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Antec, Cheiftec, and Other For Water-Cooling

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DodgeViper said:


The Lite-On TT600 may work but I just do not see that the 20 would. I want to completely remove the fans/shroud/heater core from the area around the cpu/mobo/drive cages.

I do not want air flowing from outside the case to the inside. In my drawing air flow comes from the top and out the back without mixing with inside air. This is why its so important that I have info. on the area size above the power supply. I would like a total of 8". If it means droping the P/S down and placing the bottom of the P/S near the top edge of the MOBO I will.


That's exactly how I am going to route my airflow arrangement, except at the bottom of the case. I don't know why I haven't seen it before. It just makes complete sense to me to use ambient air instead of in case air (since case air is usually a couple of degrees higher).
 

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My current case has the rad in that position, just do not have the fan ducted out the side. This is an old image and many changes have taken place with what you see in the photo. The rad is the same but nothing else.

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I purchased this case CLICK. Can't wait to get started. This is truly going to be adventure as I am totally revamping my system. Still waiting for the new EPOX 8DRA+ to hit the shorelines of USA as this is the board the new system will be built around. There will be some challenges as I am placing the heater core in the top above the power supply, and making shrouds to pull fresh air from the top of the case and exhaust out the back. Hoping to place the pump near the top so water lines are very short. The heater core area as well as the power supply area are going to be insulated so no heat from the P/S has a chance to warm the H/C.
 
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Dodge Viper, sounds like an awesome project.

I am getting the same motherboard when it comes out, as I can't wait.

I will be very interested as to how the results come out, so please keep us posted. :)
 
DodgeViper said:
This case looks to be able to do what I want to do and priced at $35.00. Even looks like its made of aluminum. It appears to have about 8 inches above the P/S.


DCP01811.jpg

Got the this case in today. It's huge! It's the same height as my 2 drawer file cabinet.
 
What about putting the Rad in the bottom of the case venting down with a shroud? With wheels on the case that should drive the heat out the bottom?
 
DodgeViper said:
Then the H/C would be to wide for the case.


Are you sure? The case specs say the case is 8.13"W. Wouldn't that be enough?

I'm getting the exact same case and was thinking about putting the rad where your going to. When I found out it wouldn't fit, I had two options. Lay the rad on its side.

Build a housing for a long, and skinny rad, plus the fans and mount it on the back of the case (look at pic)
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JRWYW said:



Are you sure? The case specs say the case is 8.13"W. Wouldn't that be enough?

I'm getting the exact same case and was thinking about putting the rad where your going to. When I found out it wouldn't fit, I had two options. Lay the rad on its side.

Build a housing for a long, and skinny rad, plus the fans and mount it on the back of the case (look at pic)
2

The case is 8.13 outside. When you take the panels off and measure between the bottom rails you only have 7.125. Sorry but the Chevy Chevette core will not fit turn sideways.
 
I also decided to buy a Black Ice X. Those that have this core may not have gotten the results they thought they would get from this rad, but I think the reason they did not is because of the way the fans are mounted to the core. You have to use shrouds to allow the air to spin or you will have dead spots in the middle and reduce airflow having the fans mounted up against the core. The BIX is 5.9 x 5 inches and will fit in the top of the case I bought. I am going to turn the rad on its side. The airflow will be as per my drawing.
 
jrwyw. nice lighting on your blocks. and heyt dodge good luck with the prodject i was thinking though you could go and just isolate off the top area of the case. put a 120 in on the top 3 drive bays and then build a baybus or something into that.down the sides. and have a 120 exhaust in back it would be like a 2 foot long push+pull though.
 
[EG]~NaTz~ said:
jrwyw. nice lighting on your blocks. and heyt dodge good luck with the prodject i was thinking though you could go and just isolate off the top area of the case. put a 120 in on the top 3 drive bays and then build a baybus or something into that.down the sides. and have a 120 exhaust in back it would be like a 2 foot long push+pull though.

Look at my seventh post that’s the drawing of how I plan to setup the case.
 
hehe. thats not my rig (wish it was) Bongo found it somewhere, and I just saved it because it looked so cool. :)

Best of luck to you Viper. Keep us posted. Like I said, I'm getting the same case.
 
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Bonzio?????
whois that????? ROFLMAO:)

BTw:
I think that a heatercore can definetly fit into the space you want DV, (as long as its a 6" x 6" HC) ......but why would you want a rad over your powersupply.


You can alwas move your psu to a different spot.
ie:
 
Until the case arrives I have no set plans. I can insulate the H/C and P/S. Thats not a problem. The Chevy Chevette core is roughly 6 x 7.5 inches. I may be able to mount the core behind the P/S in the top three bays and duct the the air out the back. Until the case is in my hands I can only speculate. I have a new Chevy core built with three barbs in the top tanks.

I can't move the P/S to the top as my new Antex 480 watt P/S has a 92mm fan in the bottom.
 
Hehe :) I caught my mistake just 5 min after my post, and you found it. lol

Viper, what about something like this?
901st
 
It's the Koolance Case, but I might do something like it. The cases they use are Antec 1240s. I wish I could just order the top part. Even though it would probably be a bunch of $$$
 
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