little help on 1055t

Hey, i was trying to oc my 1055t littlebit.

I got asrock 890gx extreme 3 as my motherboard and scythe ninja 3 as cooler.
idle temps are somewhere around 30ish and my max on stock clocks was 49C after during like just 10mins of prime.

I dont know any idea what to disable from bios, all iv done is disable turbo.
also is it normal that my core voltage is around 1.3 in idle at 800mhz and goes upto 1.39 at load, also it jumps around ALOT, even at idle it may stay for a while at 1.26 something then go 1.34 max it has gone was 1.39 etc.. That 49C on prime was pretty high i think as i havent done any oc yet? but i guess thats just why because volts vent to 1.39? All im looking at is something 3.2GHz just for a start, i havent oced cpus yet. Iv been reading alot of guides.

I saw spread spectrum and CPu load line calibration when i was at BIOS do these have to be disapled

thats it

Disable Cool N Quiet and C1E in bios. They are power saving, down-throttling technologies that lower CPU speed and voltage at idle. Your load temps are already rather high as you anticipate overclocking. The main thing would be to increase your CPU multiplier and the CPU voltage to get a higher CPU frequency. Monitor temps as you do so, however, to keep core temps limited to mid 50s C under load. And we are talking about core temps, not CPU (socket) temps. If 49 C is your CPU temp and not your core temp that may be very good as CPU temps are typically higher than core temps with large, aftermarket coolers. HWMonitor is a good temp and voltage monitoring program. To get 3.2 ghz just move the CPU multiplier to 16x.

Concerning temps, what is your case ventilation like? Make and model of case? Number, size and location of fans?

trents said:

Disable Cool N Quiet and C1E in bios. They are power saving, down-throttling technologies that lower CPU speed and voltage at idle. Your load temps are already rather high as you anticipate overclocking. The main thing would be to increase your CPU multiplier and the CPU voltage to get a higher CPU frequency. Monitor temps as you do so, however, to keep core temps limited to mid 50s C under load. And we are talking about core temps, not CPU (socket) temps. If 49 C is your CPU temp and not your core temp that may be very good as CPU temps are typically higher than core temps with large, aftermarket coolers. HWMonitor is a good temp and voltage monitoring program. To get 3.2 ghz just move the CPU multiplier to 16x.

Concerning temps, what is your case ventilation like? Make and model of case? Number, size and location of fans?

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dunno where that c1e is in bios but iv got antec p183 case and just the top fan and one in the back, also got side panel atm off coz my gtx 480 goes like 90 if i have it on . Yes and that 49C was the cpu temp cores went to 34C.
Also the multiplier is locked at 14x. Just looking for a 3.2GHz shouldnt i achieve that just by turning some things of and incease fsb little bit? coz iv seen many get 3.5 just by turning off things leaving everything auto and up fsb to 250.

Sorry, I forgot the 1055t isn't the black edition. Yes, just raise the fsb (aka, "CPU Frequency" and "HT Reference") in 5 mhz increments while running Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes each time. When you can no longer pass the 20 minute test, increase the CPU voltage until it becomes stable again. If you are already running the memory at max rated speed then you should start it a lower speed to begin with as increasing the fsb will speed the ram up too. So, e.g. if the ram is rated at 1600, start it at 1333. Monitor core temps along the way and limit to about 55 C. That should be enough to give you a good start. When you think you have about reached the overclock wall, run a long Prime95 blend test (several hours) to confirm stability and make adjustments as necessary if it fails the long stress test. Towards the higher end of the overclock, give the CPU-NB a couple of small bumps over stock. That helps with stability.

Note: If you have to take the side panel off to keep the system cool, you need more fans. Ventilation is not what it should be. What are your room temps?

trents said:

Sorry, I forgot the 1055t isn't the black edition. Yes, just raise the fsb (aka, "CPU Frequency" and "HT Reference") in 5 mhz increments while running Prime95 blend test for 20 minutes each time. When you can no longer pass the 20 minute test, increase the CPU voltage until it becomes stable again. If you are already running the memory at max rated speed then you should start it a lower speed to begin with as increasing the fsb will speed the ram up too. So, e.g. if the ram is rated at 1600, start it at 1333. Monitor core temps along the way and limit to about 55 C. That should be enough to give you a good start. When you think you have about reached the overclock wall, run a long Prime95 blend test (several hours) to confirm stability and make adjustments as necessary if it fails the long stress test.

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just one question, C1E is enchange halt state?

and as im just upping 400MHz is it really necessary to play with rams and HT's etc, dont really wanna mess things up lol.

Edit: it looks funny but i had cool&quiet on, temps 32C while at internet or so, disabled it and now at 28C, Voltages were jumping from 1.26 to 1.38 now i have 1.36at default and it goes to 1.37. Little bit wierd but i think ill keep reading more before doing anything -.-

one last question.. When i put my comp on the Core voltage of cpu is 1.36 if i dont do anything to stress the cpu but when i run prime it goes to 1.4. why? why cant it stay at 1.36 o.o

turbo is off, c&q is off and c1e

Ive got the 1055t also. I can post my numbers for 3.6 and 4.05. With your current temps though i would suggest finding a way to keep that proc of yours cooler. Your idle temps are my temps when oc-ed and overvolted.

My idle temps (stock) can go as low as 13c to 19c and max is 28c. If i oc my cpu to 4ghz my idle is 24c and max is 43c. I was running inline resisters that caped my fans rpm to 1600. Ive since upgraded to 2x ultra kaze 3000rpm without resisters (cause the wires reach now lol) my max oc temps will be lower than what i posted (havent oc-ed since replacing the fans).

Besides the good info posted by others i would suggest just raising your fsb till you cant load windows and leave the volts alone for now. You should be able to hit 3.6 without any problems without touching your volts............be sure to lower the dram multi or try to keep it close to stock ram speeds as you go. This will find your cpu max oc on stock volts and you may find that that is enough.

I would be worried about the heat though....its abit high for stock.....add some fans in the right spots will help.

Post if you want the numbers and ill place them in this thread.

epu said:

just one question, C1E is enchange halt state?

and as im just upping 400MHz is it really necessary to play with rams and HT's etc, dont really wanna mess things up lol.

Edit: it looks funny but i had cool&quiet on, temps 32C while at internet or so, disabled it and now at 28C, Voltages were jumping from 1.26 to 1.38 now i have 1.36at default and it goes to 1.37. Little bit wierd but i think ill keep reading more before doing anything -.-

one last question.. When i put my comp on the Core voltage of cpu is 1.36 if i dont do anything to stress the cpu but when i run prime it goes to 1.4. why? why cant it stay at 1.36 o.o

turbo is off, c&q is off and c1e

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I'm not sure what C1E stands for.

Voltage changes from bios to idle in Windows to load in Windows are normal because you are changing the demand on the CPU, causing more heat which causes more electrical resistance. Also, many motherboards are set up to compensate either manually or automatically for vdrop (voltage drop at idle) and vdroop (voltage drop under load).

If you want to put minimum effort into this and only change the fsb (which is the HT Reference, by the way) then its up to you but you're overclock may not be stable, especially under heavy load. The setting mods I am suggesting will not endanger your computer and you can always reset things to stock with the F9 key in bios or with the cmos jumper.

It seems you have been given plenty of support on the O.C side of things so I may as well shed some light on C1E.

C1E does stand for "Enhanced Halt State", this does a little more than simply throttle down the CPU cores, it also decreases power consumption to the entire chipset, RAM speeds are decreased, HT Links halted.

Unfortunately I only wrote what I know, I have not exactly got to understanding this info 100%, I can only assume it decreased power consumption to a point that the computer is barely even on. Whether this occurs during an ACPI mode or during low usage I am not sure, maybe ACPI has effects during low usage?

Either way, I didn't create it, I don't use, I don't think I ever needed to learn about C1E's meaning or purpose lol

Haha bumping this old thread again. so today i decided to ATLEAST do some OCing . Upped from 2.8 to 3.2, 200FSB -> 230FSB. What is still dont quite understand that i've put my cpu volts to manual 1.35, but still Hwmonitor reports lowerst 1.36. And when i runned up prime it jumped all the way to 1.48. Some ppl told me this is Load line calibration or so. Ran 3h+ prime blennd CPU temp maxed at 58C, and cores at 43C or so. But im sure its because of 1.48 volts. ( bit overkill for a 3.2GHz right? ). Also does upping FSB ALSO increase Ht Link & NBfrew, coz both jumped from 2000 to 2300. I heard that Htlink should be keeping near 2000, so im gonna adjust that tomorrow. and i also dropped my ram divider running atm 766 so thats 1533 right?

Yes, upping the HT Reference also makes the HT Link and the CPUNB or "NB" (for short) go higher as well. The HT Link does not like to go very much higher than 2000 so adjust the multiplier downwardly on that parameter to keep it between 2000-2200 mhz. The CPUNB can tolerate more, maybe about 2800 mhz but you will need to up the CPUNB voltage to 1.225-1.3 to support that.

Yes, you are correct about the ram divider.

trents said:

Yes, upping the HT Reference also makes the HT Link and the CPUNB or "NB" (for short) go higher as well. The HT Link does not like to go very much higher than 2000 so adjust the multiplier downwardly on that parameter to keep it between 2000-2200 mhz. The CPUNB can tolerate more, maybe about 2800 mhz but you will need to up the CPUNB voltage to 1.225-1.3 to support that.

Yes, you are correct about the ram divider.

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great

Is it ok to keep all NB etc voltages at AUTO?, as im not gonna overclock anymore for a while, only playing Bf3 atm and its so gpu dependant.

As long as the system is stable don't increase any voltages. You always want to get by with the smallest amount of voltage necessary to maintain stability.

Hmm i couldnt find how to change that Htlink back to 2000.. there was HT Bus and HT Width options but i dunno which to change . Also putting that LLC from auto to normal fixed the voltage problem, now maxing out 1.4 in prime instead of 1.48

I'm guessing it would be the HT bus. Probably it will be expressed as a multiplier (5x, 6x . . . 10x). Don't mess with the HT width. That's not it.

trents said:

I'm guessing it would be the HT bus. Probably it will be expressed as a multiplier (5x, 6x . . . 10x). Don't mess with the HT width. That's not it.

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The name was HTspeed, yeah and it had multipliers, now running 2070 Htlink, i guess its okay . This forum has been awesome help. Tyvm Trents now i know how to continue, it isnt so hard afterall, just requires time.

Yep, time and patience. Run 20 minute Prime95 blend tests between setting changes and monitor core temps with HWMonitor each time. When core temps are beginning to exceed 55 C. or core voltage is beginning to exceed 1.5v then you are running up against some barriers. Start test for a minimum of 2 hours Prime at that point. HTLink should wind up in the 2200 mhz range and NB in the 2800 mhz range when all is said and done.

Well once again, im trying to oc some more, running atm at 3.2GHZ with 1.36-1.39 on CPU, 2.3GHZ on NB @ 1.15V, Ht link at 2070. Iv been trying to get 3.5GHZ on cpu with 1.425V, NB at stock (2GHZ) with 1.15V. But i just cant get it to work, i usually get to " Welcome " or to desktop where it immediately bsods. Ideas? http://aijaa.com/6Xln6J
http://aijaa.com/fUDYpw , Cpuz shows voltage for memory 1.5V, but they should be 1.65V, and its at AUTO in bios atm.

Here's one major problem I see with your current settings: Your HT Link at 2070 is higher than your NB, a no no with all AMD CPUs that predate the FX Bulldozer series. Guaranteed instability if you do.

trents said:

Here's one major problem I see with your current settings: Your HT Link at 2070 is higher than your NB, a no no with all AMD CPUs that predate the FX Bulldozer series. Guaranteed instability if you do.

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sorry if i was unclear but atm i have 3.2GHZ on processor, 2.3GHz on nb and htlink 2070. when i try 3.5ghz on processor, i put NB back to 2ghz and also htlink back to 2ghz. Just trying to OC the processor to 3.5 then focus on NB, but i just cant get it to work.

Okay, a picture is worth a 1000 words still. Please download and install CPU-z. Then run the program and post back with pics attached of CPU-z tabs: CPU, Memory and SPD. That will give us snapshots of several important frequencies, memory timings and a couple of important voltages. This is much preferable to link such as you supplied back in post #17. Make it as easy as possible on those helping you. Speaking of your links, I think your problem with instability is being caused by the fact that your ram is running about 100 mhz faster than it is rated for. Don't forget, when you overclock with the FSB the ram speeds up with the CPU. If your ram is rated for 1333 and you start it out there you will quickly exceed it's capability as you increase the FSB. So what you need to do is go into bios and set the ram to the 1066 divider instead of 1333 divider. Also keep in mind that CPU-z reports the ram frequency at half of what you would expect because it is reporting the DDR bus speed not the DDR3 speed rating.

To attach a pic, first crop and save the image to disc using Snipping Tool in Windows Accessories. Please crop the individual images. We don't need shots of your whole desktop which sometimes makes the images to small to read the values they contain. Then click on Go Advanced at the bottom of any new post window which will load the advanced post window. Then find the little paperclip tool at the top and click on it which will load the file browser/upload tool. The rest will be obvious.

Also, its time you created a "Sig" so that your system info travels with every post you make. This is a common courtesy on the forum and makes helping you much easier for those trying to help. As threads get long the info the OP provides about the system gets buried back in the early posts. To create a Sig, click in Quick Links at the top of the page and then Edit Signature. Please include info about your system component make and models for CPU, motherboard, cooler, PSU, ram, video card and case plus OS version.