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XSPC arrylic top on Swiftech MCP35X

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Old 10-09-11, 02:22 PM Thread Starter   #1
Lookingwest
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XSPC arrylic top on Swiftech MCP35X


I've been using the Swiftech MCP35X with the stock pump top without incident for some time now. The pump performs great. But, I want to add some pizzaz to my rig. For some time, I've been thinking of swapping the stock top with an XSPC acrylic top. But, that would void the warranty. However, the top would look great with the blue LED's and I'm going to take the chance. I do want to minimize bricking the pump.

I know, I know I'm treading on thin ice. Martinsliquidlab talks about problems flooding out the PCB board because the top was incorrectly installed, not allowing for proper seating of the 'O' ring.

Before I open up the pump, anyone have suggestions on what I need to look for and to insure is correct before I make this swap? Do I need to insure that all the screws are torqued the same? What inch pounds are the screws torqued?

Thanks for your reply,
Lookingwest
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Old 10-09-11, 04:58 PM   #2
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Mine runs just fine and I just eyeballed hte pressure on it to sorta-tightish...basically similar tightness to what I put on fittings, you're just trying to get the o-ring to seal, not trying to have enough pressure to create diamonds

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Old 10-09-11, 06:43 PM   #3
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This might sound dumb, but I filled in the pump with arctic ceramic. This was on a MCP355 without pwm. Some people have posted pics of their pump burning out, hence the reason for koolance and swiftech's heatsinks for the pump. Since I don't have the room, I had bought a 22g or 30g tube for $7 shipped (sale) and just poured a bunch in there. I originally bought it for when I do work on other's computers I don't have to keep using my shin etsu. Although now I have a $2 tube of MX-2. Anyways I just figured air is a horrible thermal conductor and I've already lost warranty by switching tops and shortening the power cords so might as well. Sloppy and a little messy inside, but the side benefit I thought of was that if a small bit of water did escape the o-ring then the ceramic could help stop it from reaching the pcb.

There really isn't anything specific to look for when tightening it. I just line it up, squeeze them together so its flush. Then lightly screw it in a star pattern till it requires you give more torque, then a 1/4-1/2 turn should be sufficient. If anything I'd be more afraid of acrylic cracking, which I actually refuse to get anything acrylic for the loop except for the microres. My take is, if the pump dies then my computer should shutdown as it heats up. If the acrylic cracks, there goes my soundcard and video card.

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Old 10-09-11, 07:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DumpALump View Post
This might sound dumb, but I filled in the pump with arctic ceramic. This was on a MCP355 without pwm. Some people have posted pics of their pump burning out, hence the reason for koolance and swiftech's heatsinks for the pump. Since I don't have the room, I had bought a 22g or 30g tube for $7 shipped (sale) and just poured a bunch in there. I originally bought it for when I do work on other's computers I don't have to keep using my shin etsu. Although now I have a $2 tube of MX-2. Anyways I just figured air is a horrible thermal conductor and I've already lost warranty by switching tops and shortening the power cords so might as well. Sloppy and a little messy inside, but the side benefit I thought of was that if a small bit of water did escape the o-ring then the ceramic could help stop it from reaching the pcb.

There really isn't anything specific to look for when tightening it. I just line it up, squeeze them together so its flush. Then lightly screw it in a star pattern till it requires you give more torque, then a 1/4-1/2 turn should be sufficient. If anything I'd be more afraid of acrylic cracking, which I actually refuse to get anything acrylic for the loop except for the microres. My take is, if the pump dies then my computer should shutdown as it heats up. If the acrylic cracks, there goes my soundcard and video card.

Dear lordy...

I'm not even going to say anything since I would likely get banned.

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Old 10-09-11, 07:15 PM   #5
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I've been using that XSPC acrylic top for going on 2 years on a MCP355 and no problems whatsoever with it or the pump. I don't claim to be an expert at installing pump tops, but I do have a little common sense that I use when messing with my loop. Seriously, I'm not the least bit afraid of that top on my pump.
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Old 10-09-11, 07:52 PM   #6
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Dear lordy...

I'm not even going to say anything since I would likely get banned.
Well if there is a problem with it, what is the problem? No need to get feisty, I'm always open to learning more.

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Old 10-10-11, 02:26 PM Thread Starter   #7
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Originally Posted by m0r7if3r View Post
Mine runs just fine and I just eyeballed hte pressure on it to sorta-tightish...basically similar tightness to what I put on fittings, you're just trying to get the o-ring to seal, not trying to have enough pressure to create diamonds
That's what I figured. I just wanted to hear other's opinions before opening it up.

As for covering the PCB with ceramique....it would be a mess. I suppose if one wanted to waterproof the PCB, one could also just take a bunch of clear silicone caulking and cover the board with it. It's non-conductive. But, that would insulate the board from heat dissipation (although not much heat comes off the board). The big problem covering the PCB with whatever would be if one wanted to get to the board to make a repair.
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Old 10-10-11, 06:03 PM   #8
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If you want to waterproof it, there's nothing as good as conformal. it goes on thin, conducts heat decently well, and is easy to apply...and if you're careful with it, you can't tell it's there, so if something goes wrong (with the pump itself, not something you effed up...don't cheat companies for your errors) you can still RMA

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