#@!&%$#

[jimmsch]

I posted here on Saturday very excited about my temps after lapping my Tuniq and modding the NB on my mobo. My specs and OC is in my sig.

I tried going into my BIOS and setting the below OC to maybe get more out of my RAM.

Multi X8
FSB 375
Vcore 1.31
RAM timings 5-5-5-12-5 (Corsair specs)
RAM voltage 2.0
RAM speed 750

Windows loaded no problem, but when I ran Orthos after about 30sec the speakers made a loud screeching noise. The screen was frozen and speakers were screeching, so I hit the reset button.

I reset the BIOS to what my sig says as that has always been stable for me. No biggie, I think, except now my idle temps are 37 - 39. This is again too high for my liking.

It was a nice cool 34 - 36 before I tried boosting the settings to try to get more from my RAM. And I suspect it would have gone down once the AS5 cured.

Did I fry something? This really has me upset once again, however this time I am not blaming the Tuniq. I should have left well enough alone.

Does anybody have any idea how to get my temps back to the lower to mid 30's?

 

[S3CUR3]

What are your load temps? You should definitely be able to get more than 3Ghz out of an E6600. So long as load temps aren't out of the 50's, I'd call it good.

 

[jimmsch]

I am not trying to get more out of it, except maybe longer life exptancy. These temps are higher than they were when I had a Zalman 9500 installed. I purchased the Tuniq hoping to get my temps into the low 30s. I don't really care about getting more overclock or what the temps are on load. I know I can get 3.4ghz out of it and with the OC I have now I get load temps on Orthos in the mid 40s and TAT load temps in the low 50s. This is fine with me. I want the idle temps lower. I will never have this thing running on that kind of load anyway, but it will idle often.

All I ever wanted when I spent the $65 on the Tuniq was a 6 - 8 degree improvement in my idle temps from the Zalman, and it seemed like I had that after lapping the Tuniq and modding the NB, until I did what this thread is about.

The NB mod I did was to remove it and clean it up and apply some AS5 onto it. I also removed the stupid copper cover and super glued a small fan to the heatsink. The fan is glued to the side of it blowing toward the rear of the case.

So please do not tell me the temps are fine. I know they are safe and all. I bought the Tuniq to make them better then they were with the Zalman, and right now they are not. They were yesterday...but then I tried to push it and now they are not making me happy again.

Do you think maybe reseating the TT120 for a 4th time might help. What exactly happened when I ran orthos at the OC mentioned above and it squealed and hissed and froze? It was only after this that my temps got out of my happy range.

 

[custom90gt]

What all did you change in the bios to make orthos lock? Hissing has meant an unstable overclock on the cpu for me in the past (but usually happened when playing games).
Are your room temps the same as when you previously looked at TAT? 3*C difference in idle temps can be the result of a 1-2*c change in room temp.

 

[Moto7451]

Sounds like a change in room temp to me.

 

[jimmsch]

OK...I guess a change in room temp might be responsible then. I never have my room temp uncomfortable (to me) but I guess my wife was home this day and she could have turned up the heat. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[trodas]

It's interesting that you did not felt the higher room temp... Maybe it is a time to invest into thermometer to know the outside air temp - that way you know what is going on with your temps.
That is why some reviews not only mention/monitor these room temperatures during testing but also mention temperature rise of the tested heatsink/fan configuration. That way you can add your temp and the temperature rise to see where your temperatures with same CPU will be, using this same setup

 

[jimmsch]

I would never notice a 1 - 2 degree change in room temp.

What is interesting though is now I have a window open directly above the desk and cold January air blowing in and the temps have lowered. But the core 0 has lowered 3 degrees C and core 1 has only lowerred 1 degree C. Anyway I guess we can consider this a room temp issue and hope for the best.

I really want my core temps to be in low 30's C with my room temps in comfy high 60's F. I have read other threads where guys have the same mobo and HSF where they are pumping 1.4 - 1.5 vcore and they are in the range that I am looking for at 1.30 vcore. So I don't think I am asking too much.

 

[trodas]

Maybe a poor case ventilation?
Maybe they use better TIM?

 

[custom90gt]

I really want my core temps to be in low 30's C with my room temps in comfy high 60's F. I have read other threads where guys have the same mobo and HSF where they are pumping 1.4 - 1.5 vcore and they are in the range that I am looking for at 1.30 vcore. So I don't think I am asking too much.

Every chip is different. My first e6600 ran 10*C warmer then my 28b conroe regardless of what I did. I wouldn't worry too much about idle temps though, my cpu is always at 40-43*C thanks to FAH, and I'm sure it would run at those speeds and temps for years to come.

 

[jimmsch]

Maybe a poor case ventilation?
Maybe they use better TIM?

Excuse me for being ill informed. I am quite new to all this OCing stuff, and am very grateful I found this forum where everybody is extremely helpful and willing to share knowledge, but this is a new one to me.

What is TIM?

 

[IKIKUINTHENUTZ]

TIM has same meaning of thermal paste

 

[T1Cybernetic]

Excuse me for being ill informed. I am quite new to all this OCing stuff, and am very grateful I found this forum where everybody is extremely helpful and willing to share knowledge, but this is a new one to me.

What is TIM?

In answer to your question, thermal interface material (TIM)

 

[trodas]

What is TIM?

It's the suff that you placed between the CPU and the heatsink

There are different quality of TIM (usualy Arctic Silver 5 or Ceramique is used todays) and also it extremly much depend on how you apply it - the short and simple rule is as thin layer, as you can manage (usualy using expired creditcard or other usable thing) w/o "holes" in it and just "paint" a little the other side (usualy heatsink bottom) where the core will touch it. AS guide say to use a part of small PVC bag (for the "painting") in order to not leave any hairs there. Then make the contact, rotate the heatsink few anges CW and CCW and screw/apply the holders.
Then theremal cycles. Heat up few times the CPU as much as you can and then let it cool down to lowest possible temps. Guide recommend there even days of seating to get optimal temps, however usualy 5 or 6 these temp spikes for like 10 or 15 min and cool downs for the same time is enough to reach optimal temps.

That is about it.

Maybe a poor case ventilation?

Poor case ventilation mean that the air in your case (with your heatsink use to cool your cpu) is not circulating well, hence his temperature rise and therefore you need to improve that, if you want complain about temps
In short, if load temperature differ when you load your machine like 15 min from power on after being all night off - compared to load temp by the same load yet measured after 8 hours of run more that say 5°C, you might consider using getting ventilation (read more or faster fans) in your case. That include removing obstacles for airflow or using more CFM fans.
The catch is, as always, noise. It is not a problem getting hi-CFM fans that keep your machine cool, but unless you are deaf, you will not stand these Delta screamers So, some sort of compromise is need there. Yate Loon fans are inexpensive and reported near silent at 7V - I would go with them, if I was you and can get them to my hands


custom90gt -

Every chip is different. My first e6600 ran 10*C warmer then my 28b conroe regardless of what I did.

Excuse me for being Conroe-ignorant, but did not these CPU's are supplied with the IHS? So, maybe your 6600 got just worser contact between the core and the IHS, resulting in slightly higher temps and presumably then a worser O/C?

 

[custom90gt]

custom90gt -

Excuse me for being Conroe-ignorant, but did not these CPU's are supplied with the IHS? So, maybe your 6600 got just worser contact between the core and the IHS, resulting in slightly higher temps and presumably then a worser O/C?

The conroes do come with an IHS, and that could very well be the reason for the added temperatures. Unfortunately the IHS is soldered to the die so there is no easy way to remove it and test that theory.

 

[trodas]

Oh, well, some theories are hard to test... But some claims that just laping the IHS give then like 10°C down, so perhaps at lest this... Okay, it void the warranty too obviously...

And soldered? It is not just the easy to cut rubber stuff like on AMD? Or you mean glued? I did not had Conroe in hand yet, so excuse me for too dumb questions

 

[custom90gt]

Oh, well, some theories are hard to test... But some claims that just laping the IHS give then like 10°C down, so perhaps at lest this... Okay, it void the warranty too obviously...

And soldered? It is not just the easy to cut rubber stuff like on AMD? Or you mean glued? I did not had Conroe in hand yet, so excuse me for too dumb questions

I would have tried lapping, but my first conroe was traded to a friend and my second one was sold on the classifieds...

The IHS is soldered to the core and has silicon like the amd chips around the side. In order to break the bond between the die and the IHS you have to use a heat gun and get it very hot. Lots of people have messed up their cpus when trying to remove the IHS. If you get some time do a search and I'm sure you'll find some neat pictures where someone sadly removed their core(s) along with the IHS.