Unknown Problem and Source

Hey everyone, I built a PC maby 2 weeks ago and I started noticing issues last Friday. I don't know what to RMA because I don't know where the problem is coming from, or if it even is hardware related.

Here are my specs:
- i7 3770k
- Hyper 212 EVO
- Asus P8Z77-V LK Mobo.
- MSI TwinFrozr III 7970
- Seasonic M12II Bronze 620W PSU
- 8GB Crucial RAM
- 64 GB Crucial SSD
- 1TB WD Caviar Green HDD

I have one monitor running off the 7970 and one off of the 3770k integrated graphics

So...

It started on that Friday afternoon, I had left the house and when I came back a "ASUS Anti-Surge protection" BIOS message was up on my screen. Basically saying that the computer was shut down to avoid damage to hardware from a power surge or dirty power. This happened 2 more times over the next 3 days, all when I wasn't even using the computer. I plugged the PSU directly into the wall instead of the power-strip, it hasn't happened since.

Oh just remembered: Prior to this, maybe a week before the SSD was either not getting powered or not getting recognized by the motherboard, I un-plugged and re-plugged the SATA and power cables and then it worked again. Again, this hasn't happened since.

More recently (yesterday), the 7970 screen was flickering while I was just on Reddit and reading some news. It was flickering black, and a youtube tab I had closed earlier.

This happened again this morning for a short period of time while I was playing a game, except it was just the black flickering, the game was also kept freezing for 1 - 2 seconds. This actually caused me to drive of the road in Euro Truck Simulator 2 .

Then later when I was watching a movie, I noticed that when I dragged the VLC window onto the 7970 screen the GPU started to make a clicking noise, The video was 720p and not full screen. I moved the window back to the 3770k powered screen and the clicking faded but It was still there. I know It wasn't the fans because when I stopped the fans, the noise was still there.

As a side-note, when I was listening to music in foobar2000 I noticed that the one of song stopped in the middle and the HDD spun up, then It kept playing. I don't think this is an issue but I just thought It was worth mentioning because I noticed it.

So, what do you guys think the problem is, what should I do? I think its probably the graphics card (or the drivers?, i'm using the catalyst 13.4 drivers), but because of the anti-surge warning and the SSD not getting recognized/not getting power Im worried it may be the motherboard or PSU. Anyway, thanks in advance, I hope we can solve this .

I'd say either the RAM or the SSD.

But you have to go through a long an painful process: test all your components.

Start with the minimum, out of the case: MoBo, CPU, one stick of RAM, HDD (or SSD). If OK, swicth the RAM stick. If still OK, add the second RAM stick, if ok, switch SSD/HDD. If still OK, add the SSD/HDD. If still OK, add the GPU. If still OK, put it back in the case.

That should help identifying the problem.

EDIT: if you go into issu xhen testing SSD/HDD, switch Sata ports. And issue when testing RAM, switch DDR slots. Same for the GPU.

manu2b said:

I'd say either the RAM or the SSD.

But you have to go through a long an painful process: test all your components.

Start with the minimum, out of the case: MoBo, CPU, one stick of RAM, HDD (or SSD). If OK, swicth the RAM stick. If still OK, add the second RAM stick, if ok, switch SSD/HDD. If still OK, add the SSD/HDD. If still OK, add the GPU. If still OK, put it back in the case.

That should help identifying the problem.

EDIT: if you go into issu xhen testing SSD/HDD, switch Sata ports. And issue when testing RAM, switch DDR slots. Same for the GPU.

Click to expand...

Ok i'll start with the RAM, i don't know what I could do for testing the SSD because that is what windows is on.

Actually now that I think back even more, when I first used the computer I remember that moving windows was kinda jumpy on the 7970 screen and not on the 3770k. The more I think about it, the more I think it is a problem with the MSI card. Should I RMA it or does anyone feel strongly another way?

Have you tried running both moniters off the same card?

kyfire said:

Have you tried running both moniters off the same card?

Click to expand...

I actually just tried running the game on low off the 7970, same problem, but then I plugged the monitor if was using for the 7970 into the integrated graphics, same problem. But i noticed the HDD makes a noise whenever it happens. Im starting to think that the HDD might be bad (I did get that HDD out of a external HDD).

But i also got a BSOD awhile back, it said the cause was the 7970 driver. Although, the AMD drivers were installed on the HDD. It happened while trying to preview a screen saver xD.

Ok, I uninstalled the game from the HDD, and put it on the SSD, and guess what? No stutters! I think we have found the culprit? But could the HDD be responsible for the power surge warning and BSOD driver issues?

Could simply be because its a green drive, not spinning fast enough for a game.

pixel_ said:

Ok, I uninstalled the game from the HDD, and put it on the SSD, and guess what? No stutters! I think we have found the culprit? But could the HDD be responsible for the power surge warning and BSOD driver issues?

Click to expand...

An anti-surge message was reporting a completely different problem. Shutdown was not averting hardware damage. The defect still exists. You have simply cured a symptom.

Use a multimeter to obtain numbers so that you (or others) can specifically say (without doubt) what is defective. Measure (on the 20 VDC scale) any one red, orange, yellow, and purple wire where the PSU connects to the motherboard. Report three digit numbers for each. Both when the system powers up. And maybe when running programs. Generally, a defective number will exist when the system does and does not crash. Those numbers will also identify the 'fix it once and be done' solution.

westom said:

An anti-surge message was reporting a completely different problem. Shutdown was not averting hardware damage. The defect still exists. You have simply cured a symptom.

Use a multimeter to obtain numbers so that you (or others) can specifically say (without doubt) what is defective. Measure (on the 20 VDC scale) any one red, orange, yellow, and purple wire where the PSU connects to the motherboard. Report three digit numbers for each. Both when the system powers up. And maybe when running programs. Generally, a defective number will exist when the system does and does not crash. Those numbers will also identify the 'fix it once and be done' solution.

Click to expand...

I don't have a multi-meter , and you lost me on the rest of that post (don't know how to use it or what a 20 VDC scale is, etc.).

On the other hand I noticed something else funny. The ram i got is supposed to be operating at 1600 MHz but windows (cpuz and speecy) say the DRAM Frequency is 804.2 MHz?

Also, that hard drive died this afternoon, It was making a clicking noise then it disappeared from my computer.

Im getting a littled overwhelmed by this, I put alot of money into this and Im at fear of it all just going down the drain, so I appreciate everyones help.

Saying all that, what should my next step be? Im assuming we still don't know what is wrong?

Thanks in advance

The BIOS is also seeing the RAM frequency as 13xx MHz (on both sticks).

This is getting agitating -_- things can never just work for me can they. Im afraid I screwed up the whole thing by static shocking it now . If I only I could just rebuild the whole thing with new parts.

It's DDR2 ram, so double your number............

In your bios you have it set to 1333, not 1600. That's why.

Quit using the bios, get CPU Z, GPU Z, Realtemp, Prime 95. Might want to spend a few days reading about this stuff, you got issues and we can't help you a lot from wayyy over here especially with your limited knowledge? Got a friend who knows this stuff more than you?

Clicking on a HD is very bad except for power shutdown when it parks, that is probably your issue. It's failing, corrupting files etc.

Wasn't the GPU clicking from your earlier post, it was the HD? We can assume that?

Did you plug anything in with power applied?

Conumdrum said:

It's DDR2 ram, so double your number............

In your bios you have it set to 1333, not 1600. That's why.

Quit using the bios, get CPU Z, GPU Z, Realtemp, Prime 95. Might want to spend a few days reading about this stuff, you got issues and we can't help you a lot from wayyy over here especially with your limited knowledge? Got a friend who knows this stuff more than you?

Clicking on a HD is very bad except for power shutdown when it parks, that is probably your issue. It's failing, corrupting files etc.

Wasn't the GPU clicking from your earlier post, it was the HD? We can assume that?

Did you plug anything in with power applied?

Click to expand...

- Its set to AUTO in bios not 1333, also its DDR3 memory not DDR2

- I have locally run PC support buisness, but otherwise no

- Yep with the HDD

- Yah, the clicking was comming from the HDD, but the GPU is still making a noise, its not the fans but I don't know if thats a problem or not. It sounds sort of like buzzing/humming.

I have not had any Anti-Surge problems since I plugged it directly into the wall

Just got an "Out Of Memory at Line 2" Error :/

Update: Found out this is just IE being stupid, I have to use it because of the failed HDD.

I have a feeling either the motherboard is defective or the RAM.

pixel_ said:

I don't have a multi-meter , and you lost me on the rest of that post (don't know how to use it or what a 20 VDC scale is, etc.).

Click to expand...

Defined is what must occur to solve that problem. If you cannot use a multimeter, then mobile phones and iPods must create total confusion. Those devices are many times more complex

How to use a meter: 1) Set it to the 20 VDC setting. 2) Touch one probe to the chassis. 3) Touch the other probe to that colored wire. 4) Read the number.

Those symptoms may be explained by one number from the meter. Even clicking from the drive. Unfortunately you are citing symptoms subjectively rather than identifying the problem quantitatively. So every reply can only be wild speculation. To have an answer that immediately solves the problem, spend as little as £7 in Maplin or $12 in Walmart for the only tool that will either identify or exonerate what is currently the number one suspect.

Get the meter and follow the four above steps. Only then can others say what is or is not defective - without wild speculation.

You have zero reasons to believe all those other parts are defective - until numbers are meassured on any red, orange, yellow, and purple wire (as described previously). You will have no idea why this is, overwhelmingly, ther best recommendation until you do it.

westom said:

Defined is what must occur to solve that problem. If you cannot use a multimeter, then mobile phones and iPods must create total confusion. Those devices are many times more complex

How to use a meter: 1) Set it to the 20 VDC setting. 2) Touch one probe to the chassis. 3) Touch the other probe to that colored wire. 4) Read the number.

Those symptoms may be explained by one number from the meter. Even clicking from the drive. Unfortunately you are citing symptoms subjectively rather than identifying the problem quantitatively. So every reply can only be wild speculation. To have an answer that immediately solves the problem, spend as little as £7 in Maplin or $12 in Walmart for the only tool that will either identify or exonerate what is currently the number one suspect.

Get the meter and follow the four above steps. Only then can others say what is or is not defective - without wild speculation.

You have zero reasons to believe all those other parts are defective - until numbers are meassured on any red, orange, yellow, and purple wire (as described previously). You will have no idea why this is, overwhelmingly, ther best recommendation until you do it.

Click to expand...

I'll pick one up tomorrow, I rummeged through some drawers and I found a watt meter but I don't think that will help much :/.

westom said:

Defined is what must occur to solve that problem. If you cannot use a multimeter, then mobile phones and iPods must create total confusion. Those devices are many times more complex

How to use a meter: 1) Set it to the 20 VDC setting. 2) Touch one probe to the chassis. 3) Touch the other probe to that colored wire. 4) Read the number.

Those symptoms may be explained by one number from the meter. Even clicking from the drive. Unfortunately you are citing symptoms subjectively rather than identifying the problem quantitatively. So every reply can only be wild speculation. To have an answer that immediately solves the problem, spend as little as £7 in Maplin or $12 in Walmart for the only tool that will either identify or exonerate what is currently the number one suspect.

Get the meter and follow the four above steps. Only then can others say what is or is not defective - without wild speculation.

You have zero reasons to believe all those other parts are defective - until numbers are meassured on any red, orange, yellow, and purple wire (as described previously). You will have no idea why this is, overwhelmingly, ther best recommendation until you do it.

Click to expand...

Amen. It could be a multitude of issues.

And you didn't answer this: Did you plug anything in with power applied?

Your hum from the GPU could be coil whine. Did you take a tech stethoscope to the offending coil and listen? Or PSU's can make a whine from a coil or a failing capacitor?

And you blame it on a mobo or ram but you haven't run the mem tests yet?

PLEASE PLEASE read about how to test a PSU output before you do it. Spend an hour, save 24 hours for waiting for us to reply. LEARN.

Lastly, there are many top notch surge protectors out there. There are also MANYMANY really junk ones out there made in questionable factories 1000's of miles away. If your not spending $50+ on a surge protector then I question it's quality.

Your fault I think is due to other issues. You live in the country far away from reliable power connections? Then you need a REALLY good surge protector or a UPS.

Conumdrum said:

Amen. It could be a multitude of issues.

And you didn't answer this: Did you plug anything in with power applied?

Your hum from the GPU could be coil whine. Did you take a tech stethoscope to the offending coil and listen? Or PSU's can make a whine from a coil or a failing capacitor?

And you blame it on a mobo or ram but you haven't run the mem tests yet?

PLEASE PLEASE read about how to test a PSU output before you do it. Spend an hour, save 24 hours for waiting for us to reply. LEARN.

Lastly, there are many top notch surge protectors out there. There are also MANYMANY really junk ones out there made in questionable factories 1000's of miles away. If your not spending $50+ on a surge protector then I question it's quality.

Your fault I think is due to other issues. You live in the country far away from reliable power connections? Then you need a REALLY good surge protector or a UPS.

Click to expand...

I don't recall plugging anything in with the power applied

I also suspected that the sound from the GPU was coil whine, but I have not looked into it that much.

I just thought I would give a quick update, since the removal of the HDD i have not experienced and problems. I am still going to do some readings with the multimeter though and post them here, but as of right now things seem to be running smoothly, except that i'm stuck with a 64GB SSD as my only storage unit xD

Well at least HDs are cheap and you are still up and running. Give it a while, run all the tests again to see if it's better. If all looks good, get a new HD. Is it still under warranty?