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Im fed up with Athlon

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dreamtfk

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2002
Location
Orlando FL
I have replaced the motherboard, I have replaced the cpu, I have tried the factory hs/fan I tried a Volcano 7 hs/fan I have used arctic silver2 on the cpu, left one panel off and the ambient room temperature is fine.

My cpu is still running at no lower than 55C all the way up to 64C+
With the factory fan my cpu goes from cold turkey to 65 C in under 10 minutes!! (and yes the hs/fan is correctly attatched)
My final decision is to just get a P4 board and cpu. I know athlons run hot and asus mobo's give bad temp readouts but this is ridiculous. :mad:
 
It's your board. Asus boards have inacurate readings, off by about 10C.

Do a search on Asus and/or temp readings or some such
 
If you've done all that stuff - why not get a Compunurse or something similar and actually read your temps?

For that matter, unless the system is unstable, why do you care?
 
Just accept the fact that your board reads high set MBM5 to compensate and you are all set. It is not the chips fault please do not take it out on the chip:D Good Luck with whatever you decide to do, but be aware that if you go over to the Intel side you could still have the same problems.



Edit: I agree about the compunurse.
 
Same here, I am going intel next time what ever the cost. I have had three heatsinks on this T-Bird and I am still geting extremely high temps, and all these case fans are getting on my nerves.
 
i'll buy your TBirds off you cheap when you downgrade to P4s.
 
Not a problem - get a fridge ;).
This is what I am getting with a T'bird 1.333 AXIA Y at default.
 
it is 80f in my house, and the AMD retail HSF gets me 55c under load (i was testing it:)) with AS3 and good case airflow, add to that the 10c prob, and there is your problem.

even though 55c is hot, most retail comps are easily that hot and run fine for years.

spend 22$ and get a Glaciator 2, or 18 for a glaciator1, throw 2 80mm panaflo's in your case for circulation(5$ each, no noise at all), and you will have a cool, silent PC. No o/c'ing (not much, a little bit), but quiet as an intel most of the time.

So if u want intel, thats fine. but whining about the noise isnt going to help it. get a little creative and solve the problem.
one day you will be an experienced o/c'er and go watercooling, than u get a near silent highly o/c'ed pc.

-Malakai
 
I remember someone having over 20*C above what the real temp was. I understand your anger though....

elysium
 
I got 10 degree drop by

simply reverseing my cpu sink fan. My original set up with T-bird 1400mhz and a coolmaster cpusink and fan turning 5000rpm I was 61 under load 55 idle, when I put the Volcano G7 brand new on I had reversed the fan to pull the air away from the sink, that got me 40,24 idle 41/25 load. Think of it like this, the heat from the cpu goes to the sink, why blow the hot air from the sink back onto the cpu and motherboard. Any cpu fan when reversed should give you at least a 5 degree drop. good luck
 
Re: I got 10 degree drop by

Règµ£åR«ØÐM» said:
simply reverseing my cpu sink fan. My original set up with T-bird 1400mhz and a coolmaster cpusink and fan turning 5000rpm I was 61 under load 55 idle, when I put the Volcano G7 brand new on I had reversed the fan to pull the air away from the sink, that got me 40,24 idle 41/25 load. Think of it like this, the heat from the cpu goes to the sink, why blow the hot air from the sink back onto the cpu and motherboard. Any cpu fan when reversed should give you at least a 5 degree drop. good luck

sorry man, but it doesnt work like that, most of the time you wont see a drop, there is prolly an external factor at work dropping your temps.

-Malakai
 
reversed fan

It'd work even better if it pushed the hot air out of the case thru a duct. Not all heatsinks will respond that way with reversed fans, but its usually worth a shot just to see.
 
well personally not to rain on your parade, i think itis YOUR fault for the most part. ID bet that you do not have the correct airflowe setup, of have tried to optimize your air flow path or the space that you have availible in the case.

(all these are just thing i do)
#1. Try rounded cables, or just do it youself..or send em to me and ill do it for free.

#2. Im sure that there are also power wires (red/back/yello) for video card and cdrom HD, floppy whatever. Also get some spiral wrap or some split loom and make those wires take up as much space as possible, less space for parts is more space for air. I personally dont spend $$ on loom or wrap, i just use colored electrical tape depending on case colors.

#3. I use black or colored zip ties to keep wires that are already rounded, from hanging out of the way and blocking more airflow.

#4. As most cases have holes for intake/exhaust fans, they also have grills built in (not the silver ones that screw in) but just part of the case chassis that has been cut out to allow airflow. Those grills are NOT small or thin by ANY means, take the case apart and cut them totally out and if you must (i dont use grills in the rear) add some of the thin silver ones. That WILL allow for roughly 20% more cfm to flow from each fan using one of those holes.

#5. What alot of people overlook is, negative or positive air pressure. You cna have all the cfm in the world but if it is not equal intake/exhaust then it will not perform as well as it CAN.
Normally when using case fans there is 1-2 intake and 1-2 exhaust and the PS fan. Technically you would be best using the same # of fans for in and out, and use the EXACT same fan to ensure the EXACT same cfm to be as equal as possible. But you have to account for the normal 20-25cfm PS fan. Having positive pressue is what you want if you must hae it unequal (it is always better to have more cool air going in than warm air getting sucked out) NEGATIVE=warm air out=temp not rising but also nit dropping=not enough cool air being introduced to the case/hs. POSITIVE=cool air in=temp not rising from the exhaust & dropping if possible=cooler than chip/hs air being introduced to the case/hs.

So what i did was use 2 47cfm(47cfm 39db high fow Panaflo 80mm's) fans for intake giving me-94 cfm intake, and 2 37 cfm(37 cfm 38 db high flow Sanyo Denki 80mm's) fans for exhaust giving me-74 cfm exhaust, and i had previously calculateed my Enhance PS 80mm fan at 20cfm. Addind that into exhaust giving me also 94-cfm of total exhaust. Being 100% equal

my chip temps are usually 38-39c idle(ambient is 25c 99% of time) withing 5 minutes from a cold boot, and after a 12 hr load at a speed of 1733 (from a default of 1600) and a vcore of (1.825). I am running a TINY 60mm Millenium Glaciator HS that has ONLY a 29cfm 60mm fan. Using as3 andi have NEVER and i mea NEVER seen over 40c load for even days at a time.

ergo: the chip is hot yes but it does not mean it cannot see reasonalbe temps. If you go to Intel you will be dissapoined if youve been computing long, and the performace will be noticeable unless you get a p4 2.2@ 2.8 or so but then you pockets will be hurting also.

but again, just my2c what the heck do i know.
 
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I have had, 3 Athlons, in different mobos, and have used all sorts of Heatsinks. I still use a stock HSF on one of them.

I have NEVER had temp problems like that. I think that the temp sensor is inaccurate, and you are getting upset over nothing.

Specifically, with reference to the Volcano 7, I have one of those and it does a great job. It would be impossible to have temps that high with a Volcano 7 on there, especially with the side off.
 
Do some abit boards read 10-20 degrees celcius to high as well? I've gotten an Abit NV&-133R (nforce) and my temps are reading 61-68 degrees celcius. On other boards including a soltek sl75drv2 and Abit kt7a I recieved temps (with the same CPU) of 40-50 degrees celcius. My cpu cooler is a thermaltek volcano 6cu+ with a 5000 rpm fan on it. Also I have the latest bios version for this board and a case that is cooled much better then the other ones were. If this is the problem is there a way to fix it?
 
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you have a stock heatsink...no wonder temps are so high...did you think you would be like 5 over ambient? why dont you go out and get an alpha pal 8045, or ax 7....that would keep it nice and cool....its not your chips fault, its your heatsinks...and the board readings are off, so get a digidoc, and see what it really is
 
dont knock it til you try it

I have done alot of reading in this forum, and really wouldnt post something unless I thought it was worthy, I am dead serious about my temp decrease, got my info from Toms hardware guide, a side note, all cpu sink and fans tested with fan reversed and an increase of 1000 rpms produced a minumum of 5 degree temp drop idle, all I did was remove the coolmaster, apply arctic silver III, and put the G7 with fan reversed on, room temp is exacly the same, I went from 55/34 idle to 40/24, no kidding, so give it a try
its worth 9it if your not going up to the next step like water or peltier
 
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