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Bad memory or bad mobo?

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petteyg359

Likes Popcorn
Joined
Jul 31, 2004
Why I think I'm just being stupid and oblivious to something obvious and that my mobo and/or memory and/or processor are NOT bad:

1. I don't think even a cheap processor temp sensor would give a reading that is 35C below actual temp. Also, I am pretty sure the temp reading was correct, as when I had all BIOS settings at default it reported temps that seemed correct.

2. I just bought new 1GB (2x512) PQI Turbo PC3200 Dual Channel (2.5-3-3-7).

3. Processor is AMD Athlon XP 2700+. AMD's site says max temp is 85C and max voltage is 2.0V.

Why I think my memory and/or motherboard and/or processor might be bad:

1. My old memory (A-Data (V-Data sticker, probably value series) 512MB PC3200) that I thought had failed, is of a brand that some threads on here say is good stuff.

2. My diagnostic LED bracket (that came with my MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR board) keeps stopping at the "Initializing Memory" light pattern; manual says LEDs hang there if memory is bad or incorrectly installed. Is it possible that just the DDR slots are dead? I've tried moving sticks around to every possible combination and still no luck. There is a light pattern before the memory one that is labeled "Initializing CPU" and manual says it stops there if processor is bad or incorrectly installed. Some people say that the LEDs are not a good indicator.

3. Neither of the sticks of new memory (PQI Turbo Dual Channel PC3200 1GB (2x512MB)) works in any slot by themselves, or together in any combination of slots.


When I first started the comp with all hardware together, the mobo's default FSB was set in BIOS to 100, so my 2700+ was seen as a 1500+. I raised the FSB to 166, which is what it should be at for 333MHz bus 2700+, which is what I have. It ran fine. I decided to o/c a little. Gradually boosted FSB to 180 with many restarts to test stability at each step. At that point vcore was at 1.675. I had been gradually raising it along with FSB. I then moved beyond 180 to 182 (next step in MSI BIOS). System refused to boot then. This is the first time the LEDs stopped at memory. I couldn't even boot far enough to get to the BIOS and move back down. So I removed CMOS battery, unplugged the power supply, hit the power switch a few times, and left for an hour. Came back, hit switch a few more times, then put back in battery and plugged in p/s. Still wouldn't come on, with lights at init memory pattern. I decided then that my memory must be bad. So I returned it and bought the new PQI stuff. Still having the same trouble. I've done the CMOS reset deal several times now. The system is on air cooling, a 80mm processor fan with a large aluminum heatsink (Aerocool X-Raider, look for it on newegg or on Aerocool's website, if you want to see it); I used OCZ Ultra 5+ on the heatsink and proc die. Also have 3 case fans (front/back/side). I have a Celestica Radeon 9200SE 128MB AGP8X graphics card. When I boot I get no video, maybe this means my video is dead, not my memory? (but LED pattern for booting VGA bios comes after init memory in manual...) Anybody else know if you can actually boot to BIOS screen without memory installed? I really need help with this, I've spent almost $500 building this system and don't want to have to send it all back (not only would it have been a waste of money and paying 15% restock at newegg, I'd have to pay a darn lot of shipping).

The computer was running fine when I was at 180FSB.
 
This is from the mobo manual page 2-31:

"MSI reminds You....
If your computer hang while overclocking, please reset J10 to safe mode and reboot. After rebooting, enter BIOS Setup menu to reload the BIOS Defaults and reset J10 to user mode."
 
DaWiper: Done that already, but I'll do it again right now to make sure.

flapperhead: I'd do that, but after paying shipping to send back two bad PC-Chips motherboards, and a A-Data (V-Data sticker, presumably Value series) 512MB PC3200 chip to newegg, and two broken UV tubes to tigerdirect, I'm not in the mood to ship anything right now unless nobody gives me any better ideas... In case I did ship it to you, would a flate rate priority mail envelope (with lots of bubble wrap around the chip(s), of course) be safe?
 
No luck with J10. I tried it, and still nothing, but now I get a long beep, long pause, long beep, long pause, etc.

Put J10 back, and I'm still getting that beep code.
 
petteyg359 said:
No luck with J10. I tried it, and still nothing, but now I get a long beep, long pause, long beep, long pause, etc.

Put J10 back, and I'm still getting that beep code.

well uv done all reasonable things to do. the only thing is to start eliminating or swapping out components one at a time..
 
No, but the 512MB which I returned to newegg was too late to refund, so a new one (repair) is being shipped soon. I'll probably have that in 4 or 5 days. I can check the video in case it's bad, as I have an extra 64MB MX440 in a box somewhere which I know is working (at least it was in my cousin's computer). I won't be able to check for a day or two though as I'm gone this weekend. Any more ideas, keep posting, I'll read them all when I get back.
 
The reason I ask is that sometimes when I benchmark and run into a booting problem I cant get the board to post without putting in some completely different memory, then I can reinstall the stuff I'm testing and continue to bench. Weird, eh?
 
The bios beep code means bad mem. This might be a long shot, but I've run into a similar problem once with a stick of crucial pc2700 valueram on a k7n2-l. RMA'ed it and got it returned from the shop with a letter where they stated that the stick was 100% ok.
The sollution was to wriggle the chip In the slot. I had to try it in several different position before I got it to work.
Took me almost an hour, but the chip still works this day. (DON'T wriggle it with the power on.)
The problem with my chip was that it was a extremly tight fit. It didn't make good contact with the pins.
But, as I said, this is a long shot... I would try it though....

Here's link to bios beepcodes:http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm
 
Am back from camp now. Will try the wiggle as soon as I eat lunch. Will reply as to whether it works.
 
Um... tried a little wiggling... Not sure exactly what I'm supposed to do, though. The chips tilt a little from side to side in the slots, and do not seem to go all the way into the slots. Any way to force it all the way in the slot without breaking something?
 
What I meant was to move the chip to left, boot, se if it worked, move it less to the left, boot. see if it worked, to the right, etc. But as I said, this is a long shot.
What do you mean not all the way into the slot? are the chips secured by their clips?
 
The chips came with "heat spreaders" on them. The spreaders are hitting the top edge of the slot before the memory is all the way in. I have managed to halfway remove a spreader from one of the chips, one side is simply attached by a sticky sheet but I am having trouble removing the other side from the chip, it seems to be attached more sturdily. Anybody else that has had to remove heat spreaders that came on the chip, might tell me how to do it without damaging the chip? I think if I can get the spreaders off the chips, they'll fit fine.
 
I removed the spreaders (probably wasn't necessary, now that I have it working) and wiggled the chips. Wiggling did nothing from side to side. So I wiggled it up in the slot. Poof. I now have a working system. When my other memory comes back from newegg, I'll either sell it or install it and have 1.5GB memory. Now I am wondering this... How do I make it dual channel? I have one in DIMM1 and one in DIMM3, which is the one by itself and the different color. I don't know how to tell if it does it by default, or I have to turn it on?
 
Good work! It says "dual channel" on the screen during boot right after your total memory is displayed.
 
Yep, just noticed that after I rebooted for Windows Update. Thanks for help.
 
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