Simple effective H50 mods

I am sure the most obvious is adding a larger radiator and reservoir.

What about a water chiller? What about one of those little heat plates?

I know a custom rig would be better, but I want to get creative on the cheap

Thanks

Heat plate, known as a TEC aka peltier. A TEC cools by removing the heat and transferring it to the cooling side.

You get a TEC that can cool 100 watts, it also generates an EXTRA 100+ watts of heat. Thus your CPU is cooler, but you have to DOUBLE the cooling side. Meaning the H50 will have to work twice as hard, the TEC will go into thermal runaway and melt your stuff. Plus you might need another PSU just to run the TEC it's amp requirements are so high.

So, nope. And you need a TEC that cools a LOT more. Thats custom copper plate work and years of experiance.

You should read in our sub ambient forum and over at Xtreme systems forums to learn before you leap. This is very common for new folks to assume it's easy. It's really complicated and for sure not cheap.

Conumdrum said:

Heat plate, known as a TEC aka peltier. A TEC cools by removing the heat and transferring it to the cooling side.

You get a TEC that can cool 100 watts, it also generates an EXTRA 100+ watts of heat. Thus your CPU is cooler, but you have to DOUBLE the cooling side. Meaning the H50 will have to work twice as hard, the TEC will go into thermal runaway and melt your stuff. Plus you might need another PSU just to run the TEC it's amp requirements are so high.

So, nope. And you need a TEC that cools a LOT more. Thats custom copper plate work and years of experiance.

You should read in our sub ambient forum and over at Xtreme systems forums to learn before you leap. This is very common for new folks to assume it's easy. It's really complicated and for sure not cheap.

Click to expand...

bah humbug. What about a water chiller? like those found for aquariums?

http://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-Thermoelectric-Aquarium-Chiller/dp/B0006JKO6U

or something cheaper

http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-150A.htm

This is as low as I would go for your needs. I looked at this in the past and with research I would need the 1000 watt one, look at my sig.

And a PC watercooling loop doesn't have high enough flow rate to use this. And you need a larger amount of water to buffer the heatload spikes.

So you need a 20 gallon insulated sealed container with a seperate heat exchanger (rad) inside the 20 gallon container (think a VERY good ice chest).

The one you chose is for a TINY micro auarium where the water needs to be kept at a bit cooler than hot room temps. There is NO heat added. I don't think you understand how much heat your CPU creates and how much power (wattage) and heat dissipation you need.

You should just buy this and sell the H50. You learned your lesson, be glad it was only $43.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rxwak1.html

Conumdrum said:

http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-150A.htm

This is as low as I would go for your needs. I looked at this in the past and with research I would need the 1000 watt one, look at my sig.

And a PC watercooling loop doesn't have high enough flow rate to use this. And you need a larger amount of water to buffer the heatload spikes.

So you need a 20 gallon insulated sealed container with a seperate heat exchanger (rad) inside the 20 gallon container (think a VERY good ice chest).

The one you chose is for a TINY micro auarium where the water needs to be kept at a bit cooler than hot room temps. There is NO heat added. I don't think you understand how much heat your CPU creates and how much power (wattage) and heat dissipation you need.

You should just buy this and sell the H50. You learned your lesson, be glad it was only $43.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rxwak1.html

Click to expand...

That's a sweet cooling kit for sub $200! good find


*EDIT*

What kind of overclocks will I be able to achieve?

Curious how I would fit in an antec 900 case

You hang the rad off the back. Or completely gut the top, loosing the poerts and the top 2 5.25 slots.

Honestly, that link I posted has been posted here many times. Are you keeping up on the latest posts here or just reading your posts?

What kind of overclocks? If thats all you need get in touch with a top notch phase builder and buy one of those or join the Ln2/DICE fanatic group here. Good guys, very knowledgable.

treepop said:

That's a sweet cooling kit for sub $200! good find


*EDIT*

What kind of overclocks will I be able to achieve?

Curious how I would fit in an antec 900 case

Click to expand...

Just like that.

Daemonkin said:

Just like that.

Click to expand...

that doesn't look like the graphics card has any room...hrm

@Conumdrum

I haven't really been interested in water cooling for a long long while. I just saw that H50 on sale and it peeked my interest once again.

Daemonkin said:

Just like that.

Click to expand...

I would flip the rad and make the outlet barb on the GPU go downward. That would remove a ton of excess tubing.

treepop said:

that doesn't look like the graphics card has any room...hrm

Click to expand...

GPU has plenty of room

The rad like the pic shows is much easier to bleed. It looks like hell tho. The holes are custom cut I think, not the holes on the standard 900 case.

@treepop. I think ya got the idea. The heatload we generate takes a lot of cooling power, even your CPU at stock needs quite a bit of cooling. It's all about physics and what stuff can do, and how hard it can be to implement these seemingly easy solutions. Once you start digging and not looking at the pretty colors as you click on the Internet, you see there is a LOT of science and physics behind the heatload issue.

I almost bought the Haelia 1000. I was going to run tubing to another room. Had a basic parts list, massive pump, insulated 20G res, etc etc. Then the wife told me now way was I going to run a compressor (not quiet) and dump all the heat into her craft room. The heat generated by the PC is ADDED to the heat made by the compressor and it's associated radiator and fan.

And, going to chilled liquid, I would of removed about 80% of the heat in my PC room. Great. Where does it go? In the other room. AND my electric bill in the summer would be quite a bit higher. So, I just have a top notch quiet watercooled system, and live with my room being warmer.

In summary, I and many know about this thermodynamic thing for watercooling. Reading lots of posts and not rushing into crazy stuff is best. Read, learn, and here is a link you might want to read. Spending less time clicking and more reading goes a longgg way.

I have posted it 2-5 times this week already to help other folks.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6489396&postcount=3

MattNo5ss said:

I would flip the rad and make the outlet barb on the GPU go downward. That would remove a ton of excess tubing.

Click to expand...

Just have to make sure you don't pinch any water lines when you do it. Nothing a little due diligence won't fix, though.