RG6 Questions

I currently have Comcast (Xfinity) cable and Comcast Internet. I am having a bit of trouble with a couple channel getting blocking and my internet dropping out a couple time a week. I have a ~60' run from the splitter where the line that comes into the house to the outlet in question. This "main run" appears to be cheap RG6 with crimp type F connectors and has some hard bends in it. From the main run I have a ~10' piece of RG6Q to a splitter and then RG6Q running from the splitter to the cable box and modem.

A while back the I had called comcast because I was having alot of problems. He replaced the cables outside the wall with RG6Q and the splitter but he did mention that i was experancing a large drop in the main run. I do have access to the entire main run so i was planning on replacing it with some RG6Q.

My questions
1) Should I run two RG6Q for the main runs one for the TV and one for the Modem or will it be ok to run a single run of RG6Q with a spliter outside the wall?
2) Is the box-o-RG6Q ($45/500') at lowes high enough quality (does it matter)?
3) Is there a big difference between the crimp connectors and the commpression connectors? Is there one brand to use that is better than another.

I'd rather purchase the cable in bulk and run my self that way i dont have a bunch of extra left hanging some where.

Thanks for looking.

jmh547 said:

I currently have Comcast (Xfinity) cable and Comcast Internet. I am having a bit of trouble with a couple channel getting blocking and my internet dropping out a couple time a week. I have a ~60' run from the splitter where the line that comes into the house to the outlet in question. This "main run" appears to be cheap RG6 with crimp type F connectors and has some hard bends in it. From the main run I have a ~10' piece of RG6Q to a splitter and then RG6Q running from the splitter to the cable box and modem.

A while back the I had called comcast because I was having alot of problems. He replaced the cables outside the wall with RG6Q and the splitter but he did mention that i was experancing a large drop in the main run. I do have access to the entire main run so i was planning on replacing it with some RG6Q.

My questions
1) Should I run two RG6Q for the main runs one for the TV and one for the Modem or will it be ok to run a single run of RG6Q with a spliter outside the wall?
2) Is the box-o-RG6Q ($45/500') at lowes high enough quality (does it matter)?
3) Is there a big difference between the crimp connectors and the commpression connectors? Is there one brand to use that is better than another.

I'd rather purchase the cable in bulk and run my self that way i dont have a bunch of extra left hanging some where.

Thanks for looking.

Click to expand...

The best thing to do would be to call Comcast and have them send another technician out. My provider has a program that you can sign up for that costs $6 per month and will cover any in-home wiring repairs that need to be done. I would recommend calling customer service again and requesting a tech to come out and asking if they have a program like the one I described. This way you can avoid getting charged to rewire each outlet you are in billing for and if they come out and rewire you will not have to worry about getting charged again for someone to come troubleshoot if you are still having issues after the fact. They will want to charge you for any T.V./cable box/modem that needs a rewire a la carte.

As far as types of cables and connectors are concerned, the cable you are referring to is called RG-6U, not RG-6Q. If you want something that is industry grade try to find yourself a box of tri-shielded RG-6U and use compression fittings. Commscope makes a good quality, industry standard cable.

Crimp fittings are bad. They come off easily, don't seat well and allow more ingress (off-air signal) to leak into the cables, which causes the types of problems you are describing... among other things. The brand of fitting is not hugely important. However, CPT and Gilbert-Corning are widely used among satellite and cable television providers. The main concern is to get a crimp tool that matches your fitting, otherwise you will have problems. The crimp tool and fittings are very expensive, which is why I would recommend asking for a tech to come out and getting on your providers insurance/customer service program as opposed to doing this yourself.

As an aside, they should be prepared with a signal meter and be able to check signal quality, power level and ingress. All are factors when it comes to reliability of your internet connection. A DSAM or "digital signal activation meter" typically cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $3000.00, not including the training required to interpret it's output. Again, another reason to request a tech.

Coaxial cable has what we call a "2 inch bend radius." In other words, if the cable is bent to a point where the radius of the bend is beyond 2 inches, the cable has essentially been damaged. The shielding of the cable will have been degraded and the impedance will no longer be 75 ohm. This also will cause problems. Therefore, any coaxial cable with a drastic bend (a bend beyond a 2" bend radius) should in theory be replaced or signal quality will degrade.

Try to get a tech out to rewire for you first. Once that is done go from there. Unless you have the experience and technical expertise to rewire yourself you will more likely make your problem worse. Good luck and I hope you can get your issues resolved.

I personally would replace the line, but I'm a trained technician.

To do work at home (and avoid the use of work tools), I bought a set of tools from Home Depot that while certainly not as good and effortless to use as my work tools, they do get the job done.

Reading from the receipt, 4/19/2011:
Klein compression tool-$19.97
Klein 2 blade coax stripper-$10.47
Compression ends (DataShark brand)-$6.97/10 pack.

The compression tool has a full 1/2" of adjustment, so once adjusted can use almost any brand of compression ends...sacrifice a couple of connectors to get it adjusted correctly.
Once you compress a fitting, trim off excess stinger (center conductor) to flush with the threaded barrel. Long stingers can actually cause reflection/degradation.
For connections outside, a dab of dielectric grease in the f-connector makes for a good water shield as well as reusing the black rubber barrier they should be using.
When fastening the cable to your structure, do NOT pinch the cable at all. Even compressed sheathing can cause signal problems, because the conductors and insulation underneath are compressed as well.
2" bend radius minimum. No radio shack splitters or barrel connectors (crap) anywhere in the house can cause problems on other lines!!!. The one's at HD are actually pretty good quality (Lowe's is a half hour drive, so I don't shop there much).

Oddly enough, there must be a RG-6Q, because it's printed on the side of my stripper--never recall seeing it on a box of coax though.
**EDIT. It's RG-6 Quad(shield).

I do agree with ANIMASANA's advice of trying to get their technician to repair it for you first though. There's nothing like a repair warranty, and it keeps them from using your installation as an excuse later.
Maintenance plans are wonderful, but you often have to wait an entire billing cycle before you can get work done using it...