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Can i mix copper and cast iron

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havor

Registered
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Norway
High I have a spare cast iron pomp laying around, but was wondering if i could use it in a loop whit copper blocks and filled whit Feser One Cooling Fluid

As they are pretty far apart in the galvanic index list
Stainless Steel -100
Titanium -150
Bronze -360
Brass -360
Copper -360
Lead -510
Steel -610
Cast Iron -610
Aluminium -750
Zinc -1130

The pomp can deliver 5~20 M3/h :drool:

166_0.jpg
 

Jeffery_Paul

Registered
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Location
Australia
to be honest, I would be more inclined to just buy a D5 (MCP655-B) and leave the cast iron pump for another day. Getting a proper WC pump means it has the right fittings, nice compact size, is quiet and reliable in that application.

Can't help ya with the mixing metals thing tho sorry, but from someone who doesn't know what he's looking at in a galvanic table's point of view, I would say they wouldn't go so well together. Copper and brass are often put togeth without any worry, but look at the values on the chart, both ~360. whereas aluminum is a much higher value and can't be put with copper safely. Cast iron is also a lot higher number, so I would say thats indication that they don't mix.
 

billb

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
High I have a spare cast iron pomp laying around, but was wondering if i could use it in a loop whit copper blocks and filled whit Feser One Cooling Fluid

The pomp can deliver 5~20 M3/h

For the lsat 40 years or so cast iron pumps and copper tubing has been used in pretty much all residential and commercial hydronic heating systems. So your pump would be fine ...corrosion wise.

If you look up the P-Q curve for that pump you will see that it's sweet spot is 4.5 psi at 5 gallons per minute, which you're NOT going to see in a WC system.
The pump will be running extremely inefficiently. That fact, combined with the massive heat dump these types of pumps deliver, the pump will probably add more heat to a WC system that a massively overvolted CPU!
 

the_cultie

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
If you go ahead with that pump you'll have a nice quiet pump. Much quieter than the D5 in my opinion
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Iron pumps would be fine in a linear pumping system. But ours recirculates the water time and time again. The pump will begin to rust on the inside in time, the water with it's rust just goes down the pipe to a faucet.

It will build up in your loop, staining tubing and causing problems.

Besides, trying to make the fittings match up etc, kinda hard to do. It's 230VAC, not easy to hook up like our 12VDC pumps that run off the PSU.
 

Boulard83

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
+1 Conum !

IN house usage, water only flow 1 time in the pump. Our WC system are REcirculating the water, this cause the galvanic corosion. Cast Iron and Copper are too far in the chart.

Its a no go !
 

mudajama

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
lol that thing is rediculous. You should mount it in the basement, then run a central computer cooling loop. Hell w that hose diameter u could use a car radiator w a squirlcage blower fan or radiator fan pwrd by a bat charger or sumthin.
 

rustyfender

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Location
Prince George, B.C.
For the lsat 40 years or so cast iron pumps and copper tubing has been used in pretty much all residential and commercial hydronic heating systems. So your pump would be fine ...corrosion wise.

WRONG!

i spent the last couple years working in a HVAC engineering firm and we spent so much time replaceing entire systems because there had been cast iron and copper in the same system! so yes it has been done plenty BUT NOT BY ANYBODY THAT KNOWS ANYTHING!!! cause if you have iron and copper in the system you must run water treatment and that always gets neclected... then i had to come along and tell the building owner that the reason the whole system leaks everywhere is because nobody did the watertreatment. then we would install a new system made entirly of copper pipe and the pump housings were bronze. and ive seen thses systems go 40 some odd years with just a glycol sol'n to prevent frezzing cause thats a serious problem up in northern canada whree im from. and they never have corrosion problems.

so do not use that cast iron pump if you know whats good for ya on that not if the housing for the pump were bronze you would be fine just make sure you dont have any alum in your system
 

Jeffery_Paul

Registered
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Location
Australia
So I think we have reached the conclusion that this is not a viable option. Time to buy a new pump. Your cast iron pump will find use one day, just tuck it in your garage like the rest of your things you don't want to throw away but don't have a current use for, and pick up yourself a 335 or 655 :)

Hope we helped.

Jeff
 

Ben333

Folding for Team 32!
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
If you look up the P-Q curve for that pump you will see that it's sweet spot is 4.5 psi at 5 gallons per minute, which you're NOT going to see in a WC system.
The pump will be running extremely inefficiently. That fact, combined with the massive heat dump these types of pumps deliver, the pump will probably add more heat to a WC system that a massively overvolted CPU!

Bill knows the ways of water cooling. +1, that pump isn't ideal for many reasons.
 
OP
havor

havor

Registered
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Norway
Sorry to reply so late have bin a long time sins i was here, and needed to wait to get the post approved by a admin first.
And then life got in the way to reply ;)
If you look up the P-Q curve for that pump you will see that it's sweet spot is 4.5 psi at 5 gallons per minute, which you're NOT going to see in a WC system.
The Pump has 3 settings 25/35/45W so I think cavitation would not be a problem on the lower settings.
Specially because like all looped systems its a push-pull system

The pump will be running extremely inefficiently. That fact, combined with the massive heat dump these types of pumps deliver, the pump will probably add more heat to a WC system that a massively overvolted CPU!
Whit only 25/35/45W the heat dump would be ok i think

Iron pumps would be fine in a linear pumping system. But ours recirculates the water time and time again. The pump will begin to rust on the inside in time, the water with it's rust just goes down the pipe to a faucet.

It will build up in your loop, staining tubing and causing problems.
The cooling fluid i wane use is f

From Feser-One webside said:


No other additives are needed, we have 4 anti corrosives inside!

.
Corrosion protection
For longer lifetime of your system ...

Our priority for the liquids is to improve the corrosion protection. Different manufacturers of liquid cooling systems use different metals in their systems. To protect all these kinds of metals we developed a cooling agent, which protects the metals COPPER, ALUMINIUM, BRASS and NICKEL.

The characteristic is here with the inhibitors, which prevents the corrosion of all metal parts in the cooling circuit at the same time.

By this new development it is compatible with each system.

Besides, trying to make the fittings match up etc, kinda hard to do.
The fittings i all ready, have working maintenance on a oil-refinery you get your hands on any type of fittings you can think of.

It's 230VAC, not easy to hook up like our 12VDC pumps that run off the PSU.
That's not a real problem, simple relay will do the trick fine

WRONG!

i spent the last couple years working in a HVAC engineering firm and we spent so much time replaceing entire systems because there had been cast iron and copper in the same system! so yes it has been done plenty BUT NOT BY ANYBODY THAT KNOWS ANYTHING!!! cause if you have iron and copper in the system you must run water treatment and that always gets neclected... then i had to come along and tell the building owner that the reason the whole system leaks everywhere is because nobody did the watertreatment. then we would install a new system made entirly of copper pipe and the pump housings were bronze. and ive seen thses systems go 40 some odd years with just a glycol sol'n to prevent frezzing cause thats a serious problem up in northern canada whree im from. and they never have corrosion problems.

so do not use that cast iron pump if you know whats good for ya on that not if the housing for the pump were bronze you would be fine just make sure you dont have any alum in your system
I planing to replace the coolant every year would it still be a problem
 

jr1

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Location
norway
If i understand it correctlu that pump gives from 5k to 20k lph and on lowest setting that gives you roughly 85 lpm or 22 gpm
If i'm rememberring correct anything more than 2,5 to 3 gpm woun't give you much of a performance gain
For heatdump to the loop i don't think it will be much more than a mcp355 that is 18w since this here one is just 24w on the lowest setting
I have no idea of how it would effect cavitation in the cpublock but i would magine it would be pretty tough on it
Also i would change the water more like every 6 months or so to make sure it wasn't rusting in the loop