ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME III - Help - No BIOS?

[Eaks77]

Hello,

Specs:
MOBO: ASUS ROG RAMPAGE EXTREME III
CPU: i7 980x
RAM - 1 stick of DDR3 1333 in A1 Slot
SSD - N/A
GPU: GTX 960

Good day community!

I don't know the history of this particular Motherboard and CPU i have, but it's new to me and I'm determined to get it running!

Once it's turned on, I get 1 BEEP and it goes into the following screens:
#1 - http://tinypic.com/r/2e30n6v/9
PRESS: DELETE
#2 - http://tinypic.com/r/e6aede/9
HUNG - I can hit F8 and ALT-F2, but never goes to another screen.

Things I've tried doing with no imrpovements:

• Swapping bios chips as it's always showing the BIOS#1 LED PIC: http://tinypic.com/r/ne26h/9
• Tried ASUS Flash back on both Bios #1 & #2
• Tried plugging in a bootable USB drive (windows 10 and Memtest)
• Swapped CPU out for a i7 920 and replaced ram for 2x4GB

NOTE: There are no unusual LED warnings that I can see... other than "No boot device" but I expect that with no SSD plugged in....

I almost feel like there's no BIOS. Any help, suggestions, comments would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[Mr.Scott]

Locking up in the bios is either power, ram, or temp.
What PSU?
What cooling?
980X is power hungry and hot.
Single stick of ram goes in red slot closest to CPU.
What does the Q led stop on?
I assume you have cleared the CMOS at least.
I also assume you have all of the voltage jumpers set at normal.

 

[Eaks77]

Hey Mr.Scott,

I appreciate your response! Here are my answers:
- EVGA 750W G3 - I know it might be a little light, but it's not powering anything but the MOBO.
- Cooling:CPU - RAIJINTEK AIDOS 92mm CPU Cooler (simple amazon cooler for now) NOTE: The North and South Bridges we're originally watercooled. These heatsinks have since been removed and generic aluminum heatsink (w/fan) have been added. It's hard to gauge if heating is an issue, but wouldn't suspect without the computer under load, particularly when the PC is just being booted up and turned off within 15 seconds. Either way, I dont suspect heat being an issue at this point... let me know your thoughts.
- Yes, single stick of 4GB 1333 ram in A1 slow, closest, red slot to the CPU. I also tried 2x4 1600 ram... same result.
- Only Q LED that stays lit up is the boot device... which is understandable since I don't have any drives plugged in. [UPDATE] I plugged in a SSD into a couple SATA ports and same result... QLED=Boot Device
- Yes, i've cleared CMOS.
- Don't see any voltage jumpers... just have a Clear CMOS jumper (enabled) and LN2 Jumper (disabled)

Same result....

I look forward to hearing back.

 

[trents]

Hey Mr.Scott,

I appreciate your response! Here are my answers:
- EVGA 750W G3 - I know it might be a little light, but it's not powering anything but the MOBO.
- Cooling:CPU - RAIJINTEK AIDOS 92mm CPU Cooler (simple amazon cooler for now) NOTE: The North and South Bridges we're originally watercooled. These heatsinks have since been removed and generic aluminum heatsink (w/fan) have been added. It's hard to gauge if heating is an issue, but wouldn't suspect without the computer under load, particularly when the PC is just being booted up and turned off within 15 seconds. Either way, I dont suspect heat being an issue at this point... let me know your thoughts.
- Yes, single stick of 4GB 1333 ram in A1 slow, closest, red slot to the CPU. I also tried 2x4 1600 ram... same result.
- Only Q LED that stays lit up is the boot device... which is understandable since I don't have any drives plugged in. [UPDATE] I plugged in a SSD into a couple SATA ports and same result... QLED=Boot Device
- Yes, i've cleared CMOS.
- Don't see any voltage jumpers... just have a Clear CMOS jumper (enabled) and LN2 Jumper (disabled)

Same result....

I look forward to hearing back.

After the CMOS is cleared you need to put the jumper back in the default pin position.

 

[Eaks77]

Thanks Trents. I tried it with it disabled too. Same outcome.

 

[trents]

If you tried to clear the CMOS while power was still active to the motherboard you may have fried the bios. You should always switch the PSU off or unplug it from the wall before doing this and hit the front panel power button to drain the caps on the PSU and the board before attempting to clear the CMOS.

But as I understand it, these are used components to begin with and you are not sure if you received them in working order?

 

[EarthDog]

I don't think I have ever jumped through those hoops to reset cmos before. I just press the button.

 

[trents]

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-clear-cmos-2624545
"Make sure your computer is unplugged and then open it up. Look around your motherboard's surface for a jumper (as shown in the picture) with the CLEAR CMOS label, which will be located on the motherboard and near the jumper."

https://www.howtogeek.com/131623/how-to-clear-your-computers-cmos-to-reset-bios-settings/
The exact location of the jumper can be found in the motherboard’s (or computer’s) manual. You should consult the manual for more detailed instructions if you want to use the motherboard jumper.
However, the basic process is fairly similar on all computers. Flip the computer’s power switch to off to ensure it’s not receiving any power.



https://www.evga.com/support/faq/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=58094
"Use the following procedure to clear CMOS using the reset CMOS jumper:

1. Turn off the AC power supply and connect pins 1 and 2 together using the jumper cap.

2. Return the jumper setting to normal (pins 2 and 3 together with the jumper cap).

3. Turn the AC power supply back on."



In life I have on many occasions taken shortcuts and gotten away with it most of the time but then there comes that one time when it catches up with me.

 

[EarthDog]

Any website can tell users what to do... but WHY? What is the reason this should be done??

Perhaps I have been lucky the 1000+ times I've done it over the last 15 years.

Evga is the only AIB stating to do this in their manuals?

It typically power it off, but never have i unplugged it.. I surely dont buy into unplugging... but powering the PC off, yes.

 

[Eaks77]

Thanks for the insight with clearing the CMOS. The CMOS was cleared as per manual instructions. Hit the red button towards the back of the board, near the i/o's. Then hold the delete key during start up.... All while the jumper for the CMOS is enabled..... Same result.

Is it possible that both of my BIOS chip's are fried / garbage? If so.... Could I grab another chip from another, different Asus board and then do a flashback to install proper bios?

 

[trents]

I wouldn't focus on the bios necessarily being the problem. It could be a bad motherboard in some other way or a bad CPU. Really, the only way to tell is the process of elimination involving swapping out parts with known good parts.

 

[Mr.Scott]

I do not suspect the bios. I suspect the board at this point.
Is this board new to you?, and has it ever ran since you got it?

 

[freeagent]

I have the LN2 enabled, just because of the sag, flipped the jumper no more sag. Did you get the gpu with the board? Do you have another? Is that the ram that came with the board? Do you have any others? I know my board can get really finicky at times, but usually some different ram fixes it or pulling the battery. Speaking of.. how is that battery? Some boards don't like having a dead bios battery, and wont work till you get one.

 

[Ozz1]

what free agent said , id certainly try that, some boards for whatever reason are battery power eaters, DFI boards are one of them, a low battery will also drain the cmos settings, pull the battery, put the clr cmos jumper on manually and let it sit for a day or 2, gigabyte boards are prone to this sort of behavior too, many gig boards have been revived this way, not saying yours will tho, but their bios chip is soldered to the board, least asus had the brains to have a removable bios chip for easy replacement, also, if the main bios chip is corrupt it will go to the back up bios chip no2, if thats corrupt as well well it wont boot, it shows in the screen pic its utilised the usb (done) so its going thru some of its motions, try pulling both bios chips 1 at a time to see if you get any different result, (power off the unit first), but try a new battery first after its sat for a while with the cmos jumper on clear position, make sure you replace the cmos jumper to default 1-2, not on the 2-3 position b4 you power it up , and beleive me its easy to forget to do, put tome tape or something over the power on button on the board to remind you to do the cmos jumper switch FIRST,

 

[MaddMutt]

I will try to help as I have OWNed 3 and Destroyed all while Benching
You should be able to choose which BIOS to boot from #1 or #2 by using the RED button in the bottom right of MB. You do not need to pull the BIOS chip out from one to the other. Do both BIOS (when booted from) read Version 0402?? This is the First Release of the BIOS for this MB - 04-08-2010. <- Could be bad BIOS Chips. A new one should run < $20.00
Do you ever get into the BIOS by using the DEL KEY...If so your BIOS is OKAY. You need to start looking somewhere else.
Do you have a second MB/computer to make a bootable USB drive. If so, Can you Flash the BIOS to a newer Version. If the answer is NO..Then the BIOS chip is fried.
If the answer is yes But the computer still stops....Make a Bootable DOS USB drive. You should then be able to choose this as boot drive and be able to run mem-test.
No..NO..NOOO -- Do not use another BIOS Chip from ANY OTHER MB except for a Asus R3E BIOS chip. <- Even then it could BORK the board. I purchased a used R3E that had an Unreleased BIOS Flashed to it. I got the same message that you are getting, except mine was BIOS Version 1702. The last official Version was 1502 11-07-2011.
^ this all goes only IF..IF you can get into the BIOS. -- 1 BEEP means that the MB PASTED it's P.O.S.T. test. This would indicate that the BIOS, MB, Mem, and CPU are functioning. This does not check the Additional - Marvel or JMB363 HDD chip, NEC USB chip, VIA chip, LAN and Audio chips. It did not matter that I could flash the BIOS to XXX Version as the problem was after this.
IIRC - My board was busted because of a BAD secondary chip. Like the Audio, LAN, or the USB 2/3 chip. I never got mine to work (did not really try) BUT you should be able to turn these off in the BIOS and get it to boot. I sold it early last year on E-Bay for parts.
If not then you have a busted board

I hope this helped

 

[mellytew65]

hi
you are talking about MOBO: ASUS ROG RAMPAGE EXTREME III , i think you can do this , or for more you have to contact google , thanks
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