Another example approach – Doug Leeper
Last year, I got tired of using costly silver/conductive paints.
In addition they were very messy/tedious/difficult to do.
Here is a photo of the poor man’s unlocking mechanism:
You *MUST* have a steady hand, a little bit of experience with
solder, and some patience.
Basically, polish up the gold pads of the L1 bridges nicely, then apply some solder to form balls on the pads – using flux and/or flux bearing solder is very important.
Use only electronics type solders, *DO NOT* use Acid core or plumber’s solder types.
When applying the solder, form small balls. 60/40 and 63/37
are typical electronics type solders (and refer to the lead/tin ratio).
Next, take some suitable fine stranded wire, spread the strands
out, and pre-tin the wire with solder. You can also use magnet
wire, but removing the insulation is for those whom are experienced
at it, or a glutton for punishment.
Use a piece of tape to hold the strand in place over each L1 bridge.
If you have a magnifying glass or microscope, I’d recommend it for
those who are getting old or those with failing eyes, it will help you
to see what you are doing – a lot!
Heat up those balls you’d placed on the L1 pads and use a suitable tool
to help guide the wire to the ball and to make fine adjustments. Do the
same for the other side. Cut the wire where it exits the ball, opposite of
the bridged area, on both sides.
For a good looking job, re-heat the solder
ball after cutting the wire, to get rid of the copper that shows after cutting
the strand. Putting a drop of additional electronics type flux, sometimes
referred to as RMA flux, on the ball will help produce a nice brilliant looking
solder joint. (Flux lifts and removes the oxides that are developed during
the solder process).
Clean the area well with Isopropyl Alcohol or specialty type flux removers,
sometimes a little brush, commonly referred to an acid brush, or using a
soft toothbrush will aid in removal of the flux deposits.
I mixed up some epoxy and placed over the completed job, for protection
BTW, I’d not recommend this procedure for those who are not hardcore
geeks and have no soldering experience…
Ed note: Also check out Doug’s website HERE.