Good deal - Whenever you're ready send that board here and I'll replace those caps for you along with any others that's suspect.
My method of cap replacement is E-Z-P-Z...... I just take my air/desoldering wand set for about 350f, set the airflow up on low-med and let it heat up the area at the legs of the cap on the backside of the board. When the solder melts I simply pull them out.
How I put them back in is where some may disagree with how I do it and yes, I do have to use the iron at times but about 80% of the time I don't have to for installing.
I simply dip/coat the legs of the "New" cap with Ruby fluid, reheat the backside of the board again using the air wand with the new cap's legs where they should be to go back in the board (Holes for the legs) and apply a slight amount of pressure equally between the legs of the cap, using just enough to make it go back in once the solder melts but not enough to collapse the legs - Doesn't take much pressure at all in fact.
The solder that's in the hole then melts and the cap just goes right back in with a slight side to side/wiggle motion relative to the legs on the cap itself.
Give it the wiggle test (Leg to leg, not side to side relative to the legs) to confirm it's in securely as it should be with no motion at the cap's legs.
If any motion is noted, follow up with the iron, Ruby fluid and solder..... Recheck it..... Make sure there is a good connection for the legs and apply extra solder if needed....
Done.
Normally takes about a minute per cap to do if I don't have to chase it with the iron.