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15 hours Prime Stable okay?

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CompuTamer

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I ran prime 95 Small FFT for 15 hours... and then around 15:30, it locked up... should i be worried about it? The stuff i do would never put that large of a load on the computer for that long, so as far as i can tell, it's stable, i'm just not sure if it really is... could it randomly crash on me?
 

doz

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Run blend in Prime95 w/ i7. Ive found that blend will stress the entire system a bit better.

I suggest full RAM in LINX for 20 passes + 4 hours P95. If you can handle that, I highly doubt anything you do will crash.

Passing for 15 hours then crashing means slight instability. Id give it a go at 20 full RAM in LINX and if it passes, call it good to go.

Everyone has different ideas of stable. Some are happy if their computer can game for 4 hours, others want 24+ hours of P95. I say if you can do whatever you do on your computer and leave it on for a month without it crashing, you are good to go :)
 

Neuromancer

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No such thing as a 100% stable system even at stock. Saw a formula I wish I could find that enterprises use to determine error rates in DRAM. (IT was to define what was an acceptable error rate)

If it does not interfere with what you do, than by all means leave it :)

However, if there is some applications that you need a 4 GHz i7 CPU for, you might also want to lower the OC to something that is "24 hour stable" to make sure that said program does not complete incorrectly.
 
OP
CompuTamer

CompuTamer

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It's running at 3.95 right now... 4.03 i had to bump the voltage up one more notch, and that made it run hotter than i like.

I'mma put it back to 4.03 when i get some TX-3 to put on the heatsink. Using the compound that came with the cooler, and, while it works, i'm sure there's better.

I'll go run Linx with full RAM now
 

Logikos

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Nov 30, 2009
Run blend in Prime95 w/ i7. Ive found that blend will stress the entire system a bit better.

I second that,.. Blend is the best for overall stress, esp. Memory errors.

doz said:
Everyone has different ideas of stable.

Amen!

I'm anal, I consider a crash in P95 after 15 hour a fail for 'ME' personally, and I make the necessary adjustments. Specifically, recently, (yesterday) I switched from stock air cooler to pre-packaged Corsair Water pump/radiator setup. It did the trick, and with the dramatic drop in temps allowed me to get where I wanted.

There have been times when I thought I JUST finally had it.. (because the majority of my fails are caught in the first minute, and then the rest in the first 10-15mins.. a very small percent fail many hours in. I personally consider a 24hr P95 run without crash stable for 'me'.

As Doz said, everyone has different opinions and ideas on what exactly 'stable' is.

I want mine stable in these intense programs that put more pressure on your system than YOU will ever put on it in your personal use -- but, there is a very real possibility , *if your RAM is the fault for the instability*, that memory addresses get written incorrectly, changed, and corrupted. Resulting in HD corruption and corrupting, conceivably anything that resides on your Drives (HD/SSD --anything that can be written--).. Not a high probability of that occuring if it is a slight error that happens 15hours into a , again, load you won't produce yourself in normal use by chance. But, I've had corruption occur on a few computers (one of mine, and many clients) that just makes things messy. Usually a result of failing components,.. ie: HD, RAM, etc that is either old, or are failing for some other reason.

But, the call is up to you. If your heat wall is putting you on the threshold of stability in P95,.. you could make some very slight modifcations in airflow/cooling and solve that very simply. I would run the Memtest ISO v4+ (burn it (as bootable image) then boot it) and let it run a few passes with the setup you have now, just to check that part out thoroughly.

Good luck,
 

Bobnova

Senior Member
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May 10, 2009
To me, that would be stable enough. But that's just me, and just like everybody else i have a different opinion of stable.

I'm much more concerned with ram stability then CPU. If the CPU starts deciding that half the zeros should be ones the system goes splat, and nothing is damaged (except anything being written to HDD when it went splat) If the RAM decides it, you can end up with a corrupted OS (and hard drive in general), like Logikos said above me. That is bad. Of course, if you're an older user and remember win95/98 even a corrupted OS isn't that scary, 95/98 did it all by themselves without outside help :p I used to get 9-12 months per install, tops.
 
OP
CompuTamer

CompuTamer

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Well... Linx failed on the 19th pass, so i went ahead and bumped the voltage up... it peaks at 83C, but that's the worst i've seen so far... i think some TX-3 would handle that, instead of the stuff that came with the Xiggy, right?

And i remember 95/98... that was back in the days that i hated computers lol

Since XP, everything is a lot easier to handle though... my OS doesn't go BOOM on its own anymore :D
 

Logikos

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Well... Linx failed on the 19th pass, so i went ahead and bumped the voltage up... it peaks at 83C, but that's the worst i've seen so far... i think some TX-3 would handle that, instead of the stuff that came with the Xiggy, right?

And i remember 95/98... that was back in the days that i hated computers lol

Since XP, everything is a lot easier to handle though... my OS doesn't go BOOM on its own anymore :D

Yeah, 83 isn't going to fry it.. but that would be a little too warm for my own comfort.

I don't know how you are on money, and the ability and willingness to take your PC apart.. but if you have 60-70$,.. I *highly* recommend this sleek, miniature water cooler setup by Corsair. As I mentioned, I believe,.. it lowered my temps by ~40degree's over the stock HSF. It sounds like your temps are about as efficient as the stock HSF.. so this would do you wonders.

Just up to you, takes a few hours to install and is 60-70$.. but I know it is worth every penny for the results. I was not expecting my temps to go from 74-75 degree's at 100% load to 34-36 degree's at full load. It comes with the thermal grease perfectly applied (and is capped until you are ready to mount it on the chip (which is the last step and it goes in the bracket and you turn it slightly and thats it.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010&Tpk=H50

But, I've said enough about a 'newegg product'. I'm not selling the things lol..

Let us know what you end up figuring out.
 
OP
CompuTamer

CompuTamer

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I JUST got the dark night a few days ago... it's certainly better than stock, but i do think that it should be able to handle more... i'll remount it when i get some TX-3 in... first time mounting a after market heatsink, so it's REALLY likely i messed it up when i mounted it.

I got this cause it was cheap, and better than stock... push pin broke on the stock cooler, so i REALLY needed a cooler... i was really looking into the H50 though.

I'll remount this one and see what i come up with... if nothing seems to be getting better, than i'll go ahead and order the H50 for christmas.
 

Neuromancer

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Yeah, 83 isn't going to fry it.. but that would be a little too warm for my own comfort.

I don't know how you are on money, and the ability and willingness to take your PC apart.. but if you have 60-70$,.. I *highly* recommend this sleek, miniature water cooler setup by Corsair. As I mentioned, I believe,.. it lowered my temps by ~40degree's over the stock HSF. It sounds like your temps are about as efficient as the stock HSF.. so this would do you wonders.

Just up to you, takes a few hours to install and is 60-70$.. but I know it is worth every penny for the results. I was not expecting my temps to go from 74-75 degree's at 100% load to 34-36 degree's at full load. It comes with the thermal grease perfectly applied (and is capped until you are ready to mount it on the chip (which is the last step and it goes in the bracket and you turn it slightly and thats it.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010&Tpk=H50

But, I've said enough about a 'newegg product'. I'm not selling the things lol..

Let us know what you end up figuring out.

I want to see some proff of that.

I am running a 655 pump a black Ice 4x120mm GTX radiator, 4 3000RPM ultra Kaze fans, and Apogee GTZ water block

With my rad in the windows on a cold cold night I have hit 45C with a small load. Normally loads are in the 60s
 

doz

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34-36c full load is nearly impossible. You are looking at around a 15c minimum on some of the better water cooling systems of rise in temperatures over ambient.

Thats with ATLEAST a VERY GOOD 360/480 radiator w/ good pressure fans. I know the Corsair H50 isnt much better than GREAT air cooling. You must be at about 0* F
 

Bobnova

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May 10, 2009
I thought the Corsair H50 is on par with a megahalems/lapped-TRUE. It's only a 120mm radiator, it can't be that great.

The Dark Knight should be much better then stock, not just a little.
Try re-seating it, and draw a tiny line of TIM down each heatpipe. That is the method that works the best for me.
 

Bobnova

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May 10, 2009
Like i said, I have found what works best for me, one tiny line down each heatpipe.
When i say tiny, i mean tiny.
 
OP
CompuTamer

CompuTamer

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Yeah, i'm pretty sure i have a bad mount.
I'll have to let it run until thursday or so, and then i'll order some new fans and some TX-3 to put on and see what that does
 

Logikos

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Nov 30, 2009
The H50 is a top notch cooler. So are many air heatsinks. If your still on stock cooling and if you plan to OC, yep, upgrade.

Here is a site for great heatsink reviews, pretty much the standard.

http://www.frostytech.com/

Good stuff.. and yes I'll put my money on the H50 vs any air cooler. I am biased of course. But Water > Air by common sense.. I am sure there are some very poorly designed and manufactured WC setups on the market that do a poor job. Also some well designed WC setups that the person installing fails at doing a proper job and ends up with less than optimal results, but good 'enough' results to be stable.

At any rate,.. I am still in awe of how such a cheap component (cooler) made such a huge impact on my system. I don't get that much bang for the buck often. 60-70$ might sound expensive, but anyone with cooling issues and even remotely thinking of OC'ing, should strongly consider it. Though, it isn't the only thing out there -- as I said before, a more expensive WC setup should, obviously, be better. Bigger better faster more.. right? :)
 
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Logikos

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Nov 30, 2009
I want to see some proff of that.

I am running a 655 pump a black Ice 4x120mm GTX radiator, 4 3000RPM ultra Kaze fans, and Apogee GTZ water block

With my rad in the windows on a cold cold night I have hit 45C with a small load. Normally loads are in the 60s

Proof,.. sure. It is just temperatures, I have no reason to lie about it. :-/

Anyhow, this is with Corsair H50 with 2 , 120mm case fans (Upgrading to 4x140mm in a few days.. but that is besides the point here).

First..Stock temps (It is really overclocked, because Intel has a feature to bump the multiplier up from 20 to 21 when the load goes beyond a certain point. (Can be turned off.. but I don't mind.. so test is run at 2.8Ghz instead of 2.67Ghz).




Stock Idle Temperature(s):

stockidle.jpg


Stock Full [100%] Load Temperature(s):

stockfullload.jpg


4.01Ghz OC Stable Idle Temperature(s)

4ghzidle.jpg


4.01Ghz OC Stable Full [100%] Load Temperature(s):

4ghzfullload.jpg



That is with Prime95, 15minutes per 'load' test.. (Reaches its max thermal by that time).

The results speak for themselves,.. I don't know what to say,.. It lowered my temps dramatically. I didn't expect these kind of results from a boxed product for $65.00-$70.00.

Take care,
 
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Logikos

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Nov 30, 2009
34-36c full load is nearly impossible. You are looking at around a 15c minimum on some of the better water cooling systems of rise in temperatures over ambient.

My results are posted.. 34-36 is a bit on the low end,.. But we can safely compromise on 40c at load, as is shown in pictures.. and that is taking the hottest core. (My core 1 and 3 are always a bit higher than 2 and 4).

Shocked me too.. I would be hard pressed to believe this product would produce these results. :)

Thats with ATLEAST a VERY GOOD 360/480 radiator w/ good pressure fans. I know the Corsair H50 isnt much better than GREAT air cooling. You must be at about 0* F

I'm not sure how to respond here due to not having personally researched or tested all the top of the line HSF's out there.

But, I will take a 'guess' that this is better than any Air cooler, because it is Water cooling.. and well made. Good design, and better thermal dissipation design = better.

Now how much better is this than the "greatest" air cooler HSF? Which is going to be something like , I imagine, all copper, very big, very high producing fan (over 100CFM).. just a monster I'm sure, and I'm sure it isn't cheap. For what you can pay for that 'best' air cooler I bet you could get the H50.. or is the Best air cooler on the market still under $65? Regardless.. for the price, the performance results speak for themselves.

I did take extreme care with this project.. and I did remove the factory thermal compound (which was perfectly applied) for aftermarket. Though even with a perfect setup I don't think it makes a huge difference in performance. Other than if someone doesn't set it up properly it will make a large difference in performance (ie: Improper seating of the block on the chip.. etc.. lots of subtle things that could impede performance of a WC system vs a hunk of metal and a fan)

Have a great week man,
 
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Logikos

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Nov 30, 2009
I thought the Corsair H50 is on par with a megahalems/lapped-TRUE. It's only a 120mm radiator, it can't be that great.

Not trying to take over the thread here -- just responding.. :)

But 120mm radiator, small in comparison to most WC setups,.. but surprisingly efficient .. at least in my direct experience.

I posted the results.. I consider them 'great'. Though, just like we were talking at the beginning of this thread.. People have different versions/opinions on what words are. IE: What 'stable' means to you, might not me.. same for 'great' in this case. ;)

OP:

Let us know how things are turning out with your tweaking.. you should definitely be able to get those temps down.