• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

AMD Athlon XP 3000+ Retro Build!

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
It may not be his fault, Fedx delayed something I ordered for 2 months because of a bomb scare, so it could be the carrier that dropped the ball here.

^yup. Even just the time of year, I've had packages from all three major couriers delayed a week and a half if not more if they weren't shipped next day/2 day/3 day :shrug:

Did he send any updates w/ tracking?
 
Just let it go.
You have it covered anyway.
There is no satisfaction from doing this.
 
Yeah, good point. No need to rehash, Let's just focus on the build at hand. I will provide an update just as soon as I am able.
 
So, thanks to bones, we have new CPUs to test...

KIMG0101.JPG
AXDA2000DUT3C
KIXJB 0415BPAW

AND
KIMG0102.JPG
AXDA2000DUT3C
RIRGA 0233GPMW

Will try these out tomorrow... and PROGRESS will be made!!!
 
Last edited:
Good deal - Whenever you're ready send that board here and I'll replace those caps for you along with any others that's suspect. ;)

My method of cap replacement is E-Z-P-Z...... I just take my air/desoldering wand set for about 350f, set the airflow up on low-med and let it heat up the area at the legs of the cap on the backside of the board. When the solder melts I simply pull them out.

How I put them back in is where some may disagree with how I do it and yes, I do have to use the iron at times but about 80% of the time I don't have to for installing.

I simply dip/coat the legs of the "New" cap with Ruby fluid, reheat the backside of the board again using the air wand with the new cap's legs where they should be to go back in the board (Holes for the legs) and apply a slight amount of pressure equally between the legs of the cap, using just enough to make it go back in once the solder melts but not enough to collapse the legs - Doesn't take much pressure at all in fact.
The solder that's in the hole then melts and the cap just goes right back in with a slight side to side/wiggle motion relative to the legs on the cap itself.

Give it the wiggle test (Leg to leg, not side to side relative to the legs) to confirm it's in securely as it should be with no motion at the cap's legs.
If any motion is noted, follow up with the iron, Ruby fluid and solder..... Recheck it..... Make sure there is a good connection for the legs and apply extra solder if needed....
Done.

Normally takes about a minute per cap to do if I don't have to chase it with the iron.
 
I just hope my board isn't cooked. I'd hate for you to do all that work and find out there is some other issue with the board itself.

I should have time later today or tomorrow to try the new CPUs, fingers crossed!!
 
So no go on the CPUs. I'll work on getting those caps and then send it out your way, Dr. McCoy.

Damn it.. I was really hoping for the best here. Oh well. Gotta be patient.

At least I know my Athlon XP 3000+ is good..
 
So no go on the CPUs. I'll work on getting those caps and then send it out your way, Dr. McCoy.

Damn it.. I was really hoping for the best here. Oh well. Gotta be patient.

At least I know my Athlon XP 3000+ is good..

Hey I thought you where going to send it to me to replace the caps? :) It's ok.
 

Unfortunately I have not made further progress. I had to move and this put a damper on most of my CPU project rigs.

So I still need to send the MOBO out and have the caps replaced. Still need to get the actual capacitors as well.

Hopefully I can make progress on this by Mid March.
 
Last edited:
Back