Antec 1200 getting custom loop love for the 1st time.

[DaPoets]

Nice job, it does look a lot cleaner. No idea why the temps changed, maybe a little bubble trapped in one of the rad?

Yeah I'm not sure but they are still a few degrees lower after a couple of days of use. I need to ask you how you have your VEGA 64 overclocked so well. Did you edit the registry for a higher power limit?

 

[Zerileous]

Haha, I wouldn't go so far as to say I have it overclocked that well. Woomack on the other hand seems to be a Vega master. Right now I have only been using the stock 150% power slider for 300W. I had been running my overclocks for various power targets (150W for folding, 250W for general gaming, 300W for benching) with the highest max clock speed I could obtain without crashing or artifact. For these various power targets, I keep the 150% slider, but undervolt mainly P6 and P7 in Watt Man. I don't touch P1-P5. Also not sure if this is correct.

That said it appears that I am doing it incorrectly, and what you really want is a stable line in WattMan for your clock speed. In other words a lower clock that doesn't bounce around is more desirable. So that's what I'm working on now. In other words if I can set 1660MHz at 1100mV and hit it once every 30 seconds, but also drop to 1430MHz once every 30 seconds, probably not as good as a set 1600MHz that stays there. That's what I'm trying to dial in right now. I don't fully understand how all of this works though, I'm trying to break out of my 15 year old mindset of set it, run it.

Edit: the reason I choose 250W for general gaming is that at 300W my fan speed is higher than I would like. So the performance to noise benefit of those extra watts just isn't there for me right now.

Edit 2: Check out this thread

 

[DaPoets]

Haha, I wouldn't go so far as to say I have it overclocked that well. Woomack on the other hand seems to be a Vega master. Right now I have only been using the stock 150% power slider for 300W. I had been running my overclocks for various power targets (150W for folding, 250W for general gaming, 300W for benching) with the highest max clock speed I could obtain without crashing or artifact. For these various power targets, I keep the 150% slider, but undervolt mainly P6 and P7 in Watt Man. I don't touch P1-P5. Also not sure if this is correct.

That said it appears that I am doing it incorrectly, and what you really want is a stable line in WattMan for your clock speed. In other words a lower clock that doesn't bounce around is more desirable. So that's what I'm working on now. In other words if I can set 1660MHz at 1100mV and hit it once every 30 seconds, but also drop to 1430MHz once every 30 seconds, probably not as good as a set 1600MHz that stays there. That's what I'm trying to dial in right now. I don't fully understand how all of this works though, I'm trying to break out of my 15 year old mindset of set it, run it.

Edit: the reason I choose 250W for general gaming is that at 300W my fan speed is higher than I would like. So the performance to noise benefit of those extra watts just isn't there for me right now.

Edit 2: Check out this thread

Thanks for all that. Now that I'm on water I don't have to worry about temps so I'm looking forward to pushing this thing as far as it will go for benching. Right now for everyday gaming on 1080p 60fps it's been overkill. I'll get a better monitor when I feel I have more time for gaming... I'm enjoying some late night benching w/ some tequila while my wife is watching her fooo fooo house wives shows lol

 

[Zerileous]

I do really want to feed this card more power for benching. I'm debating between flashing the liquid cooled (actually its a hybrid card) bios or doing a power tables registry mod. I'd like to see what this can do at 350W or 360W. I'm sure the VRM could handle 400W but I don't know how that would effect the GPU . I also have not actually found instructions on the powerplay mod.