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AD11, K7T266, or A7M266; which would you buy?

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Jan 6, 2001
The subject line says it all, any suggestions? Do you know if the msi k7t266 has clock multiplier ability?
Thaks for all you help,
I would buy an 133A, because it's hardly any slower and much cheaper.... same with DDR and 133SD
I would go with the K7T266... the A7M266 doesnt have the ability to change multiplier right now, I am not sure of the AD11. KT266 chipset mobo's have benched highest among DDR boards so that would be my choice.

I just bought the AD11 - seemed as though most sites rated it the best board. Mine came with heatsink/fan on 761 Northbridge. Running Win2k, just took out my KT7 and dropped it right in. 5 minutes later Win2k had reconfigured itself and I was up and running. This thing is FAST!! I was running the KT7 at 1.33ghz so the difference was the board. I didn't expect to see such a difference. No problems whatsoever, solid as a rock. Great bargain for $135. Godd documentation and free progs inc. Ghost, Antivirus, Virtual drive.

System specs

FIC AD11 Motherboard
256Mb Crucial PC2100 Ram ($98.00!!)
IBM 60Gb disk
Geforce 2 GTS 64Mb
Athlon 1.2 Ghz cpu (running at 10x133=1333 defauly voltage so far)
Now that I think I figured out how to change the multiplier on tha A7M266 That's what I'm getting. Here's how you do it.

In Rev 1.01 of the board the switches were still on the board to allow you to change the multiplier, but they were not installed on the later revisions for some unknown reason. You can see a picture compareing the area of Rev. 1.01 and Rev. 1.03 where the switches are and the printing on the board that tells you what position to put them in here:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/mainboards/asus-a7m266.html It’s not quite half way down the page.

If you’re handy with a soldering iron you could solder some switches on. However, I’m a little nervous about taking a soldering iron to my new $180 motherboard. I think you could use a conductive pen to close the circuits that need to be closed. The only problem with that is to change the multiplier again after you’ve done this would be a pain because you’d have to clean the conductive ink off. I don’t know how hard that would be, but here’s a way around it. Put a piece of tape on the board between the circuit contacts and draw the circuits across the tape. Then if you need to change something just peel off the tape and put on another piece! I haven’t tested this yet because I haven’t ordered my board yet. I’ve been researching which board to buy and I was leaning to the A7M266 but the inability to set the multiplier was really bothering me. Now that I think I’ve solved the problem I’ll be ordering my new board and AXIA chip soon.

If anyone try this on your board let me know how it works! I’d like to know if I’m right.