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15 hours Prime Stable okay?

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Gotta say those results are impressive for the cost, but I agree with everyone that the numbers don't make sense. It shouldn't be performing that well..

Apparently the Corsair H50 performs much better when mated with a pair of 120mm fans in push/pull and makes for about a 5c drop in idle; and load temps and most seem to be going that way and also installing so the heat it still exhuasted out the rear of the case.

Pretty good chart here with one versus two fan config - http://www.xbitlabs.com/misc/picture/?src=/images/coolers/corsair-h50/tablt.png&1=1

They're using more voltage than most for that kind of overclock, so mid 60s load temps might be possible with a pair of ~1300rpm fans and lower-end voltage. I have load temps around 72c with my setup (see sig), but that's also at 4.2GHz, but with 1.2875v - a pretty substaintial drop from 1.35v.

So the H50 looks pretty good until about 1.36v when the single rad becomes inefficient and air coolers start performing better. Sub 1.3v settings to the CPU is probably the sweet spot - maybe up to 1.35v at most.

What cpu voltage setting are you using Logikos?
 
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Whats your ambient temps? Also, stock non-overclocked voltage I understand low temps (especially when you show us it when its not even running its rated speed and voltage lol).

Besides that, you are still idling at 20c. Ambient must be minimum 15c, which is quite low and can bring temps down. 15c and I will load at less than 50c.
 
lemme put it this way... wats the longest time your computer is every on? My computer failed prime after 3 hours but it doesn't worry me cause im never doing anything at full load for more than 3 hours
 
Logikos, if you are replying to several posts in the same thread, you can click the "quote +" button and it will quote each post in the same response. That way, you don't have to fill the thread up with consecutive posts.

Now, I have no idea what the typical temps are like for the 1156 i5 and i7 CPUs are like, but I can confidently say that to achieve temps as low as 20*C, you have to have some pretty low ambient temps. I would love to see how a top-end air cooler would perform under the same conditions.

That brings me to my next point; the Corsair H50 has been shown to perform on par with the top air coolers like the TRUE1 120 and Prolimatech Megahalems, and costs about the same or more. The Corsair H50 will also suffer from all the same problems that any other water setup will, like the pump going bad, fluid leaking or evaporating, etc. An air cooler, on the other hand, will basically last as long as you could ever need it to. Not that it's a bad cooler, but for those reasons I personally wouldn't recommend the H50.

And another thing to note, OP has a 1366 i7, which normally runs hotter than the 1156 i5 and i7. Temps of 83*C are perfectly fine for a 1366 i7 and really, you still have quite a bit of headroom with that. Perhaps the Corsair H50 is beginning to reach its limit with the 1366 i7's TDP but does a better job with a smaller chip like the i5; I don't really know, though. Just putting it up there.

Back on-topic:
With i7, small FFTs isn't very helpful. Large FFTs stresses the i7 WAY more and is much better for testing for CPU stability. And yes, stability is in the eye of the beholder.

To me, any instability is an instability. If a stability test fails, I don't know why I would ignore it and consider it stable anyhow, at least when below 24 hours of Prime testing (and small FFTs, at that). If you think 15 hours is enough for you, then go ahead and try it. If you encounter any problems, make some adjustments and try again.
 
Gotta say those results are impressive for the cost, but I agree with everyone that the numbers don't make sense. It shouldn't be performing that well..

Shrug -- I agree, impressive, and I agree they seem too good to be true for what it is. I've said a few times, I was and still am shocked. But the numbers don't lie.

Apparently the Corsair H50 performs much better when mated with a pair of 120mm fans in push/pull and makes for about a 5c drop in idle; and load temps and most seem to be going that way and also installing so the heat it still exhuasted out the rear of the case.

Maybe so.. I don't install that way though for these results.

I use a 1500-1600rpm 120mm fan pulling cool air from the outside to the radiator on the inside of the case (that is on the ground). I do not have a second fan pushing against this on the other side of the radiator. If it would improve temps I might consider it, but temps are more than stable for now.

I have the single 120mm pulling air from the outside, as is shown in picture (if you know how the H50 has to install you know how it has to mate against a fan).. and I have the 120mm exhaust above (exiting the top of the case) -- simple principle of hot air rises. Using thermodynamic air flow principles.. Cool intake on lower front, then aforementioned exhaust on top. In the middle is the radiator fan that has little to do with case flow as it is directly blocked by the radiator block itself.

What cpu voltage setting are you using Logikos?

I run 1.36v with my 4.011Ghz setup that is shown above.

Whats your ambient temps? Also, stock non-overclocked voltage I understand low temps (especially when you show us it when its not even running its rated speed and voltage lol).

Huh? I don't have a thermometer in my case,... but ambient temps in the house run between 21 and 22c -- in the case it is lower due to cooling, so it makes sense that idle would be lower, slightly. Which it is. With the AC on it will be 18-19c.

I posted stock temps because that was asked! It was a direct part of the conversation and something someone didn't 'believe'... I posted my overclocked temps as well.. I posted it ALL so there wouldn't be any of this 'doubt' or comments like you just mentioned. I knew it was coming.

The Intel i5 at Idle runs drops the multiplier to 9xFSB -- It is just smart/energy efficient like that. Immediately upon sensing load it goes to proper clock speeds. Which if you look in the images again, you will see idle 9xFSB.. 100%load.. 21xFSB. Make sense now?

And I'm still baffled with the voltage comment... where are you getting this not running at rated voltage?

Everything is running at specification, and OC'ed to specs I say.

Besides that, you are still idling at 20c. Ambient must be minimum 15c, which is quite low and can bring temps down. 15c and I will load at less than 50c.

So? The temps this is produced at, is inside a home. And were actually with the heat on because it is winter time. So it isn't going to get any hotter in regards to ambient temps. This isn't a competition anyways.. :) -- I am just backing up claims, one time.



lemme put it this way... wats the longest time your computer is every on? My computer failed prime after 3 hours but it doesn't worry me cause im never doing anything at full load for more than 3 hours

I never turn it off. When I change a setting and test for stability my routine goes like this.

Prime95 Blend Torture for 15 minutes initial.. if pass , stop. Boot with Memtest ISO,.. Run for ~hour. If pass,.. Run Prime95 for 24hours straight. If no errors, I consider it completely stable.

If a setting errors out after 8 hours of P95, I won't keep it. But I am just anal like that.


Logikos, if you are replying to several posts in the same thread, you can click the "quote +" button and it will quote each post in the same response. That way, you don't have to fill the thread up with consecutive posts.

Thank you! Most helpful response yet! :D

Now, I have no idea what the typical temps are like for the 1156 i5 and i7 CPUs are like, but I can confidently say that to achieve temps as low as 20*C, you have to have some pretty low ambient temps. I would love to see how a top-end air cooler would perform under the same conditions.

Well the i5 and i7's are very common around here.. but the H50 isn't so common 'yet'.. I think that is where the perplex is here: Very low temps with a WC setup that isn't a monster Radiator, full-tower, etc etc.. (typical) water setup. Instead it is a 2hour Corsair 120mm block/pump/radiator/fan/input-ouput plumbing and wiring (with MB backplate, rings, and so on) that is producing results closer to what a bigger rig WC setup does. Just unexpected is all.

If my ambient temps are so low then it is only because of the way I built my computer. I spent alot of care on airflow, cable management and so on (and have 4x140mm fans otw to replace the 2 of the 120's and to add 2 side fans for further cooling to drop temps further *and noise*)..

My point is.. the temps in the computer room aren't 'cold' or 'frigid' .. hardly.. they are warmer than most other rooms because of the computers in the room producing the heat. I would say an easy 22c.. perhaps 22-23ish. It is the location in the corner, on the ground where the air is coolest, and on a self built heat dissipating platform (I built due to the bottom mount PSU, not wanting it to pull off of carpet),.. and the airflow inside the case.

IE: I don't have this Rig hanging out the window where it is 0c, to run these tests lol. (Would be fun to do though).

Top end air coolers -- aye,.. I would love to see what the best of the best (loud as hell) air coolers do with a 4Ghz OC i5 on 100% load temps in P95.

That brings me to my next point; the Corsair H50 has been shown to perform on par with the top air coolers like the TRUE1 120 and Prolimatech Megahalems, and costs about the same or more. The Corsair H50 will also suffer from all the same problems that any other water setup will, like the pump going bad, fluid leaking or evaporating, etc. An air cooler, on the other hand, will basically last as long as you could ever need it to. Not that it's a bad cooler, but for those reasons I personally wouldn't recommend the H50.


I'll have to respectfully disagree on some points here.

The H50 will not suffer the exact fate as any other WC setup. It is sealed. ..And due to it being sealed, the Water should not evaporate nearly as easily.. perhaps not at all. .. but it isn't quite the same as self plumbed WC setups. Yes, the pump can go bad,. so can a fan motor. Fluid can leak, yes.. so can bearing grease.. but again, the design of this mass manufactured 'already built and sealed' design prevents alot of those common "over-time" flaws. I would personally guess the pump motor would die before the fluid leaked or evaporated in this setup. And the pump is rated for many , many years.

A fan will not last as long as you ever need it to. It, like any other 'moving part' is subject to wear and tear.. and will and do break down. I can't tell you how many fans I have replaced on just about every conceivable piece of computer equipment you can think of. They go bad over time.. just like anything else. No, usually not for 4-5+ years.. but they go bad.. (bad is really the wrong word.. 'wear out' is more accurate'.) -- I fully expect to replace this in 3-5 yrs... Likewise I usually build another computer before that time frame has passed, and will clock this computer back to stock, and if this fails put a stock HSF on it.

And another thing to note, OP has a 1366 i7, which normally runs hotter than the 1156 i5 and i7. Temps of 83*C are perfectly fine for a 1366 i7 and really, you still have quite a bit of headroom with that. Perhaps the Corsair H50 is beginning to reach its limit with the 1366 i7's TDP but does a better job with a smaller chip like the i5; I don't really know, though. Just putting it up there.

Good point,.. I'll take your word for it -- I haven't researched the temp differences on the 1366 sockets vs 1156.

Back on-topic:
With i7, small FFTs isn't very helpful. Large FFTs stresses the i7 WAY more and is much better for testing for CPU stability. And yes, stability is in the eye of the beholder.

To me, any instability is an instability. If a stability test fails, I don't know why I would ignore it and consider it stable anyhow, at least when below 24 hours of Prime testing (and small FFTs, at that). If you think 15 hours is enough for you, then go ahead and try it. If you encounter any problems, make some adjustments and try again.

Good advice..
 
↑ longest post ever :p

And i got the voltage down another notch, but i dropped it to 3.9. topping out around 78C now, and that makes me a lot more comfortable... and sane without a CPU fan screaming at me non stop lol
 
Are you kidding me? How can your Corsair cooler run cooler than ambient? It CANNOT..... Your cooler is a BASIC watercooler, nothing more. It is no more sealed than our systems.

Something doesnt seem right... Sorry ranting a bit
 
Compu: Glad to see you're stabilizing out.. I never could stand the fans pushing the extreme CFM's along with the extreme dB's.. Anything over 30dB's is annoying to me now.. I push for practical silence now best I can achieve it. I know backing that down is a must. ;)

As for all this fuss over my cooling,.. look,.. I'm sorry it makes you mad... I'm not in this to create controversy, disbelief, or god forbid anger. Come on now. I went an extra step to prove temps to you,.. you can choose to believe or not believe it is real. Test the shots for "alteration" aka: "photoshoping" .. etc. Or you could choose to believe I'm really using dry ice or some other 'out there' method of cooling to reach whatever temp is bothering you. But the honest truth is , it is just a good setup, built well.. and rebuilt half a dozen times over the span of a week. I might even report back with lower temps later this week as I add more case cooling which will lower ambient temps 'inside the case'. Though maybe it won't.. nonethless it will help with temps on the GPU/Memory/HD and so on.

Also, the principles of radiated cooling apply here:

Since water has a relatively high specific heat, it takes a lot of energy to make its temperature go up. Not so with the atmosphere of your house.

Basically, the cooler is very VERY efficient. It is keeping temps AT idle, *at stock* right at ambient temperature.. not necessarily below it.. though it can be slightly below it. The read out from the diodes can be slightly off, we know that.. so it can be reporting slightly off.. But think about it this way. If the cooler is more than enough (ie: overkill) for the temperatures of the CPU it is attached to.. then it will keep it exactly at ambient temperature.. the lowest it can possibly go to work with. Water retains thermodynamic properties MUCH longer than air. Water can retain temperature props from 5-10-15-24 hours prior. So the temperature of the water in the radiator can be 1-2c below that of ambient temperature due to the lower ambient temperature of the room the Night before..
Allowing the cooler , for a while, to cool slightly at or below ambient until it rises up to match again.

Also , if it is cooling at ambient,.. or in reality probably slightly above at Stock Idle.. which reported 20c. Then probably the true temperature of the core's are more like 20.2 or 20.3c .. however the temps are rounded up or down accordingly. If 5 and up.. UP.. 4 and down.. Down. Basic mathematics there.

Only explaining this small theory of TD to perhaps appease your somewhat baffled/angered? mentality of my setup.

Further,.. say this setup used a dual phase evaporative effect setup, it would further have reason to cool below ambient (though it doesn't).

Take a class on TD and you will be surprised what you'll find out can be done that previously seemed like it was breaking the 'laws of physics'. (I am not claiming to be a TD expert by any means.. just some general knowledge of it from college)

Compu:

Are you still going to try and get to or above the 4Ghz mark with your i7? You going to try any additional cooling options,.. if not -- What RPM is your fan running at.. and have any idea of approx. dbA?
 
No cooler can be below ambient without an active chiller. It's impossible.
 
Normally at idle the CPU fan is at it's minimum speed of 1100 RPM. Once the CPU is under load (only with prime 95, full load with anything else barely causes the RPM to rise) it slowely climbs up to about 1900-2200 RPM depending on if the Heat is on or not. (it blows practically straight into the front of my computer)

I'mma play around with the voltages/clocks some and see if maybe i can get it up to 4.0, but if not, that extra 100mhz won't kill me... the noise that the cooler generates at that point isn't really worth it. I may take it up there during summer when the AC is on, or i may rearrange my room some.

I have no clue what the dbs are, i just know that 2200 is reasonably quiet, but 2500 is pretty loud. Normally when i'm just rendering a video or something, or playing a game, the PSU fans gets louder than the CPU fan.

I've seen a few reports of the i5's running unreasonably cool though... i think there may be a sensor problem with some of the chips. It has happened before, but i'm not really here to bother with cooling and being below/at ambients... i can only dream of that lol
 
Keep in mind those 20c idle temps were with the i5 underclocked (probably C1E) to 1.2GHz, and probably less than 1v to the cpu as well.

I'm not here to bash the H50 - it looks like a pretty good cooler for the cost. It can be made even better with dual fans, just like standard heatsinks. As was mentioned, sure the pump can fail, but fans fail too; although not nearly as likely to cause damage with a standard heatsink, especially if two are used. H50 looks pretty decent. If anything it's a simple baby step into watercooling. I think Corsair's recommended mounting solution is dumb, as do lots of reviewers, but that can be fixed. It's probably a much better cooler for the i5 compared to the i7 as well.

As far as when one considers their rig stable, it's really up to you.. If you can perform standard windows tasks, play games, run some benchmarks, maybe Prime for several hours (maybe 8hrs at most), and don't walk into to your room and see that your computer has mysteriously rebooted, I'd call it good.
I usually Prime for about 6 hours, and if I can game and run benchmarks without any issue, I'm happy and call it good. I have had a CPU be Prime stable, but fail (lock) while gaming.
24hrs Prime stable is unnecessary in my opinion and not anywhere close to how you will run the system day-to-day. Exactly how often do you plan to run all your cores at 100% for 24 hour periods? Probably not often. If a lunar day lasted 28 hours then some wouldn't consider 24 hours enough - it would have to be 28 hours. I think it's overkill personally.
 
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Been said the 20c temps were stock.. stock = 9 x 133 at idle. That is how this chip runs,.. at idle, at stock. If someone were to lock it at 20 x 133 and call that stock it wouldn't be the design of the chip. But semantics,.. I never claimed anything other than what I reported. People just got bent out of shape for no reason.

As for the H50,.. I think it is a very good cooler for the cost,.. and I would argue to find me something that will cool my i5 at 4.011Ghz silently for cheaper? I don't see it happening. I didn't know they made a Water cooling setup that wasn't a huge hassle and not really portable etc. I don't believe the H50 is a common thing,.. I think it is a niche idea.. a smaller, mass produced , factory sealed, WC setup for processor only.

But enough of ranting about the H50 -- It is obviously good. Is it performing miracles,.. I doubt it =)

And as for overkill:

Well,.. over half of what I do to my 'new' systems are overkill.. why would stability be any different?

I have it running 100% load most of the day now joining a FAH farm... Being somewhat reliable is nice, especially under loads that produce heat.


Computamer -- I hear ya. Hitting a wall of 3.9 would bother me , personally.. until I could figure out a way to stabilize to 4ghz.. In your case that seems like changing a few things would easily nail it -- but it doesn't bother you, so like you said, in reality, the 100mhz doesn't matter.

If I thought that way, the 1.4-1.5Ghz x 4 shouldn't matter either. I had no plans to OC this rig several weeks ago. But, such is how it goes. I never would have OC'ed it either if I had to increase noise level from the stock silence.

Oh and some people don't consider 24hrs long enough :) -- I've witnessed it.
 
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