Yeah I've taken the cap off these, it's different than lapping, lapping is smoothing out the cap with sandpaper etc, removing the cap is taking it off completely, leaving you with something that looks like an athlon. The CPU die is right there, and you have to take the same caution not to crack the core.
It gives you about 33-50 more stable Mhz usually. Max "POST" Mhz usually isn't much affected.
The heat spreader is held on top of the CPU by something that looks a bit like hot melt glue or RTV sealant, it's rubbery stuff, (but thermally conductive of course) and is just blodged at each corner of the plate and on top of the die. You can cut through it at each corner with a thin sharp blade such as a single edged razor blade, takes a while sometimes, then when you are through all four corners it usually twists off the die neatly, or may already be loose.
Dunno quite what it does for temps since none of my K6-2 boards have thermal monitoring. I suspect it helps if you've got a good heatsink. however if your heatsink was kind of marginal the lower thermal mass might make things a little worse.
I'd beleive 800Mhz by the way, but would be sceptical about 900 without more details since the fastest boards I know of based on MVP3s or MVP4s usually, do up to 133 FSB and the chips do a max 6x multiplier.
That's not to say a board mod might not work to get a 150 FSB or something. K6-2s seem to come in one of two types for overclocking, some will go to a certain point and then start getting errors at the next step, while remaining seemingly cool enough. Others, will go and go but will heat up real warm, and seem like as long as you can figure how to keep them cool enough they'll keep taking all the voltage and Mhz you can throw at them.
regards,
Road Warrior
