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2 unsuccessful unlocks

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youngbuck

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2002
Location
CO, USA
I have the CPU in my sig. I have tried to unlock it twice, using a white-out pen, and an Auto window defogger repair kit. Both time I will UNlock it successfully. I wil change the multis and fsb. It iwll be running great. Then I will eventually reboot my computer. After rebooting it once (first time) and rebooting it a few times after the second time, they unlocks seemed to become null and void.

I cant really remember what happened. I think each time the computer did not boot up. Then i cleared CMOS and rebooted. I then was no longer able to change mulitplier.

Now I am just OC'ing with it locked, which really sucks. I really wanted to take advantage of the 1/5 divisor. Any suggestions?
 

tbirdkiri

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2001
Location
nor-cal
yea... i ran into this too,

upon closer inspection, it looks like if you make contact with the little L1 label or the arrow next to it, it can mess up your stuff. i had to redo it all today for the same reason.
i will report back tomarrow if it does it again...
 

Yodums

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Location
Ottawa, Canada
I'm not sure a white out pen would be the best substance to fill your pit because it can be easily removed... For instance, put some on paper and when it dries you can use your nails to scratch it off. Also remember that area is hot so it may even heat up the thing.

On another note, have you tried scratching the L1's with a pin or something because they most likely have a protective coat on them whether it's brown or green -- I've seen both fail numerous times on an unlock because there was that coat. Or you can take high grit sandpaper (1000+) and sand it for like seconds...

Yodums
 

WarriorII

Moderator #666
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Location
Moderating
White out works fine here.
On a CPU, it's not on a flat surface, it's "filling" a grove.

Dries hard and is not conductive.

Stay at it, it took me 2 hrs to get mine right with a
10x jewelers scope.

my .02

:cool:
 

bongo

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2001
Location
Staten Island , NY
Yeah the defogger paint takes a little practice...
Just make sure each connection doesnt touch any other points than it should, and once you have the bridges painted sucessfully you want to cover them with clear tape and let the proc sit for a while.

btw: The whiteout is fine for filling the gapps
 
OP
Y

youngbuck

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2002
Location
CO, USA
Yea, white out seems to fill the pits pretty good. I know that the bridges surfaces are clean so that they make good contacts. I scratch them with my finger nail, rub it good with an eraser, and use alcohol pads (same application as acetone in this instance). I guess I should keep going.

I made my own pits (scracthed them in with a needle) inbetween the bridges that are side by side, so so as to make my own barrier... make connecting the bridges a little safer.

-YB
 

ChillPhatCat

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Location
Ballston Spa, NY
DO I need to isolate the first L1 from the L1 label? I've tried twice and I only have a choice between 8,8.5,10 and 10.5... very odd. I guess at this point though I'd just unlock if for the status LOL, I'm satisfied with 173x10 = 1730MHz and the prospect of 1848+ w/ better cooling.
 
OP
Y

youngbuck

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2002
Location
CO, USA
Yes, I think would definately recommend u isolate it from the L1 label... just think about it. If U didnt then data would be flowing stray towards the label, and u comp prolly wouldnt boot.