AC unit naked. Pics.

[Big_Baller]

Ok if you read my last maytag post you'd know I'm taking apart my AC unit.

Here are the pics:

Now where is the themostat that I need to remove? Is it that copper tube in front of the radator? How should I remove it? Just take the wiring off of it and yank it out of there? Any wirers I need to reattach somewhere?

{}
{}

{}

Cut what? Just take out the whole fan? What about the mouse wheel, does that stay? Also what is my compressor? HP? What type of refridgerator stuff does it use? Sorry, I'm not hvac cert or anything. But always willing to learn.

 

[matttheniceguy]

Looks like you have the QA075C on this page:

http://www.lge.com/products/component/compressor/aircon/r_QAseries.jsp

spec's PDF: http://www.lge.com/products/component/compressor/aircon/download/r_QAseries/pdf/QA075C.pdf

It uses R22, and the motor input is 477 watts, or about 2/3 HP, and the output is 430 watts, or about 0.58 HP.

The Fan (the propeller like one) is needed to cool the condensor. Don't remove it. The "mouse wheel" is what is used to draw air through the evaporator. Since we want to submerge the evap in fluid, we don't want that blower. It looks like there are some retention clips and you shoudl be able to just slide it off the motor's shaft once they are removed. A lot of people like the cut the shaft off the motor as well since it will only get in the way.

You need to remove the thermostat that will turn the AC on and off depending on the temperature. This will make the unit stay on. I think that copper tube on the evap. is actually for controling the throttling valve, but I'm not sure. I have very little phase change experience. For instructions on how to remove the thermostat you will have to wait for someone who knows more about that unit than I do. I'm sure you could just find the electronics that are actually controling the on/off action of the compressor and bypass them, but once again I really don't know for sure if this is ok to do.

Good luck with the project

 

[sneakyfart]

the thermostat is attached to the front of the evap youll need to reconnect the wires from it for the unit to work

 

[kayl]

ok fire her up and give everyone an ice show.

 

[Big_Baller]

I'm going to but I have to get to a weddingding today so I'll have pics up either tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Big_Baller]

Ok well here it is. I don't have any way to check the temps becaue my compunurse broke

 

[pwnt by pat]

Nice ice. Is that on high with the fan on high? If you don't wan't to mess with the themostat, attach it to the condensor. Also, Make sure to get that thing mega insulated; Frost can kill compressors.

If you're making a chiller which I assume you are, remember to make the evap. res. as small as possible. This allows less time to get down to the optimal temperature. If you can run the pump submersed without making the res much bigger than just around the evap, that would be ideal. 1" styrafoam can be used to make the res and held together with a more than generous amount of silicone. If you go that route, make sure to keep pressure on it with clamps or else it'll leak.

Also, you can use 1/2" pipe 1/2" tube male/female fittings to run the tubing out the side or front. Check out what Gary is doing over at xtremesystems.org. It'll be somewhere in the extreme mods.

 

[Big_Baller]

When you say keep it insulated what to you mean? I am assuming the resevoir.

Also What about just insulating a small fish tank with thick foam on the outside?Will glass crack at low temps? Would it be ok?
I have a big coleman cooler but...its a little big (36qt) I would like to get it down in size. I will be running a submersed pump.

What gary is doing is awesome...but I can't hold a candle to his expertise. No idea how I'd make somthing like that.

Also will I need to cool the compressor? Since it should be running 24/7. Is it good to run the compressor while my computers off? It'd just get colder and colder....

Oh What was that about frost killing compressors?

 

[iwillburnbush]

You will probably need to at least have a fan blowing over the compressor (a BIG one), but it didn't look like there was frost on the compressor so you don't need to wory about that as much (just make sure you insulate all the wires and electrical stuff when you're done). The glass of a fish tank will not crack because of temperature unless it goes from super hot to super cold almost instantly or from super cold to super hot almost instantly. Be sure to insulate it VERY well though, otherwise temps won't be as good. I also noticed you will be running a submersed pump (Not the best design since the pump generates heat, but it shouldn't make too much of a difference). I don't know what kind of coolant you plan on using, but make sure that if it can go below freezing it won't ceaze up the pump.

 

[kayl]

the compressor is meant to run at about 70c
any fan blowing air onto the compressor will help
i fthere is frost appearing on the compressor where the suction line enters the compressor this means that the compressor is overcharged and will damage the compresor.
make sure you do a good job of insulation on the res as this incorrours a larger heat load
which means that your temps will suffer

 

[Big_Baller]

I will use a mix of denatured alcohol and water. Not sure about the ratio. I will look into that soon as I am nearing the testing phase.

I am making a water block for my video card at the moment. Pics soon.

 

[Pro*Banshee]

just use windsheild wiper fluid

our stuff is good to -30f

 

[Swift-o1]

ok fire her up and give everyone an ice show.

^ what he said

 

[Big_Baller]

Ok well here it is. I don't have any way to check the temps becaue my compunurse broke

OK here you go.

 

[pwnt by pat]

Sorry for the long delay. When I say insulating I mean everything. You'll have to insulate all lines except the compressor and condensor.

 

[MadSkillzMan]

did this project ever get finished or what?? im interested! i have a dually thats being a pain in the arse, hella loud, and needs to be cold!

does running the ac likle taht equate to the same as running it during the summer? i know itsa dumb question but my parents complain how much the ac rises the power bill.

 

[Skeen]

Yeah that's the main drawback (to me) with a water chiller. The a/c unit sucks energy like crazy, your parents will definitely be pissed. Unless of course you agree to pay them for the extra cost or you could wire up a Penn-type remote bulb thermostat. That way you could have it shut down once it reached whatever temp you like. It still might be on and off constantly which would shorten the life of your a/c unit but at least small a/c units are relatively cheap. In any case I think they're highly impractical unless you A.) Pay your own bills and/or money is no object. B.) Feel like micromanaging your computer all day and everyday you use it (ie What are my temps like?, Am I still insulated well? Hows the a/c unit running? Any leaks? Do I need more coolant?).

But I still like to see pics of other people doing it.

 

[man_utd]

Or you live in an apartment where you don't pay power bills...it really is nice.

 

[MadSkillzMan]

lol hmm....yea that would be nice....i just hope the apartment doesnt supply the fridge so i can put a window in one

 

[kayl]

you will need to insulate the accumulator and the suction line back to the evap
this is mine