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argh, power supply cooling!

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I restart my pc after a BSOD - psu temp, 63c/145f. It's only 15c/60f outside. I Turn off, open my door as far as it will go, turn my ceiling fan on, have a 40cm fan blowing directly into the psu, barely an inch away, for THREE HOURS - restart, temp is frickin 53c/125f!!! I hate this stupidity of ridiculous psu temps after you restart. It only got to 18c/65f today, so probly 25c/77f inside... I don't get this. It's going to be 25c/77f tomorrow, so indoors - 30-35c, 85/95f... so there's no way I can shut down long to cool down the psu any more (its almost 3am, its only going to get hotter) - is my psu temp meant to go down after I switch the pc on (always stays at the same temp, even if its 45c and i've been gaming for 6 hours) - why is this happening?

Finally, what temp does your psu temp run at, and what do you think the limit is? (btw, antec psu that comes with the sonata case, 380w, smartpower I think - I know that antecs are crappy, but still, doesn't explain the temp spikes and them never changing)... Speedfan is the only prog that will pick up the psu temp, tried mbm and a host of others, if its speedfans fault, what do you use?
 
I power supply is not an on demany device it puts out max power all of the time. This means the temp should stay pretty consistent. Of course if it is in the case and other coponets heat up under load it will cause the ambient temp in the case to increase therefore increasing the temp of the PSU. That doesn't seem too warm for a PSU most run pretty hot. What PSU is it?
 
I've never attempted to determine how hot any PSU runs. They just work, or they don't--and the only PSU failure I've ever had was rather obvious :( I also don't think I'd trust any stock "sensor" reporting the PSU's temperature. I know some Antecs have them, but.... (We are talking about a stock sensor, right?)

The first thing I'd do is confirm that the temperature reading is accurate using a "real" sensor (something like an infrared thermometer or a thermometer sensor on a multimeter). And, while you've got the multimeter out, check the power on the rails--if the PSU is failing you should see "not normal" voltages.

BTW, what PSU is it, and what are you running on it?
 
bchur83 said:
That is not your PSU temp. It is most likely the PWM temp, which are 2 different things.
I could swear that Antec did put "thermal sensors" on some PSUs 2-3-4 years ago (don't remember exactly, just a vague recollection, so I could be wrong). But, if PSU temp appears to be a problem I'd still want to use a tool that's actually designed to test temperature--not some OEM's extremely inexpensive add-on that was put there for marketing purposes.
 
MVC said:
I've never attempted to determine how hot any PSU runs. They just work, or they don't--and the only PSU failure I've ever had was rather obvious :( I also don't think I'd trust any stock "sensor" reporting the PSU's temperature. I know some Antecs have them, but.... (We are talking about a stock sensor, right?)

The first thing I'd do is confirm that the temperature reading is accurate using a "real" sensor (something like an infrared thermometer or a thermometer sensor on a multimeter). And, while you've got the multimeter out, check the power on the rails--if the PSU is failing you should see "not normal" voltages.

BTW, what PSU is it, and what are you running on it?

Can't tell for sure, but it's the one that comes with an antec sonata case - 380w. Their budget model I imagine, bought 3 years ago.

I'm guessing that when you're telling me to use a real sensor, shove it in there when the pc is off? If I was running the pc, I can't think of a way to measure it short of taking the psu out and the lid off. I'm sure you wouldn't reccommend that (or was that for poking around inside a powered-up CRT?)

Not all that comfortable with opening a PSU unless I have to, might have my electronics whiz
electical repair work is like zen, it requires a loving, caring approach with firm but gentle application to the device, as to be sensitive to its wishes!
(not making that uo).

bchur83: What's PWM temp, motherboard?

Immortal_Hero: How hot is "pretty hot" for you? And when you said it doesn't seem too hot for a psu, which temp were you referring to?

I've shut down a system for 15 minutes and had a drop from 58 to 50, maybe it doesn't matter how long it's off for...?
 
Well, actually as long as I was somewhat grounded I probably would stick a sensor into a running PSU to get a temp reading (we aren't going to talk about what hardware I've killed in the last ~30 years :)), but I do get your point. And, it's for situations like that that infrared sensors were developed--I'd love to have one, but I've yet to find one at the "right" price so I make do with the thermal probe that fits my Fluke.

Those older Antec PSUs left quite a bit to be desired. You didn't say what it was powering but I have a feeling you've just maxed it out. Your best bet to get good info is to post the PSU's model number and what you're running on it in the Power Supply section. There are some real experts in there.
 
I have a probe at the PSU exhaust + 6 others I monitor. :)
A probe at the psu exhaust will be very close to the average psu internal temp.
Data below is from an FSP 700W before I switched to the PC P&C 750.
The 750 runs about 2-3C warmer than the FSP.. but the 750 is noticeably Quieter (Very Quiet).
Case input temp is measured with a probe located just after the case input fan (not warmed by the HDDs).

Summer
Idle: Case Input Temp=24.7C, PSU Exh=28.9C
BF2 Load: Case Input Temp=24.3C, PSU Exh=31.1C

Fall
Idle: Case Input Temp=20.7C, PSU Exh=24.4C
BF2 Load: Case Input Temp=20.7C, PSU Exh=26.1C


In general my Lian Li PC-G70 case stays cool. The Zalman cpu cooler exhausts directly out the rear case fan and the VGA card exhausts out the side fan. All fans (except psu) are manually controlled and run at low rpm.

Try using a probe at your psu exhaust (even a Radio Shack temp display at low $).. its simple to do and interesting to monitor. Maybe you could improve your case air flow to exhaust the warmer air Before it reaches the psu... or how about a new case with good air flow characteristics.(?).
 
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