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5820k oc. How did I do? How can I get more?

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Brando

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
My ram speed puts my cpu strap at 125 so I'm stuck at 4375mhz for now. I tried 4500mhz but couldn't boot. Then I tried raising the voltage. I had to go from 1.2v to 1.3v to get into windows and temps shot up to 86c almost instantly in aida64 (corsair H90). Should I just be happy with a semi low voltage decent oc or is there a trick to get to 4500 without burning down my house?

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Most are doing 4.3GHz at 1.25V or so.
If you can't handle the heat, get a cooler that isn't the H90... or Corsair for that matter.
 
i lost a nut for my heatsink and had to buy something in town yesterday to get the system going. i may still return it and try an h110 or maybe one of those nice swiftech units. still scared of giant dual tower heatsinks.
 
Again, avoid the Corsair units.
If you're really wanting to push the chip go for an H220-x, H240-x, or custom loop.
 
sadly my case can't hold a 280mm rad without removing the top panels and ruining it's noise suppression abilities. the only other way is to take out the front hdd cages which would leave me with nowhere to put 3.5" drives except maybe one in the second optical bay with an adapter. it seems like a lot for a few more degrees. still gotta think about how much trouble it's worth to get 125 more mhz. i thought i read that going over 100mhz cpu strap reduces max oc. maybe ill try going back to 100 and see if it makes a difference.
 
i think so but i'm not sure that would be a big enough improvement would it?

edit: sorry it would be the same deal as the 140mm rad. maybe i can live without a spot for a second hd. i only use one but i want to be able to put in a new one once in awhile and transfer everything before the old drive dies and takes everything with it. if i had to i could use an external hdd as a temporary holder of data before it goes back into the new drive. or i can just go purely external on spinner drives but it seems sloppy to me. i need to think about it.
 
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The issue is that the block on the Corsair units is garbage when compared to things like the H220-x.
Also with that 5820K you're putting out enough heat that you need the extra radiator space.
 
i think im going to stick with 140mm rads or maybe try another air cooler at some point. 240/280mm is too much trouble with this case. plus, there's something appealing about running an efficient oc. .1v for an extra 125mhz is kind of nuts and i'll never feel the difference. i may try out the swiftech 140mm at some point but right now the h90 is keeping my cpu in the 70's at a fairly blazing speed. corsair needs to update the h90 with a better block and a thicker rad.
 
anybody ever tried disabling hyperthreading and testing temps? it seems to make a significant difference. what do i need it for anyhow with 6 cores? this could be the perfect balance between gaming performance and overall performance if it lets me overclock higher. i even have the voltage bumped up by .01v since my last stress test since i got a crash in bf4 and wanted to make sure it's stable. with the same voltage i bet it makes an 8c drop.
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anybody happen to know how temps compare between aida64, intel xtu, and realbench? my aida 64 trial ran out and i'm trying to compare my spirit140 power heatsink to the corsair h90. finally got the aio out and put the thermalright back in today and it may or may not be better than the water cooler but there's too many differences in the test and the environment.
 
Well, I'd say Aida64, default settings, runs 8/10c higher on peaks, and maybe 5c average, compared to Realbench. Same goes for XTU (stress, because benchmark goes much higher).
 
would you say xtu is about the same as aida64? trying to find an equivalent substitute.
 
gotcha thanks. welp, seem realbench stress test is way more hard core than aida64 or intel xtu. max cpu temp was 7c higher and it keeps crashing about 10 minutes in even after a little voltage bump. i did notice is was using gpu acceleration and working my 980ti pretty hard at the same. must be the extra video card heat warming up the heatsink and maybe stealing some power from the socket or something.

here's the xtu test after 15 min. max temp 74c. realbench hit 82c during the stress test and crashed but maxed at 73c on the benchmark and made it all the way through. then again it is summer and the wall thing says 78c in the hall as opposed to my first test in the op that was done in january during winter.
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Screw it. Gonna stick with the thermalright spirit 140 power. it's too close to tell at the very least and i still have slight paranoia about leaking water coolers even if they have a good track record. definitely not worth taking it back out again.
 
YEp, realbench also stresses the GPU. It was crashing due to a too high OC on my 780ti (Gaming stable, but no go for RB). I reset it to stock settings and it passed.

FYI, my 5820k passes P95 26.6 [email protected]/1.3v, but it needs 0.03 extra to pass Realbench, even if it runs cooler unde rb.
 
thanks for the insight. looks like aida64 is unnecessary. realbench stress test finds instability pretty well. i've been gaming and everything else since i put this rig together and had no issues. realbench still found a problem. plus the fact that it's endorsed by asus makes me feel a little safer using it even if it's placebo.
 
I'd remove the drive bays and go with a 240/280mm rad inside the Fractal R5. The heat you need to dissipate is too high for a 140mm rad and adjusting your drives is definitely worth the trouble over the long term imo. You should never be a position where if your drive dies, you lose everything. Have a backup plan ;) I'm using a 280mm rad setup with a push/pull config in my Fractal Nano S :rofl:
 
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idk man i did the math and going to 1.3v+ for 125 more mhz doesn't seem worth it. that's only 3% more mhz out of 4375. i think i'm right where i should be. i did actually pick up a 280mm water cooler when i built the rig and it was a tight fit. too much hassle and cost for 3% more mhz and unnoticeable performance gain. i might consider water cooling again if corsair updates the h90 with a thicker rad, dual fan capability, and a better block while keeping it under $100 or so. screwing in a single rad onto a fan hole is a piece of cake and i do kind of like having all that space in there as well as all the heat being pumped out. it would need to beat the best tower heatsink by at least 5c.
 
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