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AIO water setup suggestions?

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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Hey
I’m new to water blocks, fittings, tubes, reservoirs…pretty much all of it, and hoping to get some advice.
I’ve done some research, not a lot.
And I’m building mATX and bought this AIO http://www.swiftech.com/H140-X.aspx
I was going to try my hand at changing the fittings and tubing anyways, and now I see it has dye particles in the coolant.
Factory coolant is a propylene glycol mix and I don’t know if the dye needs that to dissolve.
When I refill it I know distilled water is recommended here. With a biocide.

What should I do to get rid of the dye? Before I drain it, should I run it to dissolve it? Or drain it first > fill & run > drain & fill, like flushing it? Would I have to disassemble the block or anything to inspect that the dye is dissolved?

The stock tubes are too long, I’m getting rid of the dye, and changing the fittings & tubing.
So I might as well go a bit further and try to make it more aesthetically pleasing.
I’m thinking bring rigid tubes down and across, but I don't know what it takes to achieve that.
What do you think?

View attachment 177809

Any suggestions?

Would there be a preference for 3/8 or ½ ID?
What type of G¼ fitting is the most reliable?

Thanks
 

Lochekey

Senior Pink Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2015
Can I ask why you are not doing a custom loop instead of trying to mod that aio. If you have not already stated cutting into it I would suggest returning it and building a custom loop.
 
OP
B

Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Can I ask why you are not doing a custom loop instead of trying to mod that aio. If you have not already stated cutting into it I would suggest returning it and building a custom loop.

Sure you can !
There’s no cutting to it.
I figured that was coming.

Thanks for the response. And my feeble answer is….
Because if I send it back I’ll loose 30% of the 100 I paid for it, and custom is considerably more than 2x the cost...
I bought it for a different case....
The specs didn’t say it had dye it....
Since changing to the mATX case, I knew the tubes would be too long and I could just cut them to length without doing much else. Still can....
But this , like the whole build, has grown from a platform upgrade to a total build, so, there ya go.

Maybe I just need someone to push me into slapping more leather. Seems a bit much for a rig that won’t need better cooling. But it would look nice:)
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
This particular "AIO" is a pre-assembled loop with the parts already picked for you as the loop is set and forget. The pump might not be as strong as the premium pumps but for its size, it will get the job done.

As for cleaning it, flushing would be a great idea but taking it apart, you'll need to be careful that you put it back together sealed.

Now when it comes to changing things out, I'm not too familiar with those Swiftech AIO kits. You'll need to see other folks who have purchased it and upgraded/replaced the gear on it. I would look around and hope someone can chime in with more intel on this product.
 
Last edited:

ITAngel

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Location
Wyoming
Personally I don't trust any AIO, I would be better off building my own custom loop and insure that is done currently so it can last you many years and many builds. Take your time and do it right and you will be happy with the results. EK stuff I enjoy a lot and i just finish doing one with EK parts. You can ask Witchdoctor, he guided me all the way. XD
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
That 140 has the pump built into the res, so I wouldn’t have to take anything apart other that the standard G1/4 fittings.
Don't see any upside here, best off leaving it be and if you want a custom look buy custom.
This kit worked well for me and gives you that custom look and feel
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l240-1
The upside is appearance. I’d still want to customize that kit, making the cost even closer to full custom.
For all intent and purpose, I could put a 212 on there and call it a day, but that wouldn't be me.

New day – new plans. Seems to be my motto lately.

If I got that ^, where would you put the rad? It won’t fit at the top. I’m thinking right side panel, then using black tubes to the top front grommet > where the res would be mounted next to the grommet @ the front of the case. And how would I have 2 colored tubes, symmetrically, from the res area to the block? The idea being black for all mainly visual, except the res glass(tint) and tubes to and from the block? And I wouldn’t care for the chrome fittings @ the block so those would be changed.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xlc-predator-240
If I got this ^, It can go right side panel, run those black tubes to the grommet, then change the tube color, and block fitting type and color. That looks to be around 250.

If someone can spec something like what I’m looking for about $250, that would be ok. It will only be cooling the cpu.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
The rad from the EK kit would fit in the top, the fittings and black tubing look good together
I looked at those measurements the other day, and again today. I don't think I'm going to want black & shiney chrome. Only 58mm clearance from top to tray, so both the are out for that location. A thin 25mm could be top mount. Swiftech kit’s and Predator will fit front or back panel. But before a decision is made on what rad to get and where it's going,

is it a concern that:
1. if it’s vertical mount, do the tubes need to be at the bottom?
2. if mounted at the back panel, exhausting to the boards exposed back? – even if a 200mm top exhaust could be next to it?
3. or if at the back panel and exhausting out of the case – what about that back area of the case that seems not well equipped for air flow?
http://www.modders-inc.com/raidmax-hyperion-case-review/3/