My little brothers first build so why am I involved in this?

My brother bought this stuff and asked me to help him with it. I honestly wish that he had actually gotten me a little more involved with the planning instead of just the installing part as I am now given what I call somebody else's problem.

He purchased someone's used Corsair H30 PUMP and Radiator and it was package with a UPGRADE!!! 120x2 Radiator and 2 120MM fans that are not worth anything at all. He also says that the seller claimed the heat sink was lapped but IMO it looks polished I could be wrong but I have lapped things before and it really doesn't look like enough material is gone to call it lapped.

So I really do not know where to go with this and before I start unscrewing stuff I figured I would post pictures and some wiz Corsair modder may have the answers.

Or hey if anybody recognizes who kit I got giv em a shout out lol!

Here's the PIC

Ok so in the picture is the original pump below that is the factory radiator and under that is the aftermarket radiator.

SO:
1) is this how the pump would usually be removed from the original system.
2)
A) What should I use to connect this back to its original radiator.
B) An aftermarket radiator.
3) Anything I should be worried about?

There are tons of red flags for me on this which is why I am not just tearing right in. The other radiator has barbs soldered to it. The radiator seems odd right out the gate but you know most older radiators do. Most my own experience is with XSPX, TFC, EK and other very modernly designed rads so not only do I not recognize this radiator but it shape feel are unfamiliar. It is very heavy (maybe good) but I do not actually see any G1/4 threads anywhere (very bad in my book) so I am worried that if this pump end up being a wash that the rad may be as well.

I am hoping I don't have to give my brother a big saddy face!

So if anyone point me out in which way to step it would be nice. The is like 1/2" of tubing still on the pump which honestly just troubles me anyways as it seems like it would be the original. So I don't even know if I should start by taking the screw in the back off or if all those bolts on the front of the block need to come out.

Thanks a head of time if someone actually helps me out. Hopefully I don't have to end up handing over my spare H20 pump and rad to save him from a total bummer fest as I totally wanted to use it to get rid of the res on one of my computers (wife complaining of not having a dvd-rom!)!

Here are some other picture of the extra radiator it cam with.

It could be just me, but I swear that radiator (the non-Corsair one) looks more like a heater-core out of a car that someone has modified for PC water-cooling than and actual radiator meant for PC water-cooling.

It would certainly explain why they soldered the fittings on.

i'm probably the wrong person to comment, but i can't find any information on a h30... there is a corsair h30 waterblock for ram... but i can see it's not what you're highlighting. Are you sure about the name?

It looks like a Corsair H50 to me. Here is a review that shows the pump/waterblock disasembled. purhaps this might help a little. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/corsair-h50_3.html#sect0

I would be concerned about that copper cooling plate... frankly the whole device looks like it was left outside in the weather for a few months. I'd definitely test it to make sure it works before putting it into a pc. Those wires scare me too... I'd probably replace them all together. The H50 was filled with distilled water, so it shouldn't be hard to refill it.

(sorry about double posting)

You should be able to fit pretty much any tubing you'd like on it. Shouldn't be hard to find one the right diameter. Then use simple hose clamps to lock it down on the nipples (something like these). From what it looks, apparently, you'd take apart the block/pump to fill the system with distilled water... something like that... i guess the bottom comes off.

Oh hey yes it is a H50 my mistake. The only thing that makes me think that it isn't a heater core from a car is that it is exactly 120x2 and has the proper brackets for the fans on both sides and it is by no means ghetto fashioned on there or anything. It was built and designed ground up as a computer product.

However your description is valid. I believe it is likely a very old product or very cheap product one or the other but not both. I say old because the old school dedicated water cooling products where sometimes based off the heater core ideas. I say cheap because if it isn't old then there is no excuse for a lack of G1/4 threads!

edit
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About the tubing and hose clamps. I am a little worried about the fact that the tubing would be the wrong size for one end or the other.

kind of looks like a dirt bike radiator,thing must be ancient god knows whats resting down in there lol.

i was going to say wasn't the h30 a RAM cooler? anyhow that h50 looks toasted also it was made to be a sealed unit it might be a pain to get it properly filled.

might want to just scrap that thing or ask for his money back and get a new cooler.

oh yea, dont use just distilled, you need some kind of corrosion inhibitor as the rad on the H-series are aluminum dont want no galvanic corrosion

givmedew said:

Oh hey yes it is a H50 my mistake. The only thing that makes me think that it isn't a heater core from a car is that it is exactly 120x2 and has the proper brackets for the fans on both sides and it is by no means ghetto fashioned on there or anything. It was built and designed ground up as a computer product.

However your description is valid. I believe it is likely a very old product or very cheap product one or the other but not both. I say old because the old school dedicated water cooling products where sometimes based off the heater core ideas. I say cheap because if it isn't old then there is no excuse for a lack of G1/4 threads!

edit
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About the tubing and hose clamps. I am a little worried about the fact that the tubing would be the wrong size for one end or the other.

Click to expand...

Well, the h50 came out in 2011. Which is why i suggested the whole thing was sitting outside in the weather for a while. Its the only way to explain the advanced state of abuse i can see on the pump.

The large radiator looks like either a Magicool EX 240mm or a HL Black Ice (SR-1 240 or an Xtreme II).

wagex said:

oh yea, dont use just distilled, you need some kind of corrosion inhibitor as the rad on the H-series are aluminum dont want no galvanic corrosion

Click to expand...

I suggested distilled water because that's apparently what was used in the H50. If the radiator is aluminum then that's one hell of a design oversight. As a sidenote, if the big radiator is either the magicool or hl black ice, it is a copper radiator.

So I talked to the seller on ebay just asking some questions and he was very polite and helpful and is sending me the tubbing he used. Apperentally it is common to leave the rubber of the original hose on the pump inlet/outlet because you push the larger tubing over it and clamp it... Sound sketchy to me but I don't think this guy was trying to sell a box of junk to a misled audience.

I am going to wait till the tubing gets here and see what I can do. I of course will be leak testing the heck out of it. He is also giving me some other tubing not for it that is new and he has laying around and he is including the biocide he had. So all in all I would say the guy is legit. Just this is not my style at all. My syle is pay a little more and get a swiftech h20 system over a modified h50.

Thanks for the help I will keep everyone posted once I actually figure this out.

The radiator pics: that's brass under the peeling paint. Fins are aluminum. Fittings are brass as well. Had an H50, the pump looks identical. Mine was noisy on an intermittant basis but worked well enough. Think it was a bubble.

Measure the barbs' OD, then you'll know the ID of the tubing you'll need. There are industry standards for all those parts, not a big deal. And you might want to get some automotive grade radiator flush to run through the rad a couple of times. Who knows, you may discover a new life form.

Give up, run away, tell brother "all yours, kid" they hate that.
Save creating/rewarding bad habbits.
Price for H50 is $65 shipped new on newegg, what is your time worth?
And if it leaaks you won't be responsible.

woboy said:

Give up, run away, tell brother "all yours, kid" they hate that.
Save creating/rewarding bad habbits.
Price for H50 is $65 shipped new on newegg, what is your time worth?
And if it leaaks you won't be responsible.

Click to expand...

I may just proof it and leak test it and put it back on ebay for someone who actually wants it and knows what they are doing with it.

I know it is a lot less expensive then say buying a swiftech waterblock/pump combo and a rad/res combo or a water block and a swiftech rad/res/pump combo but I just don't like it that much. Plus with my luck it will spring burst on him ruining everything!

Regardless I am going to get it running one way or another because I am not going to post it on ebay without knowing for sure it is ok.

Oh the guy sent me the tubing it arrived today I can def see how this was done now. The size of the fittings on the pump with the old hose still on the fittings makes it the perfect size for this hose. According to him there is a bleed screw on the top of the pump. Not sure how to get to it but I will read all those guides that where posted here.

He said the rad was purchased from directron.com so whatever they sell?

Wish me luck.

The H50 is a sealed system. Since it was taken apart you will need a reservoir otherwise you will not have a way to bleed the system properly. I highly suggest you remove the tubing he left on there and get the correct size tubing needed. If you need to then use adapters it will be much safer in the long run.

The upgrade radiator looks a bit beat (though old radiators did flake quite easy), but will do a much better job cooling than the stock radiator due to a larger surface area. Not sure the brand of the radiator, but it looks like any radiator made today other than the fact that the fitters were soldered on from the start. This only means the radiator is an older model as this was very common back in the day.

Honestly as long as the pump is functional you don't have much to worry about. The H50 has been modded many times in the past few years to achieve better results. Due to how cheap the initial purchase was it is very common. Google h50 mod to see some examples.

Best of luck.

[AK]Zip said:

The H50 is a sealed system. Since it was taken apart you will need a reservoir otherwise you will not have a way to bleed the system properly.

Click to expand...

I was told there is a bleed screw on the pump. Does anyone know about this?

As for using the right tubbing and then an adapter I think this is they way to go.

givmedew said:

I was told there is a bleed screw on the pump. Does anyone know about this?

As for using the right tubbing and then an adapter I think this is they way to go.

Click to expand...

bleeder valve? on a closed system? That's odd, even if you bleed it correctly you'll just lose more water. Why would anyone ever take any of those kits apart?

Basically now you need a res, or another tub attached to the bleed to be full of water

i think newegg has the H50 on sale today for $50......just saying