are a working way to connect AK4 to AK26, using
conductive paint directly un cpu pin side to make a new track

on my celatin it works good

[chosenfool]

Originally posted by Falkentyne
Nice scores.

So ALL you've done is simply insulate those 3 pins for the first step, and set the default voltage on your slotket to 1.6v --this is the biggie, otherwise it will be 2.1v, (or whatever) and **that's it **? no wire wraps or anything?

Also, what about the nail polish trick to insulate? is that not recommended or something?

yep, just insulate the 3 pins. then once it boots, adjust the voltage thru the BIOS, that is, IF YOU HAVE A SLOCKET WITH ADJUSTABLE VOLTAGE. I havent gotten this to work on a generic FCPGA adapter (i have 4 adapters, 1 IWill, 1 Abit, and 2 generic adapters).

as far as connecting the AK4 and the AK26 pins, what i did was tofirst take the sleeve of AK4, and again use a 1 1/2 inch IDE cable wire, strip the ends to expose the wire, and "round" the ends around a bobby pin. this creates a round hole to easily fit over the processor pins. I then "lassoed' over the AK4 pin, then inserted back the sleeve, then ran the wire across to AK26, and then lasso it over the pin also. Doing this with an insulated wire with just the ends stripped, it helps in insulating against other pins that may come in contact with the wire. Also, this is one way i avoided having to use nail polish.

This works really well, as im right now typing this at 130MHz FSB (1570MHz) on the ABIT SLOCKET, with one other interesting adjustment - the "in queue depth" is now set at 8, instead of 1. This makes one HELLUVA speed boost, as i couldnt open fast folders with a lot of files in it before when it was set to 1, and boot up time is maybe 4-6 seconds faster with setting at 8. Pretty much what belinassu encountered before he did the connection trick.

the only thing is that since i didnt use any conductive pen like he did, or use one thin strand of wire and used nail polish for insulation, the processor is raised about the thickness of the wire. Its really not an issue for me, as all i did was to put another wire with the same thickness on the opposite side of the slocket to balance the height. I then locked the slocket in place, and fired it up.

[belinassu]

here u r two close view of AK4 and AK26 after the painting





be careful to not connect any other pins with the paint!

[Ruiner]

I first tried nailpolish, but it kept scraping off in the slotket, so I went with wire insulation. Instead of IDE cable I used a strand of phone cable (the 4 conductor kind).

I don't think jumping 4 to 26 will work on the slotket, since 4 is insulated from slotket by nailpolish/wire cover. It has to be done on the cpu.

My abit slotket wouldn't make it past safe mode at even default speeds, and even after a clean repart/format/install of win2k. Since I could run sandra and stability test at 133 in safe mode, I think Darth Via may be at work here.

For wire, go to Rad shack. They have 26G enamel insulated wire (called magnet coil wire). You scrape off the enamel at the ends to wrap it.

[chosenfool]

heres what i did for the AK4 to AK26 connection:


http://chosenfool1.homestead.com/files/ak4toak26a.jpg

its weird cuz its rock solid stable at 130MHz FSB, but any other sppeds higher than that, at any other voltages, it just craps out. The best, lowest possible voltage for this chip to be stable at is at 1.7V, and at a healthy 37C temp. I guess i hit the sweet spot for this specific chip.

[ol' man]

Not sur eif it matters but all the traces on the chip are copper. You replaced that with the less conducting Aluminum. Not sure if it matters but it may.

[Ruiner]

I spent all morning trying to get my 1.0a to boot on my abit slotket/via mobo, using the same method that got me into safe mode before. I could not get past DMI verification on this attempt (and I rechecked my wire wraps and pin covers).

Worse, when I was putting my p3 back in the slotket, the ak4 pin came off. So now I have a p3 keychain and a mobo/slotket combo that won't play well with this mod.

I will dig up another slotket and give it one last shot. If that fails, I may either grab an ST6 and use this 1.0a or just go p4 1.6a/DDR. I suppose if I could pick up a cheap BX board that would work with the mod I might try that.

[Xaero_toast]

Originally posted by ol' man
Not sur eif it matters but all the traces on the chip are copper. You replaced that with the less conducting Aluminum. Not sure if it matters but it may.

it's the core that contains copper in place of aluminum...the traces in/on the organic substrate are probably made of the same stuff they were with the coppermines

[sammy]

My Update-
First, thanks Ol'man for the advice about not removing the slug - good reason. I started fiddling with doing it but mine looks well anchored down and didn't want to chance screwing up the traces. I used a flat file, yes a flat file!, to flatten all the edges on the slug. It was evident by the rubbing marks on the heatsink that the edges were high. I figure the effect of any scratches, or lower than flat around the edges are negligible compared to whatever amount of out of contact they were causing at the center.

I messed around with drilling, desoldering, etc, with a couple of generic slotkets - without volts jumpers - and decided there is no clean way to modify the three pins on the slotket, even though my first drilling on the Abit slotket 3 works great. After seeing that it works on my BE6-2 without these three pins in contact, I saw no reason not to remove the pins from the cpu. I don't plan on putting it back in my one Tualatin board since I can run it on BX. The two interior pins were more stubborn than I expected.

The generic slotket did not work - would not even boot.

I don't understand some of the problems being mentioned.
I started with BE6-2, slotket with a Cel2/1.0G running stable at 10x133, and win98 on this machine.
I replaced with the mod'd Abit slotket3 and with Cel2/1.0A
Boot was normal- the first bios volt was off a little,
but after setting it 1.85v, and FSB to 100, it worked fine and stable in SiSoft burn in.
Final settings were 1.75v and 131FSB
Then I tested it with an Asus S370DL-133 slotket, set for coppermine and default vots, and with the same retail heatsink and it works fine - stable in Sandra cpu benchmark burn-in for over 2 hours so far, at 10x133@1.75v.
MBprobe and sisoft report the same volts as bios settings, ans sandra reports it as a celeron 10x133 and 256kb cache, bios reports it as a Pentium3@1332, so everything is really normal - no problems whatsoever.
These are my current Sisoft Standard v2001.5.8.11 benchmarks
CPU benchmark Dhrystone 3734 - Whetstone 1781
Memory bench marks - Integer ALU 496 - Float FPU 514
CPU Multi-media benchmarks Integer SSE 7238 - Floating Point SSE 8985

Does anyone see a reason to do any more mods than just removing the three pins? I don't know if there would be more to be gained.

I'm going to try an older version coppermine slotket, when I find it.
Thanks again to all - I'm just tickled pink with the results!

[chosenfool]

sammy:

youre right in saying that the generic slockets did not work - i cant make the two generic ones i have to boot at all, even with the 1.5V voltage short, the 3 pins covered, and the AK4 and the AK26 short.
i wonder what it is that we need to do to make the generic slockets work...if anyone has used ageneric slocket and made it work, can you verify what you did? im curious to know what i may have missed.

In summary, Its pretty straight forward with the slockets with voltage selectors(and this is the VERY FIRST POST of this thread too) :
1) connect AK4 to AK26 first on the CPU.
2) cover the 3 pins mentioned.
3) (optional) jumper the slockets with the appropriate voltage for the tualatin (if you dont have a voltage selector), to lower the default voltage.

im set, and im still psyched about the mod. Currently i already have offers to BUY the modded chip and adapter...i may yet sell it, but for now, i'll bask in the glory first.

[JaY_III]

this generic thing is really starting to bother me.
As i ONLY have genaric slotkets...
And i cant seem to get the 1st post
It has AUTO for voltgae (so CPU defualt controlls, and BIOS)
And 66/100/133/AUto for my FSB... So the BIOS controls it.

(have everything on AUTO so my BIOS will controll)

The slotket is very stable with coppermines, never had a problem.....
But if i have to buy a new one (damb)
what DO YOU have WORKING???

[martinus]

my first post in these forums...

Anyway, I do wonder where the information about VID4 came from initially. If you study the data sheets, true, VID4 needs to be pulled to get into the lower range of voltages. However, it has only ever been a slot1-pin. It has never existed in socket370.

In the PPGA data sheet, pin AK36 is specified as Vss. Same in the FCPGA spec.

so what's the point of connecting AK36 to anything at all?

[belinassu]

Originally posted by martinus
my first post in these forums...

Anyway, I do wonder where the information about VID4 came from initially. If you study the data sheets, true, VID4 needs to be pulled to get into the lower range of voltages. However, it has only ever been a slot1-pin. It has never existed in socket370.

In the PPGA data sheet, pin AK36 is specified as Vss. Same in the FCPGA spec.

so what's the point of connecting AK36 to anything at all?

infact vid4 seems to be connected to vss yet (by the socket)
but i get more stable system sonnecting it also to vss pin

this seems a paradox...

[chosenfool]

ok, i did my first few rounds of 3DMark2001SE.
at 1.70V it freezes.
at 1.75V, its stable and finishes thru the whole benchmark.

at any rate, 3dmark2k1SE is still videocard dependent - only when i upgraded the drivers did it have significant rise in the score. The CPU has little (or not as much) to do with the increase (as compared to a previous mark i had with a 1.2GHzTbird@1.4GHz). The benchmark at least stresses the CPU and the videocard, and it tests its stability. Next up, quake3 demo, and VulpineGL mark.

[Ruiner]

Good news guys!!
I fiddled with the bios, and got BOTH chips to work. I disabled the bios virus check and it booted! Does this mean I have a virus?

Well, anyway, I made it into regular windows mode with the 1.0a, so far as high as 135 fsb. I have tried higher, but windows locks up on startup, and I've tried Vcore as high as 1.75. I'm pretty sure it's either my slotket or mobo....I used to hit similar walls with my p3.

I've run a few sandra benchmarks. It seems only sandra reports cpu temp and fsb accurately. Both bios and cpuID get it wrong. Do I have to reinstall MBM??

Another strange thing, I got a BSOD when trying to boot at 66fsb (to do a burn in). I upped to 133 and it went right up.

I'll do a burn in at 1.75v, hopefully @66fsb (maybe safe mode), but I don't expect to get anything higher, at least not with this slotket and mobo. I may try to dig up an iwill slotket.

I'll take some screenies and find a place to host them. How do you take screenshots in cpuid and sandra?

[chosenfool]

Originally posted by Ruiner
Good news guys!!
I fiddled with the bios, and got BOTH chips to work. I disabled the bios virus check and it booted! Does this mean I have a virus?

Well, anyway, I made it into regular windows mode with the 1.0a, so far as high as 135 fsb. I have tried higher, but windows locks up on startup, and I've tried Vcore as high as 1.75. I'm pretty sure it's either my slotket or mobo....I used to hit similar walls with my p3.

I've run a few sandra benchmarks. It seems only sandra reports cpu temp and fsb accurately. Both bios and cpuID get it wrong. Do I have to reinstall MBM??

Another strange thing, I got a BSOD when trying to boot at 66fsb (to do a burn in). I upped to 133 and it went right up.

I'll do a burn in at 1.75v, hopefully @66fsb (maybe safe mode), but I don't expect to get anything higher, at least not with this slotket and mobo. I may try to dig up an iwill slotket.

I'll take some screenies and find a place to host them. How do you take screenshots in cpuid and sandra?

congrats!!!

you can try to sign up for homestead.com, for like 14 days they host for free. not sure after that. thats what i use for my pics. or if your ISP has webspace for you when you signed up for them, you can use that too.

[mikyseee]

Get WCPUID version 3.0f and it should detect your fsb and cpu correctly.

[tensop]

Hi all, i've decided to do some information gathering

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...threadid=73195

Please reply if you've got a Tualatin based cpu working
this way we can setup a database to see what its working in.

[Flu!d]

Sandra and cpuID screenshots! Please!

[belinassu]

have a look , I'm so happy!!!

[martinus]

well, I've done the mod today, twice actually. First I did my Asus slotkey. I opened the socket and took out AN3, AJ3, AK4. No connection between AK4 and AK26! Voltage selection is handled by jumpers on the slotkey (vid pins). Runs like a charm in my AOpen AX6BC Pro - whereas the powerlep adaptor seems to be incompatible.

I got to 133 FSB at 1.5V, but my Matrox G400 starts crapping out at that speed, so 129 is the highest stable FSB at the moment. The cpu is obviosly capable of so much more!

Next I modded my trusty Asus CUBX system, which I know to do 150 FSB stable. Same method. Unfortunately I miscounted and took out a Vcc pin. Annoying, but there are enough left, so no worries.

The celery 1000A did not want to run in the CUBX. I then proceeded to connect CMOS PWRGOOD with VTT PWRGOOD, using wrapping wire. I don't know, maybe it was too ghetto, or maybe it just doesn't want to play. No go.

Anyway, I'll have to get a new video card and try to get the AOpen board higher...

[Ruiner]

here's cpuID at least. How do I get sandra screenshots?

[ol' man]

Originally posted by martinus
well, I've done the mod today, twice actually. First I did my Asus slotkey. I opened the socket and took out AN3, AJ3, AK4. No connection between AK4 and AK26! Voltage selection is handled by jumpers on the slotkey (vid pins). Runs like a charm in my AOpen AX6BC Pro - whereas the powerlep adaptor seems to be incompatible.

I got to 133 FSB at 1.5V, but my Matrox G400 starts crapping out at that speed, so 129 is the highest stable FSB at the moment. The cpu is obviosly capable of so much more!

Next I modded my trusty Asus CUBX system, which I know to do 150 FSB stable. Same method. Unfortunately I miscounted and took out a Vcc pin. Annoying, but there are enough left, so no worries.

The celery 1000A did not want to run in the CUBX. I then proceeded to connect CMOS PWRGOOD with VTT PWRGOOD, using wrapping wire. I don't know, maybe it was too ghetto, or maybe it just doesn't want to play. No go.

Anyway, I'll have to get a new video card and try to get the AOpen board higher...

It would seem that many can get the slockets to work if they are not generic but when you do not connect ak4 to ak26 your performence and OC'ability takes a hit. If i remeber correctly earlier in this thread someone could only hit 133fsb and queue depth of 1. This was before they connected ak4 to ak26. Once they did this it OC'd much better and they could take it to queue depth of 4 or 8 not sure which. Anyway their mem scores were just like they should be on a BX board.

[martinus]

Originally posted by ol' man


It would seem that many can get the slockets to work if they are not generic but when you do not connect ak4 to ak26 your performence and OC'ability takes a hit.

well, so far I cannot verify that. also not obvious from the meaning of the signal. but I'll keep an eye on it.

[Romeo]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by belinassu
[B]have a look , I'm so happy!!!

Ciao belinassu
I'm Italian as you are
I'm interested to mount a tualatin on a Cusl2-c, but I don't know if is better to remove the copper shim on the core, or leave it in place..
I've a Waterblock cooler and use artic silver.. I think that whitout the copper shim wuold be easier achieve lower temperatures
What's your experience?
And what the method you've used to remove the shim?
Thanks all
and sorry for my bad english

Romeo

[JaY_III]

Coulnt get a generic to work...
going to pick up another slotket today hopefully...
see if i can get the new one to work

[mikyseee]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Romeo
[B]

Originally posted by belinassu
have a look , I'm so happy!!!

Ciao belinassu
I'm Italian as you are
I'm interested to mount a tualatin on a Cusl2-c, but I don't know if is better to remove the copper shim on the core, or leave it in place..
I've a Waterblock cooler and use artic silver.. I think that whitout the copper shim wuold be easier achieve lower temperatures
What's your experience?
And what the method you've used to remove the shim?
Thanks all
and sorry for my bad english

Romeo

If you are gonna be water cooling, I would leave the IHS on the core. Since you really don't know how much presure to use to secure the waterblock, you might tighten it too much and crush the core. And since the core is small, it could be harder to get the waterblock perfectly flat on the core. I am watercooling also and these are the reasons why I left the IHS on.

[wirehead]

"Did you rip some pins out and not set the vcore to 1.5? WIth the vid pin 25 connected the vcore wil be 2.1v. Maybe you cooked yer cel-t's."

Thanks ol'man for the reply... All of the pins on the CPU are intact. However, I did noticed that all of the VID pins are opened (20K ohm) up internally in the CPU after I plugged it in the sloket. The VID25m (AK36) is physically connected to Vss( ground) on this sloket. Are you suggesting that I should open this pin to the slocket as well???

Sorry for the late reply as I spend the entire weekend setting up a 1.8a on the Ga-8irxp. By the way, this MB so far don't like to be overclock. I was told that Gigabyte is working on a BIOS fix right now... Other than that, It's seems to be solid.

[sammy]

Just tried it on a MSI MS6905 Master Slotket -
All the same setup as before - same cpu with three pins removed.
Before I shut down the last time before the change, I set the FSB to 100 to give better boot odds- set the slotket jumpers to 1.7v -
booted into the bios - set the voltage to 1.75 and rebooted.
Seemed to take too long to get into windows, so I rebooted and got the
safe mode menu, but chose normal and boot gave a windows protection, which I learned to expect occasionally as normal, went back to bios and found I hadn't changed the 1/4 PCI divider, so did that and set and set FSB to 112 - booted into safe mode - rebooted normal
went back to the bios and saw the "in order que depth had change to 1"
I set the FSB to 133, 1.75v, and booted normal -
went back and change the que depth to 8 - rebooted normal
Ran the sandra cpu bench burn in for several hours with no problems.
So this slotket works fine for this cpu mod.

Another reason I finally decided to just remove the three cpu pins was that even though the cpu cost a little more, they are plentiful, and it appears the good slotkets aren't anymore. Wouldn't be surprised if Abit, Asus, and MSI, don't even make them now.

To sum up my experience to date:
BE6-2
Celeron/Tualatin 1.0A with AN3, AJ3, AK4 pins removed on the cpu
Retail heatsink
Win98 - non SE
Abit Slotket!!!, Asus S370DL-133, and MSI 6905 Master
All of these ran stable at 10x133@1.75v

I believe they would run as well on a BX6r2 up to 133FSB.
I would try it on mine but my BE6-2 is sitting on top of it, and
behind my K6-3+450/600, so will probably be awhile. I already have
a Celeron 1.0G@10x133 in it, so not much to gain. Never could get the BX6-2 to run above 133FSB.

For those who might not know, Tom's, the original B21 Doctor, hardware has an article
on how to convert a pre-coppermine PPGA to FC-PGA, by just
connecting AH4 and X4, and disconnecting AM2
Here is the article:
FC-PGA Pentium III on Celeron PGA370/Slot1 Converter Cards
http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/00q1/000229/
I'm going to try that next on an pre FC-PGA Asus S370,
and then maybe on an MSI.

Then I'm going to try my celatin 1.2A and use a better than
retail heatsink.

Has anyone compared benchmarks with this super cool mod for BX,
with the same cpu's on a Tualatin board like the Tusl??
I'm really curious to see how they compare.
I wouldn't be surprised if they are better on a BX.

Hope you all are having as much fun as I am!

Note to Catcha22: I like your site, but takes forever to load and couldn't get on to register.

[wirehead]

Thanks Sammy for the encourging news on the msi sloket...

[belinassu]

here u r a digest about all the works i did
to get my tualatin 10A to work @1500 on th ABIT BX133

don't laugh too much

http://digilander.iol.it/grandecigno/Tua_BX_41.htm

[sammy]

Hey guys - just want to pass this on.
I apologize if someone else already brought it up
.
I mentioned on a previous post, that I found my Tualatin 1.0A was high on the edges of the slug, and I used a file to get it flat around the edges.

I just opened my new Tualatin 1.2A. First thing I did was place the slug against the heatsink I'm going to use, and wiggled it while pressing - Wow, it's really high, and would definitely keep the center of the slug off the heatsink by some amount. Maybe Intel thinks people will use the thermal pad they put on their heatsinks - who does that?

Any way, although this is just my second one, I'll bet most all of them them have this problem.
Think it is worth checking yours.