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Advice for first custom watercooling loop

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MaximusTrollus

New Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
Hello here,

I am looking for advices to think my custom watercooling loop and to choose the components.
The goals of my loop are :
- To cool CPU and GPU.
- To be a compromise between the most quietest loop and soft/medium CPU overcloking.
- I don't want the best cooling perfs, but have CPU and GPU temperatures under 50-55°C in burn will be great.
- I have begin to mod my PC, so the look matters.

My PC config is the following :
- CPU : Intel Core i7 8700K
- CPU Rad : Noctua NH-U12P SE2 (with 2 NF-P12 fan)
- MB : AORUS Z390 Pro
- RAM : Corsair Dominator 2x8Gb 3000Mhz
- GPU : AORUS GTX 1080Ti Extrem Edition
- PSU : Seasonix X-750 Series
- Case : BeQuiet ! Silent Base 800 (2014 Version)

In my case specs, it says that the radiator locations are :
- Front : 120/140 rad slot
- Back : 120 rad slot
- Top : 240 rad slot (or 280 slim rad slot)

After searching for informations, this is my considered loop :

Projet 1.png

I think use mainly Barrow gears, after reading the good quality/price, with this component (so a nickel/copper loop) :
- CPU block : http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/804.html
- GPU block : https://aliexpress.com/item/Barrow-...for-Gigabyte-AORUS-GTX1080Ti/32809286975.html
- Radiator : http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/77.html
- Pump/res combo (choice 1) : http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/977.html with compatible res
- Pump/res combo (choice 2) : https://www.thermaltake.com/Liquid_...servoir/C_00002695/Pacific_PR15_D5/design.htm

For my loop I have the following questions :
- About radiator :
- For cooling CPU and GPU, is a 240mm rad enough ? It read that yes on the net.
- If yes, which thickness is better ? 34, 45 ou 60 mm
- If no, how will you proceed ? For example, add a front 120 mm rad, for example like this :

Projet 2.png

- About pump/res combo :
I want to keep my loop as silent as possible. After reading on the net, it seems that the Laing D5 pump is one the quietest choice. I have also read that the linked Barrow pump is more a DCC pump (and an unofficial one, because it is not mentioned on the product page)...
So which pump/res combo would you choose for my objectives ?
The thermaltake Pacific PR15-D5 is more expensive, but does it worth it ?
I have read here https://electricwaterpumpguide.com/...mp-guide/#Thermaltake_Pacific_DIY_LCS_PR22-D5 that it's grand-sister, the Pacific PR22-D5 (same pump with bigger reservoir), is highly recommended, mainly for the silent, but the max liquid temperature is lower...

- About rad fans :
I want a compromise between quiet and temperature perfs to consider a soft/medium overcloking.
I have read that for red fans, static pressure is more important thant air flow, but static pressure and silent are not good friends.
Can I use my actual CPU rad Noctua NF-P12 fans ? They are enough silent for me, but does the static pressure is ok with them ?
Can you advice to me another fan with is a good compromise between quiet and static pressure ?
Do i have to setup my fans in push or pull configuration (I have clearly not enough space to mount a push-pull setup) ? It seems that push have better perfs ?
Does the back fan still usefull with two 120 mm rad fan in extraction ?

Thanks for reading, and for your answers.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
That isnt enough rad really. It will work, but will defeat the purpose of running quiet and cooler. You have, at stock 340W, to cool. The general rule of thumb is 100W or so for every 120mm of rad.

As far as thickness...typically thicker is better. But make sure you have room.
 
OP
M

MaximusTrollus

New Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
When you talk about 340W to cool, you mention the CPU and GPU watt power, so 95 + 250 = 345W ?
According to the rule of 100W = 120mm rad, i should put at least 2x240 mm, is that right ?
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Spot on.

I'd reccomend 4x120mm worth, yes. This will allow for quieter operation and optimal temps.
 

Scu84St3v3420

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Location
Waterbury, VT
^^THIS!^^

240mm of radiator per overclocked component minimum is a decent rule of thumb from what I found in my digging for liquid cooling information. If you have the room for it, I would avoid slim rads as they tend to have a higher FPI count which causes more air resistance for your fans. That means they'll have to work harder to cool your components, so to offset this effect a good 45-60mm thick rad with a low FPI count will increase the surface area for cooling and allow you to run fans at a low RPM (which will = lower dB levels) and still achieve optimal temps. Or at least this is what I have found in my reading, I can't say for sure from experience.

- - - Auto-Merged Double Post - - -

Additionally, your loop order seems somewhat contradictory to what I've read. You'd want to go res/pump to rad to component to rad to component to res/pump for optimal temps, but again this is from reading not experience, perhaps a more experienced member can chime in on this.
 

makaka

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Location
home
Additionally, your loop order seems somewhat contradictory to what I've read. You'd want to go res/pump to rad to component to rad to component to res/pump for optimal temps, but again this is from reading not experience, perhaps a more experienced member can chime in on this.
loop order do not make any difference , temp will stabilize after some time .
for rad space i would go for 4x120 or better , to ensure most efficient setup
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
^^THIS!^^

240mm of radiator per overclocked component minimum is a decent rule of thumb from what I found in my digging for liquid cooling information. If you have the room for it, I would avoid slim rads as they tend to have a higher FPI count which causes more air resistance for your fans. That means they'll have to work harder to cool your components, so to offset this effect a good 45-60mm thick rad with a low FPI count will increase the surface area for cooling and allow you to run fans at a low RPM (which will = lower dB levels) and still achieve optimal temps. Or at least this is what I have found in my reading, I can't say for sure from experience.

- - - Auto-Merged Double Post - - -

Additionally, your loop order seems somewhat contradictory to what I've read. You'd want to go res/pump to rad to component to rad to component to res/pump for optimal temps, but again this is from reading not experience, perhaps a more experienced member can chime in on this.
Loop order is not relevant outside of having a res feed the pump. Temperatures inside a properly radded and flowing loop vary around 1-2C.

Have you read our guide?
 

Scu84St3v3420

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Location
Waterbury, VT
Loop order is not relevant outside of having a res feed the pump. Temperatures inside a properly radded and flowing loop vary around 1-2C.

Have you read our guide?

Yes I have and I've seen Jayztwocents do a video on that same subject with the same findings now that you mention it.
 

maxfly

Member
Joined
May 7, 2005
can you fit a 240 up top and a 240 in front? which model # of the BeQuiet ! Silent Base 800 do you have?
 
OP
M

MaximusTrollus

New Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
Thanks for your answers.

^^THIS!^^

240mm of radiator per overclocked component minimum is a decent rule of thumb from what I found in my digging for liquid cooling information. If you have the room for it, I would avoid slim rads as they tend to have a higher FPI count which causes more air resistance for your fans. That means they'll have to work harder to cool your components, so to offset this effect a good 45-60mm thick rad with a low FPI count will increase the surface area for cooling and allow you to run fans at a low RPM (which will = lower dB levels) and still achieve optimal temps. Or at least this is what I have found in my reading, I can't say for sure from experience.

If I understand well, the general rules for a rad is :
- Thicker is better
- Lowest FPI is better

But what do you mean by "If you have the room for it" ? What are a room condition

can you fit a 240 up top and a 240 in front? which model # of the BeQuiet ! Silent Base 800 do you have?

Unfortunately, I think not. I don't have the case model number here, but according to amazon screenshots, it's this one :
https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BGW01-...r=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=be+quiet+silent+base+800

But i have already check in my case manual, and it says that the radiator locations are :
- Front : 120/140 rad slot
- Back : 120 rad slot
- Top : 240 rad slot (or 280 slim rad slot)

I have ordered a 45x240mm rad. I will check if I can modify the chassis, but if not, I'm considering to find a better watercooling substitute case.
According to the look that I want to keep, I could go on this model, which have a 420 rad top slot and a 360 rad front slot :
https://www.bequiet.com/en/case/1516

Do you have an idead about a fan model to have for the rad ?
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Thicker can better. FPI depends on your fans. Higher fpi requires higher static pressure fans to get air through the rad. In theory, the more find the more ability the rad has to dissipate heat.

The room for it inside your case. If you go to mfgs website it will tell you in the specs.


You should read our guides! :)
 

Scu84St3v3420

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Location
Waterbury, VT
Thicker isn't always better, it can be... It depends on usage case.
Lowest FPI isn't always better either, again this is going to be dependent on other variables.

My point was simply that a 240mm x 60mm thick rad with around 10-14 fpi will offer roughly the same fin density as a 240mm slim rad with 19-22 fpi. Which means they will offer about the same amount of heat dissipation, however the 60mm rad with the lower fpi will cause less air resistance to your fans than the slim rad option. This will allow you to run fans quieter for the same heat dissipation, which seems to be your main goal.

But again there a plenty of variable to consider, quality of fans, case airflow, clearance issues and so on. As ED said, research will be your best friend in this hobby.
 

maxfly

Member
Joined
May 7, 2005
that 801 is a sharp case. for case and rad fans i prefer noctua nf-a14/nf-f12 industrials. for power when im gaming or benching and the ability to tune them down to nothing if im just browsing.
https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/industrial
but if you want to stick with be quiet gear, they make some really solid fans as well. i like the silent wings 3 high speed pwms. they are solid rad fans and are among the quietest ive ever used.
https://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/724
 

funsoul

Senior Member
Joined
May 3, 2004
Location
NJ, USA
How big an overclock are you targeting? If it's not too high and just to present a different perspective...have you thought about a decent AIO for the cpu and a AIO watercooled vga? These are actually pretty decent https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080XTREME-W-8GD-rev-10#kf OR, maybe, an AIO on the cpu and custom on the vga?

Just a different angle to consider. You're definitely on the right path for the custom water route. Don't forget 2x nice fans (per space on the rads) so you can do push-pull. Low dB, high pressure fans (thicker the better, generally but space gets to be an issue).