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Finally Going Cold

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Aye; perhaps I misspoke and it's not oxidation. There isn't any green on it, just not-bright-copper. See the pic above; it's the same on the outside as on the inside. Not shiny, but definitely not statue-of-liberty green.

It got significantly shinier when I applied and scrubbed with a little ketchup at lunch. Just needs some salt to help with the more-tarnished spots tonight.
 
Exactly. I'm not saying there is zero oxidation, but the signs of oxidation on copper are usually a green color (read: Statue of Liberty) and powder as with all oxidation. We're working on chemical compounds in Chemistry and Cupric Oxide was a green powder. ;)
 
It's just a thin surface layer of oxidation, it takes a pretty thick layer to turn green.
 
Haha, they're coming in a bit. Ketchup didn't turn out shiny. It got rid of the dark oxidataion, but it's not exactly a shiny piece of copper. No polish though and it will be under insulation anyway. :D

Give me an hour'ish and I'll get some pics up.
 
Can't yet, and sorry no pics yet. Working with it to get the HDD ready for benching. Will get pics before the night is out. Rushing before the pot gets hot. :)


EDIT - OMG what a stupid mistake. I left auto-update on...so I go to shut it down, and what does it do? Install thirty-one updates!
 
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Ok, whew...BIOS said 54°C after that little fiasco. Had a ultra high speed panaflo pointed at the pot and was holding a HS yate over top of 1/2 of the pot blowing cold air in and venting warm air out. Pots SUCK at being air cooled.

Before the base heated up though, it was a cool 32°C in the OS while installing the graphics driver. :)

Aaaaannnyway, as promised, here are pics. :)

My first pot, disassembled. It seems to be a stout piece of hardware, but have no basis for comparison.

duniek-custom-1.jpg

Assembled pot.

duniek-custom-2.jpg

...and installed pot.

pot-installed-1.jpg

pot-installed-2.jpg

Unfortunately I think circumstances are forcing actual use of this lovely setup to wait until next week. :chair:
 
Don't have springs unfortunately, but there's plenty of pressure as evenly distributed as I can get it.
 
Very nice Jeremy.....that pot is SO HUGE with the extension :D

Looking forward to your show (I'll be there if possible) :thup:
 
Ok, whew...BIOS said 54°C after that little fiasco. Had a ultra high speed panaflo pointed at the pot and was holding a HS yate over top of 1/2 of the pot blowing cold air in and venting warm air out. Pots SUCK at being air cooled.


Actually, when I first got my DICE pot I was just as excited as you and tried the same thing. Air cooling does suck, BUT ice water keeps it better cooled than any air cooling. You have to use mostly crushed ice with a little bit of water to start out. You have to stir it fairly often once it starts melting. You'll only get like 15-20 minutes of benching done this way for two reasons. First, too much water in the pot, and second there will be so much condensation buildup that it's running all down the pot so make sure to put a couple paper towels down.
With this method, I got an I3 540 that would only do 4.9ghz on air to 5.1ghz. Hey, it worked :shock:
 
Very nice Jeremy.....that pot is SO HUGE with the extension :D

Looking forward to your show (I'll be there if possible) :thup:
The pot is definitely huge with the extension. It's not THAT huge though, compared to the base. The copper part above the drilled-out base is actually rather shallow and this will be great for preventing splashing/bubbling out of the acetone.

I'll take a photo of that sometime today. Duniek gave permission to show the internals and has no idea why people don't want them shown in the first place. My first interaction with him and he seems like a really nice guy! :thup:

As far as time, I'm thinking one weekday next week, probably Tuesday or Wednesday. From when the kid goes to bed (8:30'ish) until midnight EST.

Unfortunately that's the only time I have in one chunk to bench. I'm saving some (significant) time by loading the OS on an SSD and have decided to just use an already-prepped Win 7 install.

It's my first session and I don't want any added complication (i.e. additional OS'es). Probably will lose a couple tenths of a second here and there, but it feels smarter to go that route.

Actually, when I first got my DICE pot I was just as excited as you and tried the same thing. Air cooling does suck, BUT ice water keeps it better cooled than any air cooling. You have to use mostly crushed ice with a little bit of water to start out. You have to stir it fairly often once it starts melting. You'll only get like 15-20 minutes of benching done this way for two reasons. First, too much water in the pot, and second there will be so much condensation buildup that it's running all down the pot so make sure to put a couple paper towels down.
With this method, I got an I3 540 that would only do 4.9ghz on air to 5.1ghz. Hey, it worked :shock:

Haha, that's funny. Hopefully I won't have to do much more without it being cold. Since it's set up and contact is good, the only thing that bracket is coming off for is to add neoprene sleeving. :thup:
 
Haha, i like it!

Here are a couple internal photos. From the insulation (which buries ~1/2-3/4" of the pot base) to the top of the pot is 10.5". From the top of the drilled holes inside to the top of the pot is 8.25"

pot-internals-1.jpg

pot-internals-2.jpg
 
Nice lookin' pot. Would it be more heat transfer efficient if you had thick pins going up into the slurry/LN2 instead of drilled holes or is the TIM the limiting factor here?
 
That one's a bit over my head and best answered by those with a lot more experience.

All I know is that there are pots (like Koolance's V2) that have stepped up holes - ones drilled around the outside and the level of copper gets higher and higher until the middle. Pic of its base:

cpu-ln2-v2_p2.jpg


All pots I've seen have holes drilled down though, presumably to get the LN2/acetone as close to the CPU as possible, while still increasing surface area. No idea whether pins would help, but they may hinder stirring, which is a necessity with DICE I believe.

If you come up with a design and find a machine shop (or person with the requisite tools) to make it, I'm sure you'd have plenty of volunteers to see how it works. ;)
 
+1, there are a lot of bases that are a combination of both, but holes is the most common. Hell the new bases for the Gemini are almost all holed bases. They must be good. :shrug:
 
Mostly i think it's that it is far easier (and therefor cheaper) to drill holes then it is to machine metal away from spikes.
Cast metal is, apparently, too brittle and tends to crack.
 
Nice setup. I'll hopefully be doing this soon enough with a new set of mushkins and my f1ee. Did you put the sticky side down or up for the frost king? Are you going to use any grease/vaseline on the board/socket? And my final question is does everyone else have as much of a ****** time getting the tinfoil off the insulation or is it just me?
 
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