Capacitor replacement with a slightly different question.

I have a MB I picked up from the classies LONG ago but never ended up using. In the process of moving into my house, I rediscovered the board and noticed it has multiple caps that are bulging but not yet leaking. No clue if they were when I bought it and TBH it doesn't matter so many years later.

If I can fix the board, I would like to. If nothing else, I can use it in the workshop/office as a media streamer/netbox...

So here is the question:
Is it possible to do a conversion/replacement from the current electrolytic caps to solid caps? Assuming I ordered solid caps that were of equal value to the electrolytic caps (same voltage, same uF, etc.) it should be a non issue to do a 1:1 swap correct?

Worst case, I can further improve my soldering skills.

If you could, yes. I'd be shocked if you could, though. For a given package diameter electrolytics generally have two or more times the capacity.

I'm figuring that I will probably NOT find comparable solid caps but just in case I wanted to double check.

Any recommendations on manufacturers to use,avoid,runohgodwhydidyouusetheircaps?

Polymer caps are all good as far as I know.
Electrolytic less so. I would stick to Japanese or Taiwanese brands, there are a lot.

Polymer caps are electrolytic caps, only they don't use water.

Search the BadCaps.net forums about "poly mod", especially from Topcat. There have been failures, perhaps some due to the polymer caps having much lower impedance and causing ringing in filter circuits that also contain inductors (coils). Another website tried polymer caps in ATX power supplies, and 2 out of 3 did not work.

Generally you can get by with half the capacitance if you switch to polymer caps because of their lower impedance, but apparently it doesn't hurt to use the same capacitance.

Stick with Japanese brands, like Panasonic, Nippon Chemicon/United Chemicon, Nichicon, Sanyo/Sun, Rubycon, and Fujitsu, but avoid Toshin Kogyo (TK, not to be confused with Panasonic model TK caps). Also Chemicon's KZG and KZJ models are unreliable and may rot even in storage.

Almost all non-Japanese brands are Taiwanese, including G-Luxon, Teapo, OST, and Jamicon, and except for Jamicon, their wet electrolytic caps are not highly reliable.

OTOH it seems a lot easier to buy Japanese brands, at least in the US, but beware of counterfeits, which have been sold on eBay (except from the PC Motherboard Capacitors Store, perhaps the only reliable caps dealer on eBay) and by DealExtreme.

If the motherboard doesn't have damaged caps, first install polymer caps only where they can improve reliability the most, such as at the switching voltage regulators for the CPU and memory, and around any hot chips, like the north bridge. OTOH it probably won't help to replace other caps if they're high quality Japanese, especially Rubycon, Panasonic, or Sanyo/Sun.

A list of all capacitor manufacturers: http://capacitor.web.fc2.com