3/4 tubing all the way?

[Graywolfs]

Recently I just acquired myself a porsche Heatercore with 3/4inch inner diameter piping. I thought to myself, 'I can just get adaptors to change it over to 1/2'. But then I thought to myself again 'Can I make my entire system 3/4?' So here I am, asking you guys. I dont have a pump or waterblock yet, I was planning on a eheim 1250 and either a RBX or WW. Could I get myself replacement 3/4 barbs for both the pump and block? Im sure I can for the pump, and the extra diameter in the inlet will be nice to the pump, but I worry about the block. Would I break or hurt or disrupt anything if I take out the stock barbs and put bigger ones in? (Worrying about leaks, or the fact that the barbs might just be set into the block, and wont come out)

Thanks for any help.

Another thing, would two T lines help or hurt my system (im building a external WC case, and two T's would look better, but im wondering about 1) will it hurt performance?, and 2) would it make bleeding go faster? Thanks again.

-Josh

 

[Glaze132]

I can tell you from experience that two T's is way better than one. But I don't know if you would be able to use 3/4" barbs on an rbx because of the accelerator plate. And then if you want an nb or vpu block, you would a) have to make one yourself or b) reduce back down to half inch tubing. So I really think you should try to stretch your half inch tubing over your heatercore's inlet/outlets rather than putting barbs on it if you are able to do so.

 

[johan851]

I would agree with glaze, mostly. On my setup I used a couple sections of 5/8" ID tubing, because I have one 3/4" barb on my rad. That goes from the rad to the pump inlet to lower any inlet restriction.

 

[Muku]

run as much 3/4 as you can, it will be beneficial even if its not all 3/4 tubing. you should be able to get reducers for the block, just make sure the ID isn't even smaller than the blocks barbs. cuz then it just kills the advantage you just made

 

[johan851]

Yeah, that's what I did with my 5/8". It really won't make a huge difference though, at least not for most of your loop. It'll help the most at the pump inlet. The advantage to 1/2" ID tubing is that it's much, much easier to bend and move around inside your case. The bigger you get, the easier it is to kink.

 

[CrashOveride]

You could do it but most people have found the preformance benefit to be non existant or not worth the trouble of making it all work out in the case (bend around how you want it - like johan851 said). If you don't mind working with it go for it but I would personally drop it down to 1/2 for most of the system.

 

[kusojiji]

I used 3/4 inch stuff from a Dolphin DP560 pump to a 3/4 inch Y that was necked down to 1/2 inch. Used 1/2 inch to MCW5000 and DD Geforce 4 blocks. Recombined at a 3/4 inch Y to a 3/4 inch inlet heatercore. 5/8 out to a pvc reservoir and 1 inch to the pump suction. Worked like a champ until the pump died. Two 127 mm AC fans at minimum speed kept the temps at ambient during idle and 3 degrees C above ambient at full load for 1/2 hour.

 

[kusojiji]

Here's a photo of the Y's.

 

[kusojiji]

And here's the rig.

The pump couldn't handle 100v 50hz. It would run for about 30 minutes and then lock up.

I have an Eheim 1260 coming to replace it.

 

[kusojiji]

I have to agree that 3/4 inch stuff is difficult to work with in cramped spaces.

I don't think that there are too many waterblocks that can be modified to take 3/4 inch hosebarb. The swiftech MCW462-UH might be able to do it but that's about it.

My pump had enough power to work the parallel system. I could see the little bubbles whizzing through the tubing in both waterblocks. Necking down from 3/4 to 1/2 inch increased the speed and pressure going through the wbs.

 

[rogerdugans]

Bigger is Better as far as flow is concerned.
But it probably isn't worth killing yourself over unless you really plan on maxing the cpu out- probably not more than 3 or 4 c difference in temp.

As far as dual T-lines:
I use an air trap on top and have a lower T-Line with a valve:
In 15 minutes I can drain the system, replace my coolant, change cpu (if I want) and be back up and running again, with no air bubbles. Easily.

The lower T drains the H2O fast, air trap refills and bleeds fast as anything.
You do add restriction just by having a T fitting in the system, but if you plan on messing with things a lot its great to have a drain line.

 

[johan851]

Yeah, a drain line is a good idea...I've put up with so much hassle with draining my system that I decided to grab one. Holding your CPU block above a tubberware container and pulling off the tube tends to make stuff go everywhere...

 

[jlin453]

What exactly is a drain line?

 

[johan851]

Just a T-Line at the bottom of the setup instead of the top. Find a way to seal it off...then whenever you need to drain your setup you can just uncap/unplug it, and all your water should flow out.

 

[Xymurgy]

kusojiji, where'd you get a 3/4" wye? Reason I'm asking is I've been looking unsuccessfully for a 5/8" wye.

 

[Graywolfs]

I dont know if I wanted to make a new thread or not, so I just will add to this one.

Some more questions 1) can someone explain all the different fitting and tube stuff, like NPT? and what it has in correlation(sp?) with tube IDs (sorry, it wasnt in the Q&A). and
2) im gonna have a external WC case using two 120mm fans, will i see a benefit in using two? The HC's fin area is the length of two 120mm's, but i can make it work in my WC case, and if I do get two, should i get two low flow panaflo's, or two high flow's at 6V each (would run in series).
3) When i said two T lines, i meant for both at the top, one being at the inlet of the HC and one being at the outlet. Although i like the drain idea, my WC case will let me easily flip the case upside down and just drain it that way, which I think should work.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Xymurgy]

NPT is a thread standard. So you would screw a NPT barbed adapter to an NPT outlet.

You're saying you're going to put two 120's in series? Like a 120 fan blowing into the HC and a 120 sucking on the other side? I'm thinking that's a bad idea, since you have a lot of surface to get air on. Also, I'm sure your HC is 2" thick, which will require a good fan to drive air through all the fins. I'd say 2 x 120's would be good, but I'd use them right next to each other, and have them both blow air in/out.

I considered getting some 120's. I believe there's an aluminum 120mm fan out there that is adjustable, and fairly quiet.

About the two tees, I'd just stick with one. Adding any kind of resistance (such as barbs inside tubing) will decrease performance (albeit not much - but it will decrease). Also, it's just another place for leaks to happen. Maybe I can't visualize why you want two, but even for draining purposes, one will do.

 

[Graywolfs]

Here is my design:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/530357/CaseandWCcase2.JPG

The radiator is smaller than what I designed, so I will have to remake it, the REAL radiator is smaller, and I will fit a pump into that case as well. I am thinking of moving the inlet/outlet of the rad to the front of my case and have the t-line somewhere between the rad in/out and the pump (back of the case). This gives ya an idea of what im doing.

The two fans will be next to each other on the top, as the picture shows, running them in series (electrically that is, giving them both 6volts (12 / 2)

 

[rogerdugans]

Two T-lines at the top won't really do anything for you but it will add a bit more flow restriction. Just use one and place it as high in the system as you can.

Fans: more is better.
A rad that will take two 120mm fans side by side should have them. If you really want max performance use 4 (two per side.)

Louder fans tend to move more air at higher pressure, but they can be loud. Not all 12v fans will run at 6 volts though, so test them before commiting yourself! A rheobus will let you choose the level of noise/performance you want and I find them well worth the money ($20 to $50 USD.)

 

[Glaze132]

I am fairly certain if I understand what you are saying, that you think when putting two fans on the same line, the voltage will get split into two 6 volt parts. Voltage output is really a voltage differential like you have a 12v line where both fans plug in and then you plug the black ground wire into another ground wire that is 0 volts so the differential is actually 12v. But if you were to say put that black ground wire into a 5 volt line (a red wire from the PSU) then you will get 7 volts because if you take 12volts-5volts you get 7volts. So actually if you took had 12volts and put the ground in another 12volt then you would get 0volts.
Hopefully I was able to get my point across and I understood what you meant when you said you will put your fans in series.