Cooling my Mancave setup

CPU: AMD FX-6100 3.3GHz Socket 6-core AM3+ (FD6100WMGUSBX)
GPU: Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 6870
RAM: 4GBx4 (16GB) G.SKILL Sniper Series 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866
MB: ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
Chassis: 4U rackmount case w/ 6 hot swap bays, 2 5.25 External bays, 2 3.5 external bays (one 5.25 bay used for Blu-ray Writer, one 3.5 use for card reader) mounted in a full-sized rack enclosure with Network Switch, Printer, PS3, DirecTV DVR, and Bose sound system on individual selves in enclosure.
Room: 10’x14’ Mancave in house kept in the 67-75 degree range depending on outside weather.

Goal: My goal for this setup is to eliminate as many fans as possible while keeping both my PC and my PS3 cool during extended play time. I want to eliminate the fans for noise reasons. I was also hoping by WC cooling, that the exhausted heat wouldn’t cause the room to heat up as much as my current air-cool system does. I want to use compression connectors because I like the clean look. I am also not worried about trying to fit everything in the chassis. In fact I was planning on using an external rackmount 3x120mm Fan plate, mounting the rad/rads on the inside of it with low-dB USB fans.

Component List:
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Full Copper (EK-Supremacy - Full Copper)
Koolance VID-AR687 Water Block Cooling Block
Alphacool PlayStation 3 water block
Swiftech MCP35X2
Phobya Acrylic Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Level Indicator - Black (45189)
Koolance Nozzles and QD's
Phobya Bulkhead 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD (10mm x 13mm) Compression Coupler - Vintage Matte Black (65189)
Lowes 3/8" OD copper plumbing pipe
*** Edited to reflect recommendations ***

My experience: I have been building my own computers from scratch for close to 15 years, but this will be my first WC system. I have worked as Aircraft Electronics Repair Tech for the last 21 years, so I am well aware of the hazards involved, which is why I am asking for input. My current project while I plan this one is custom-building all the cables to minimize their footprint in the case and reduce clutter.

You don't split the flow. Flow will be too low on the CPU for the block to work. The BI Stealth rad (old style is old, poor flow and not good with better rads out there.

The res has no not one bit on cooling. It's the rad.

I think there is more to the stickies you should go over, many good reads. You have some glaring misconceptions that is mainly due to not enough research. You did the classic 'click' before understanding the basics.

And umm, you don't need to cool the mobo. Save money.

Thanks for the input. Ok, I removed the Mobo cooling and the res along with the split loops. I have been reading all morning since I posted last night. I am making some adjustments and will post them once I have finished for your input.

Good deal. I'm an old Avionics tech from the F-4 fighter days and been in the repair business a long time also. Your hands on skill are invaluable with the common sense experiance you have. It should be easy once you learn all the terms etc.

This is going to be sick...

A couple tips:
- Remove the DDR cooler.. Those things don't even get warm. It's not worth the hassle of installing it, nor the money of buying it. Instead, keep the stock cooler and get a RAM fan. If you go full water, you might need a little bit of air for your VRMs, that the RAM cooler will gladly provide.
- Do you surely need to watercool the PS3?
- I don't really like the Aerocool Sharks. I'm not updated as far as for fans go, but you should look for Scythe Gentle Typhoons if you can afford them, they're the best thing you'll find. The high rpm black Gentle Typhoons are PWM controllable for the price of a 24AWG and a 4pin PWM fan connector. If you don't want to pay that price, look for the Yate Loons. They're cheap, and they work.

Thanks, txus. I had actually had that (the DDRs) on my cut list. I was googling for RAM heat loads when I came across a post stating the low temps, so checked myself and they are barely warm to the touch. I don't really need to watercool the PS3, but it does get kind of hot. Plus, I have it sitting on top of the DVR, so the heat from it probably isn't helping. Optimally, it would be on its own shelf, but those are the only ones i have. I got the rack and shelves from my father-in-law,who got two of them at a Navy surplus auction. He has had them for years wondering what to do with them. I asked for one, and once he saw my setup he did the same thing. I also want to watercool it for the cool factor,. I selected the Sharks because they were listed as high press, low dB. Low dB is important for me, i will look into those fans you listed.

coogvet said:

Thanks, txus. I had actually had that (the DDRs) on my cut list. I was googling for RAM heat loads when I came across a post stating the low temps, so checked myself and they are barely warm to the touch. I don't really need to watercool the PS3, but it does get kind of hot. Plus, I have it sitting on top of the DVR, so the heat from it probably isn't helping. Optimally, it would be on its own shelf, but those are the only ones i have. I got the rack and shelves from my father-in-law,who got two of them at a Navy surplus auction. He has had them for years wondering what to do with them. I asked for one, and once he saw my setup he did the same thing. I also want to watercool it for the cool factor,. I selected the Sharks because they were listed as high press, low dB. Low dB is important for me, i will look into those fans you listed.

Click to expand...

Exactly. Listed. But nowhere near the truth. Aerocool is one of those brands I personally hate, so probably they were faking the specs or they are impossible in real life. On the other hand, Nidec, a professional fan manufacturer does not need to fake the results.

Man, whether it's for the cool factor or not, this is gonna be awesome. Maybe MIAHALLEN's mITX awesome grade or thideras' Rackmount Overkill awesome grade. Or a mix of both.

It's worth noting that your room will be heated exactly the same amount by air or water cooling of the same bits. Either way you're putting the same amount of heat into your room.

Now a remote-radiator type WC system can put the heat somewhere else, if the heating of your room is an issue that'd be something to look into.
That puts the radiator fans somewhere else too.

Bobnova said:

It's worth noting that your room will be heated exactly the same amount by air or water cooling of the same bits. Either way you're putting the same amount of heat into your room.

Click to expand...

While this is definitely true, the "perceived" heat is exponentially lower, at least in my case.

The air coming off of my two 80c gpu's and 75c cpu right beside my body was much more uncomfortable than my current WC setup is. While the room will end up being the same temperature after a couple hours of gaming, the air coming out of the computer RIGHT beside your chair won't be scalding hot anymore. Not even lukewarm in my case.

I used to have to open the window and turn the attic fan on if I wanted to game comfortably for a couple hours. My central A/C could never keep me comfortable in here.

Now it's enough to just turn on the ceiling fan and crack the window, because the air coming out of this radiator "feels" no different than room temperature. Though the room still heats up much more than the other rooms in the house, it's hard to notice it when it happens so gradually.

Seems like changing the direction of the airflow would have been cheaper than water cooling, or adding more of it

But yeah, if you're sitting right in the exhaust, that will be different.

Bobnova said:

or adding more of it

Click to expand...

That was my problem, I was running an open case, so there wasn't much else to do. I'm also not a huge fan of having loads of air blowing on me (I dislike the attic fan because the house becomes a vortex). This room is the closest room in the house to the return on the central a/c as well, but the duct to the vent in here is a fairly long run from the trunk line. My girlfriend is hot all the time and my mother is cold all the time so the thermostat is a battleground, which exasperates the problem further.

Watercooling for me removed the "hotspot" of the room and turned it into a more even distribution of heat that is far easier for the a/c (or windows) to manage. Living with two women, this desk is my "mancave" and watercooling made it tremendously more comfortable. Judging by the OP's pictures, his mancave is a big chair beside a bunch of hot stuff, and watercooling may do the same for him.

anyone have personal experience with the XSPC 120mm x 25mm Radiator / Chassis Fan - 1200 RPM?

Its listed specs are Airflow: 48.3, Noise: ~22dBA, Static Pressure: 1.0mmAq. and there was only one review on it.

I dont quite understand how AF and SP correlate. I read this as the fan will produce 48.3 when the SP is at 1.0mmAq. Is that right? And is that a good rating?

I would like to to keep the noise below 25 if possible.

\dev\goat said:

Judging by the OP's pictures, his mancave is a big chair beside a bunch of hot stuff, and watercooling may do the same for him.

Click to expand...

Actually, there is a big chair between my big chair and the rack.

coogvet said:

anyone have personal experience with the XSPC 120mm x 25mm Radiator / Chassis Fan - 1200 RPM?

Its listed specs are Airflow: 48.3, Noise: ~22dBA, Static Pressure: 1.0mmAq. and there was only one review on it.

I dont quite understand how AF and SP correlate. I read this as the fan will produce 48.3 when the SP is at 1.0mmAq. Is that right? And is that a good rating?

I would like to to keep the noise below 25 if possible.

Click to expand...

Where is your reviews for fans from? martinsliquidlab.org is a good place to start. It's formal testing of tons of fans on the same elaborate setup. There are others. I in the years I been doing this disreguard all manufacturers specs. I can think of one spec by one company that was so bad, they actually changed their rated specs because it was a lie.

So beware.............

coogvet said:

anyone have personal experience with the XSPC 120mm x 25mm Radiator / Chassis Fan - 1200 RPM?

Its listed specs are Airflow: 48.3, Noise: ~22dBA, Static Pressure: 1.0mmAq. and there was only one review on it.

I dont quite understand how AF and SP correlate. I read this as the fan will produce 48.3 when the SP is at 1.0mmAq. Is that right? And is that a good rating?

I would like to to keep the noise below 25 if possible.

Click to expand...

i believe you're looking for p-q curve; a chart that shows how static pressure changes as air flow increases or decreased. problem is, no one is exactly collecting and testing these fans in a way to compare apples to apples. some have tested this, and there is data out there; the martin lab link was already posted.

The bigger picture is that "these water cooling guys" here have already done the in field testing and have come up with a general consensus; the gentle typhoon 120mm fans are the best for CFM @ DB @ SP. most order the 1800rpm and use a fan controller to run them closer to 1200 rpm; this gives good static pressure/air flow and is quiet. I personally went with a cheaper fan, yate loon, and though they work decently, they don't feel like they move enough air through my 60mm radiator; but they work. so it's a give and take; use whichever you want (there are dozens of fan comparisons across the internet) but at some point you trade noise for air flow, or air flow for static pressure, or noise for static pressure; so it is sort of up to what you want... but the Gentle Typhoon fans are known for being the best combo of all requirements.

WHAT RADIATOR are you planning to use?

Why dont you buy a cheap A/C unit at home depot for 200 bucks and stick it right on it

dtrunk said:

i believe you're looking for p-q curve; a chart that shows how static pressure changes as air flow increases or decreased. problem is, no one is exactly collecting and testing these fans in a way to compare apples to apples. some have tested this, and there is data out there; the martin lab link was already posted.

The bigger picture is that "these water cooling guys" here have already done the in field testing and have come up with a general consensus; the gentle typhoon 120mm fans are the best for CFM @ DB @ SP. most order the 1800rpm and use a fan controller to run them closer to 1200 rpm; this gives good static pressure/air flow and is quiet. I personally went with a cheaper fan, yate loon, and though they work decently, they don't feel like they move enough air through my 60mm radiator; but they work. so it's a give and take; use whichever you want (there are dozens of fan comparisons across the internet) but at some point you trade noise for air flow, or air flow for static pressure, or noise for static pressure; so it is sort of up to what you want... but the Gentle Typhoon fans are known for being the best combo of all requirements.

WHAT RADIATOR are you planning to use?

Click to expand...

Good points. New folks don't understand how good they are and why we rave why we like them. There are a few other good fans out there, 140mm, 120mm, PWM vs voltage control, the OP needs to learn what is the best for his needs, that's all. Maybe it's just not knowing and readin enuff posts or just click n buy syndrome. Watercooling is bad when you click and buy, we all know that.

The OP had some really bad choices on his first rad ideas because the marketing words from back in 2006 were magic. He's looking at different rads I'm sure now, it's not in his list.

He'll do the research,, he seems to understand that and it'll be a bit till he redoes his list.

It's part of the learning curve. He wanted to cool the ram to start, so he's learning about the science of watercooling now me figures.

Well, according to my research and your excellent site, I'm going to need at least 120x5 to cool both the PC and the PS3 (120x3 for the PC & 120x2 for the PS3). So, I am at a conundrum. Do I get a massive rad like th Phobya Xtreme Nova 1080 and have lots of room for expansion, or get 2 120x3 rads and hook them in series with not so much room for expansion. I have looked at a few 120x6 rads but the ones with decent reviews are not readily available, and the readily available ones dont have good reviews. I am actually also considering the Extreme Nova and using bigger fans. What do you guys think?

Take a look at mine in my sig. I'm using 4x 180mm on my mora3. It's super quiet. You can turn 3 of them off, really.