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Blackice Extreme vs. Heater core

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The thing Im trying to say with the paint is that it acts as a barrier between the fins and the air. That means that the heat would have to pass to the tubes then to the fins then to the paint and finally to the air. However if it werent painted, it would be just from he tubes to the fins to the air, a more direct route. The only reason that I think that the paint would make a difference is that the stuff in the paint isnt as good as conducting heat, so it would slow down the heat transfer. Keep in mind that what I am saying I have never tested, only a thought of mine.
 
EclipseJP said:
I just ordered one on friday. Ill tell you guys how well it works. I currently have the stock Blizzard Z4 radiator. So ill compare and contrast the two. The reason I got the black ixe is because its gunna be mounted inside of my pc. I dont wanna have a radiator outside of my box. Keep it incognito :)
EclipseJP
You are about in the best position for testing. Seeing that you are replacing that little rad in a few days, would you paint that thing black for us and see if it helps or hurts the performance of the rad?



rivercom9
I have been in this debate many times with no real difinitive answer. I have also been in mechanics, engeneering and fabriction 20+ years(racecars hince my nic) and don't claim to know everything, but just fall back on some of the things I have learned. Maybe EclipseJP will help us out by painting that rad. My thought is that temps will probably be the same.
 
Im pretty sure that paint DOES hinder performance, but probably only a bit. I wish they made the BlackIceXtremes unpainted so that we could compare. The type of paint would also make a difference, like plastic paint compared to metal type paints.
 
rivercom9 said:
Im pretty sure that paint DOES hinder performance, but probably only a bit. I wish they made the BlackIceXtremes unpainted so that we could compare. The type of paint would also make a difference, like plastic paint compared to metal type paints.
This is normally when I leave the debate about painted rads and continue painting them because I like the look and doesn't seem to hinder my temps:D

If you want a BIX not painted. Just cap the tubes and dip in a caustic bath and rinse well. But, they might be painted for a reason. Maybe they are painted black just to inhibt exterior corrosion. Good possibilty.
 
Good point racecar. The paint is probably just a sealant to protect the entire rad from corroding from the exterior.
 
Painted black? I always thought it was anodized black rather than painted. But then again i'm not too sure as i'm still waiting for it to arrive in the post.
 
racecar12 said:
EclipseJP
You are about in the best position for testing. Seeing that you are replacing that little rad in a few days, would you paint that thing black for us and see if it helps or hurts the performance of the rad?


Sure. Ill paint it black and tell you what the temp differences are. I have a digi doc 5 and have a temp probe on the bottom of my cpu waterblock as close as I can get to the cpu. Ill post the results as soon as I get the Black Ice Xteme. This will be an interesting project.
 
PROPs my friend:burn: Paint it black now and see if it performs better than just in the raw. Check your average temps in mbm before painting and run it a day or so in black to see if it helps at all with the temps.:cool:
 
Makaijin said:
Painted black? I always thought it was anodized black rather than painted. But then again i'm not too sure as i'm still waiting for it to arrive in the post.
Anodizing is for Aluminum AFAIK & the BIX is made out of Cu.

Painting would result in lower performance since the temps we deal with are relatively cool compared to other heat generating systems such as car engines so a small decrease in temps that are not noticable in engines are a big difference for computers. Now the real questions are;

1. How big or significant would the difference be w/o paint?

2. By how much does it affect your overclock if you only get a 1°C cooler when not painted?

3. Would you strip it knowing that in a few months you will have oxidation on the surface that will also hinder performance?
 
Painting would most definitely decrease the performance. There are no ifs ands or buts about it. It not only introduces another layer of less conductive material that the energy must move through, but more importantly it creates another thermal interface over which there will be a thermal resistance and drop in temperature.

Now the real question is, how much does it change the performance?

BTW, oxidation and other degradation of a metal surface will also hinder heat transfer in most cases.
 
We will soon find out. EclipseJP is about to tell us of any diffs between painting and not painting.

Oh yeah, Eclipse, make sure that you take note of every variable that you can masure, especially ambient air temp and the rpm of the fan and such.
 
Anodizing isn't just for aluminium.

I remember back in my highschool days, where i did an experiment with 2 iron nails connected to a 5v PSU.
The nails were dipped into a solution of copper sulphate and i left it in school overnight.
Came back next morning and guess what I ended up with?
One rusted nail and another plated in copper!
I can't remember which nail was connected to which polarity, but i do remember ending up with a nail that was a orangy green colour. After I cleaned it up it certainly looked like copper to me.

I think they use a similar technique to gold plate contacts, it's not as if they melt a gold ingot and place the connector in it are they?
 
The true reason for painting a copper rad is corrosion... Yes it will hinder heat transfer when corroded... I think now is best to paint it... While at the begining it will be a bad idea, over time the corrosion will hinder more that the paint... and the paint inhibits corrosion... So... what you guys think???
 
Makaijin said:
Anodizing isn't just for aluminium.

I remember back in my highschool days, where i did an experiment with 2 iron nails connected to a 5v PSU.
The nails were dipped into a solution of copper sulphate and i left it in school overnight.
Came back next morning and guess what I ended up with?
One rusted nail and another plated in copper!
I can't remember which nail was connected to which polarity, but i do remember ending up with a nail that was a orangy green colour. After I cleaned it up it certainly looked like copper to me.

I think they use a similar technique to gold plate contacts, it's not as if they melt a gold ingot and place the connector in it are they?
What you were doing was electroplating. Anodizing is building a layer of Al oxide onto the skin of Al then hardening that layer for protection. Color can be inserted before the curing of the oxide by using dyes. You guys ever wonder why it's called ANODIZED?

Isnt there another process that can be done for a protective coating on the Cu besides painting?
 
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racecar12 said:
hands down the heatercore will outperforum the blackice rads.:cool:
prove it........i personaly feel that the black ice has more then a chance of winning this one...it better for that price tag......
 
heatercore without a doubt. there are a few reviews out there. do a google search. and the bib momma owns the BIX.
the BIX isnt supposed to be all that great
-Malakai
 
Malakai said:
heatercore without a doubt. there are a few reviews out there. do a google search. and the bib momma owns the BIX.
the BIX isnt supposed to be all that great
-Malakai

Do give us an url, much appreciated.

Btw, we're talking of heatercores as opposed to the black ice xtreme. But the bix IS a heatercore from design, is it not?
 
Even if the BlackIceExtreme is better than the HC, I would still go with the HC just for being much cheaper. Thats what helps me make my decisions, my pockets.
 
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