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Asus P4C800-E Droop Mod Help!!!

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Vflux

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I need someone to point out to me if these can be use for the droop mod. By looking at malves corner, he used 2 version of this mod 1 with trim pot and 1 with 28K Ohm resistor....I found some resistors at radioshack online and i would like to do the droop mod since my vcore fluctuates like hell and im tired setting my vcore at 1.85V through the bios to sustain stability....

Here is the link: Resistors

And here's the mod i'd like to do from Malve's: Malves resistor Droop Mod

As i'm doing all of this i'd like to do the vdimm also and pls list all the tools i need to get through this project.......I dont want any more volt flux under load... :cool:


Thanks In Advance:
Vflux
 

flapperhead

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yeah that one looks easy youll have no probs... the resistors are ok to use. and for equip youll need. a small pencil type soldering iron 12-15 watts some fine solder a little flux (not needed but makes solder flo better) resistors, and or pots some thin wire to attach the components to, and maybe some glue if u need it.. tweezers,plus some 3x5x magnifying glasses which helps when doing close up work with small components..
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Thanks a lot flapperhead.........so how did you do yours.....Also how bout the vdimm mod....I also ordered a digi multimeter to read the voltages see if they are working properly.....Damn i already ordered the parts....the soldering iron is a basic 5 set kit which has a 30W soldering iron some flux...and so on......do you think 30W is too much for the project?......

Here's the soldering iron i ordered: 30W Soldering Iron

Let me know if this is correct..... I will add 22K Ohm + 2.2K Ohm +3.3K Ohm = 27.5K Ohm + 1K Ohm = 28.5K Ohm I assume this should be ok according at malves corner at 28K Ohm......

I'll have a look at macci's version since it's a lot easier....2 dots i need a clear shot where to solder the wires on.....


Thanks In Advance
Vflux
 
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flapperhead

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Apr 27, 2002
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wash dc area
oh yeah, completely forgot about the mutimeter. i have an abit ic7. i did hipro5's 5in1 ic7 mod. vagp/nb/vdimm/vtt/extra capacitors. these werent fun cause on most u had to cut traces and solder smd resistors etc. about 1 mm in size..if u checked my other post youll see the vtt mod was wrong so i eventually burned my vtt power chip.as for the 30 watt iron be careful cause its hot enuff to burn ur mb quickly. i prefer a small 12/15 watt iron. goodluck, keep me informed of u progress.... flapper..
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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To be continued.........

After flashing my bios to 1009 while i was waiting for my parts, I decided to push the board one last time. Then afterwards I couldn't go to bios screen. Blank screen and the chick's voice came up stating "CPU TEST FAILED" over and over.....after that i gave up and decided to do "Droop Mod" and "Vdimm Mod" anyways and it seems that the bios could not recover. The mods were done clean and it was my first time also at soldering.


I'm getting another one and do the same but this time pls anyone who have read this do not " I repeat do not" flash your bios to an earlier revision. Stick with the latest and go on from there....If you want stable Vcore and add more juice to your ram do the mod, they're fairly easy just stay focus and take precaution as always.....

I'll be posting some pics with my mods after i recieve another P4C800-E board. ATM i'm trying to google out if I can find some info on how i can transfer the resistors/mosfets and capacitators to the new board from the dead mb. I'll try to pull a THG mod.


Ti'll here.....
Happy Modding
 
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sp00L

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Oct 24, 2003
Location
Buffalo, NY
If you're in canada, here's the best place for components:

www.sayal.ca

They sell by manufacturer's part number. Here are a few suggestions that I have personally bought from them in the Burlington, ON store:

10K 15 turn variable resistor, .75 watt, +/-10%: 3006P-1-103 - $2.00 CND
50K 15 turn variable resistor, .75 watt, +/-10%: 3006P-1-503 - $2.50 CND
100K - 3006P-1-104, $2.00 CND

If you live in the Toronto area, they have several stores you can pick it up from, usually takes a day or two for them to pull it from the warehouse. Give 'em a call. I wouldn't mess with those radioshack vr's. They are only rated for .25 W, of which I have a bag full. They'll get the job done, but the vr will allow you to fine tune your exact resistance. Also, I suggest either a 15w or 25w soldering iron, one of the cheap ones from Radioshack will do. As well as 60/40 Rosin core solder. 28 guage, ideally 30 guage wire works. I just used telephone wire because it was cheap and available. The thing about telephone wire is that it's all copper, solid, but a little harder to work with.

A 50K ohm vr for the vcore will work wonders. All of this info. maybe too late, but hope it helps. If you need a pic of the Macci alternate points, let me know and I'll dig one up for you. Geesh, this has been two weeks already :(
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Spool,

Thanks for the info bro, BTW im in toronto. Bios 1009 killed my board before i could even perform the droop mod, which i still did afterwards. It was very easy :beer: but the mobo keep giving me cpu test failed thats before and after the modd....I shoulve never pushed it in the first place. Now im hunting for a P4C800 D since it's cheaper than the E version. But I doubt i'll be getting the E again.

I just got used to the mobo's bios, which is very easy to combo with different things and takes little time to change settings.

Bro ya know any online store besides bigfoot/ncix/and vibe that offers a good deal on these asus's boards?

BTW, how does your droop mod works now and as to was before? I got a 29K Ohm fixed resistor ready to be solder on the new board ;) and 14K Ohm for the Vdimm......


Regards,
Vflux
 

sp00L

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It's working great. But I do think I fooked my first board even though it still works, sort of. What I noticed was varying the vr after a few months, I either got 1.62 vcore or 1.48, nothing inbetween where as before I either got what I had set in the bios, or about 0.1 more which is the way it should work.

Try www.canadacomputers.com it's where I got my first board. They are usually cheaper than other stores in Canada.
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Spool,

Thanks for the hook up bro, yup their prices are a little cheaper than the competition :D which is A+ to me.....I'll grab the P4C800 DX since this is the board that all the bigboys are using at xtremesystems....

I've been doing some researching lately on how i can unsolder the mosfets/caps etc from the dead mobo and place them to the new mobo, I've read a thread before but i couldnt find it.......

What's your max oced you had before the mod and after and how much did you gained from the droop mod? BTW, Did you ever had some warm boot issues with your board? I sure did with mine at 257FSB sometimes it restarts properly and sometimes it dont.... :mad: which suck big time....

Where did you get your mushkin Level II ram? :D



Regards,
Vflux
 

sp00L

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Oct 24, 2003
Location
Buffalo, NY
To be honest, I gained maybe 1 mhz. I thought I had gained 232 vs 225 and was running 3.71 G for a while, but a little prime testing, using long and short tests instead of short and blend, showed the system unstable. The main reason to do the droop mod is if your chip needs 1.6-1.65 stable. Northies tend to max out at 3.6 until you go phase change.

If you get a new board, you'll probably notice the extra mosfets already on it since I think Asus prepped newer boards for prescott.

I haven't had any cold boot issues, but I think they are related to going over 250 on the fsb. Maybe try some active nb cooling. Either one of Swiftech or Thermalright's nb coolers will help when going 250+. I got my mushkin's at Newegg several months back. If you're looking for BH5, I'd suggest the classifieds here or at xtremesystems or try your luck on Ebay.

I've heard good things about the new samsung ic's doing tight timings up to 225, but if I were you, I'd get some ddr500 and run 1:1, just a suggestion.

Canada Computers has stores all over and you probably drop buy and check it out. The sales people are very rude, but very knowledgeable. I picked up an unlocked 2500+ from them back in October.
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Spool,

I had all the cooling covered BTW, 92mm Tornado Intake and Exhaust and Side Panel :attn: then SP-94 with another 92mm Tornado and Swiftech NB Cooler :D and all the rest of the mosfets sinked :D lol....so it's definetely not cooling.......

But this board that died overvolted like crazy in windows and droop so much while loaded...I just dont understand why they cant jack the prices down to bout $150 canadian lol.....nothing interesting bout the board but the ram compatibility.....or they could have at least included some mosfets/caps/soldering iron etc and an instruction manual to where to solder them....lol.....no pun intended to asus....

What rev is your board?

I'll keep an eye on that store you pointed me out to....they might start cutting prices down.......


Regards,
Vflux
 

sp00L

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Both of my boards were rev 2.00 which is wierd cuz the new one has more parts on it. What did you sink the mosfets with? Any pics?
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Spool,

Can you give me more info bout the new P4C800-E Deluxe having more parts pls? Yup i have the rev 2 also but as I mentioned before that the overvoltage and undervoltage on this board is rediculous.

I got them all sinked with OCZ copper ramsinks which is very expensive for the fets...got them through at vibe 2 packs of 8

So bro how does the new P4C800-E DX compare to the earlier boards or revisions? Do they have more caps and fets etc..........



T>I>A
Vflux
 

sp00L

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I notice about 3 more mosfets. 1 extra around 3 different sides of the cpu. On the older board you can see silver squares where components should go, but didn't. This new board has all those silver squares filled with mosfets. Also, the old board had green colored capacitors, the tallest on the board. The new board has the tallest caps all in brown, probably different supplier. Finally, I noticed the old board had a sticker that said "P4C800E rev 2.00" where the new board has this same phrase printed right on the pcb.

The vcore still fluctuates like mad without the droop mod. Functionally I've only noticed that it boots a wee bit slow, the windows bar normally goes across 2.5 times before loading, now it's like 2.7 times. And the cpu temperature is different. With water I was idling at 25-26 which is ambient in the room. Now only the system idles at ambient and the cpu is 29-30. I've read that Asus boards under-report the cpu by as much as 5 C. This seems to be fixed. I've reseated the water block with AS5 enough times to know I've got good contact.

Other than that, everything else looked and was colored the same. It runs smooth as ice. Same stupid n/b cooler with the same thermal pad as the old board too. I think the added components were for prescott support mainly. Bios and everything else works the same as before.
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Yup I know what you're talking bout the 2 green tallest caps on the board...So noticed how there are 2 mosfets on top of the socket and the left corner also...but there are 2 spots of mosfets on each side that are missing, do you mean they already put those fets in place?
How bout inside the cpu socket, is it still the same thing where there's 1 black cap and 4 tiny ones. I'ld like to take those out on my dead mobo and maybe put them on the new board. I'll probably do that when i get bored. They've just jacked up the price again, I just checked through some canadian vendors.

Have you seen those early reviews of P4C800 DX board where there are no missing caps and fets....wish i had one of them boards....but it's only available for reviewers....

Spool check out this pic: P4C800 DX Complete Package let me know if it's almost like this one....


T.I.A
Vflux
 

Pro*Banshee

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Mar 27, 2004
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hey, with your droop mod, depending upon the gauge of the wire you use (if it's solid core, or braided wire), glue the wires to that vacant IC there. Doing this takes the strain off of the wires if they say happen to get snagged on a heatsink and rip off the SMD components as well as the trace.

It never really happened to me, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
 

sp00L

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I have fets in those empty slots. There are no empty slots on my board. Inside the cpu socket looked identical to my old board. From the pic you posted, that's what I have. All of the spots have fets. The tall green caps to the right are brown on mine. I've read that the P4C non-deluxe oc's the seam and could save you $$$. I doubt the CSA enet is all that great.
 
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Vflux

Vflux

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Pro*Banshee that's what exactly I did on the droop mod...I first glued the wire in place on to the 2 dots then just put a drop of solder in place..it's almost a trace on the mobo but my wires are long just in case i need to remove it. I would just have to cut the wire and add another fixed resistor in. :attn:

Spool yeah bro my dead P4C800-E board was bought in houston texas, when my xgf went for vacation just recently.. here's the place where she got it from www.directron.com

From what you've told me bout no empty fets missing on you're board I doubt i'll be grabbing another one, I'd make sure this time I won't flash it to an earlier bios since that's what killed my board in the first place and not the droop mod plust the dead board took a lot of beating from benchmarking etc maxed out the board all the time.......but the board i posted to you almost the kind of board Tomshardware used for the 5Ghz project.....There are enough amps to go around for the cpu.......That's probably the reason why people have and have not seen results from the droop mod coz from what it's all doing is just tightening the current amp and reading on the board so they stay more constant....But the power that's being provided to the cpu is still the same. Unless they replaced the caps with higher output but most is luck of the draw so nobody knows how well they when it they get pushed to the max.....



T.I.A
Vflux
 

meionm

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Mar 8, 2004
Vflux said:
Pro*Banshee that's what exactly I did on the droop mod...I first glued the wire in place on to the 2 dots then just put a drop of solder in place..it's almost a trace on the mobo but my wires are long just in case i need to remove it. I would just have to cut the wire and add another fixed resistor in. :attn:

Gluing then putting solder drops on it, sounds like trouble,

I done two vcore mods for asus p4c800dlx one for newer board and one for older both rev2, during test in newer board a chip inside socket crack and the mobo burned, the older one works find and gives better result as well both mobos where pushed to 4.5Ghz, I judge mobos which is newer by the bios revison on the sticker on the top of bios