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A little lap will do ya'....

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Hoot

Inactive Moderator
Joined
Feb 13, 2001
Location
Twin Cities
Well, I finally took the Z4 water block off, but before putting the Gemini High flow rate block back on, I lapped it something pretty, despite it not needing lapping in the first place. I probably spent more time than I can recall getting it just perfect. I even relented and gave it a pass over some 1500 wet-or-dry.

For my effort, I was rewarded with taking my XP1600 higher than I have ever gone with it. Keep in mind that it's cool down here in the basement, especially on the concrete floor, where my tower sits.

I'll let this screen shot and my signature tell the rest. Ill save you the math part. That's 122 Watts yielding .14c/w

Hoot
 
:eek: WOW thats a great oc hoot for a 1600+.Is it unlocked i see you did a volt mod.how much did your temps drop after the lapping
 
as always, another excellent job. great work- but we expect nothing less from ya hoot:)
 
Nice!

I'll be happy to get that out of my 1700 or 1800 or whatever I can afford when the tax refund gets here.

BTW what thread had the formulas for calculating the wattage at certain speed and volts?

Road Warrior
 
FIRESTARR357 said:
:eek: WOW thats a great oc hoot for a 1600+.Is it unlocked i see you did a volt mod.how much did your temps drop after the lapping

Yes, it is unlocked with soldered micro wires across the trenches. I can't say how much my temps dropped because I never tried running it that that high a core voltage and that high a speed. The calculated c/w is the same as when I did my article at 112 Watts, but a different ambient temperature and different inlet water temperature. In my article, to meet the criteria of an inlet water temperature of 25C, I had put the tower up on my desk and run an electric space heater to get my room temperature up.
For the current settings, I put the case back on the floor and let the room temperature go where it wanted, which is 20C at chest height. That's one of the reasons I don't understand why some people put a full tower up on top of their desks. Towers belong on the floor, where it's the coolest place in the room. Who needs a peltier!

Hoot
 
RoadWarrior said:
Nice!

I'll be happy to get that out of my 1700 or 1800 or whatever I can afford when the tax refund gets here.

BTW what thread had the formulas for calculating the wattage at certain speed and volts?

Road Warrior

You can use Radiate or New Watt to calculate the wattage. At this speed, 3DMK2K1 score with my cheapo Radeon 7500 is 5352.

Hoot
 
RoadWarrior said:
Oh hey Hoot, how did you do the soldering? It's the kind of mod I'd prefer, seems more durable.

With a 30 power stereo microscope. 12W micro soldering pen and wire about 1/2 the diameter of a human hair. I've done three CPUs that way. Takes about 10 minutes if you're fastidious. Less if you're not.

Hoot
 
Thanks Hoot,

Hmmm equipment check, 15W soldering iron, jewellers loupe, spare tip, file... might be good to go there. I always knew there was a reason I wanted one of those stereo inspection scopes though :D

Did you fill the pits? I'd be worried about glooping solder in them. Or did you like tin the wire heavy and "dot" them on?

For wire I'm thinking of stripping some old headphone cords, they use superfine stranded wire in those for flexibility.

I guess I'm gonna be chicken and try mounting a heatsink off center on the core while I'm waving a soldering iron at the bridges, just in case I get things a little warm.

Road Warrior
 
RoadWarrior said:
Thanks Hoot,

Hmmm equipment check, 15W soldering iron, jewellers loupe, spare tip, file... might be good to go there. I always knew there was a reason I wanted one of those stereo inspection scopes though :D

Road Warrior

Most 15W soldering irons are way too big. Jeweller's loupe?
How many hands do you have?

Hoot, has a great setup for this. You really cannot pull
this off without the right equipment. I know a number of
guys that ruined a ...er...PS2 that way.:)
 
Oh, I've got an iron I can control pretty good, and have done some surface mount stuff with it. Like upgrading a vid card that only had solder pads. I'd modify a bit specially for this job though, get a needle point on it. The loupe I can rig to a head mount if I need to. I'm pretty adaptive, just need the bare facts and I'm set usually. Though I will admit, this ones going to take some meditation, or a dozen shots of vodka, or something. I'd only do stuff like this on my own kit though, anyone elses gets me an extra nerve factor and the hands won't stay steady.

Road Warrior
 
Yes, I filled the trenches with superglue, but not because I was going to solder the bridges. I filled them because I was going to try the defogger paint process. After four tries, I still did not have a result I felt good about, so I scrubbed that process and went with the wires.

A jewelers loupe, which I have several of, is no good. The focal length is so short, you have to literally put it right on top of where you're working. It does not leave you room to work, not to mention tying up one hand.

You do not need to worry about heat migration if you do it right. By right, I mean you tin the dots, lay the wire across them and quick touch them where they intersect. Total time with the solder iron touching the dots should be less than 1 second. Liberal use of liquid resin is a big plus. For wire, I unraveled a short length of small Solder Wick braid.

I've been soldering for 27 years, many of them to Mil-Spec standards. Though my eyes are not up to par anymore, my technique still is. This is not for the soldering challenged!
You need the right tools, the right materials and a feel for soldering very small joints before you even consider this approach.

Hoot
 
Thanks very much Hoot,

Yeah, I did a cold trial seeing what things would be like using a loupe and I'd be singeing my eyebrows. I might be able to get along without any optical aids though since I'm short sighted rather than long sighted, so if I work close to, I should be good.

I'm not a soldering newb, but I'll approach this with regard to you having twice my experience at least and take very great care.

I have no liquid flux, I have some flux paste with tinning compound in it though, that works real nice on obstinate surfaces. I guess I might buy some small size SolderWick, since I probably should have that on hand anyway for it's intended use, since I usually struggle by with a sucker and any scrap braid I find.

Anyway, thanks very much Hoot, erm, sorry, hijacked your thread a bit. oops,

Road Warrior
 
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