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Chip Set water blocks, What holds them on?

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Feb 4, 2001
I fond this chipset water block over at Danger Den.

What holds this down? Say on a KT7A-Raid board?
You have a few options, 1 being thermal epoxy, another= super glue on the corners, and thermal paste between, and also Thermal Tape. I use thermal tape right now, to hold my water block to my vid card, works fair, but I am going to go for the glue/ paste soon.
What if you fry your cpu how will you get the waterblock off epoxy is really strong so what do you guys do to get if off
The best way I have found to hold one of these water blocks on a chipset is with nylon bolts. There are holes in the mobo where the clips hold the stock heatsink on this is where you put the bolts. Make a small alluminum cross peice to hold the block down. At least this way if you want to for some reason it will be very easy to go back to a H/S.
My vid card,; Radeon, dosn't have holes, so I just got done Lapping the senfu water block I put on it, removed the thermal tape, cleaned up the gpu, put thermal Paste on the gpu, except for the very edge of the four corners. Put a Very small drop of super glue gel on each corner, applied the block, and started up the system, ran 3dmark 2001, and my temp taken with a probe on the back of the gpu never made it to 77f. It works great...... and the glue holds very well.
I got the nylon bolts from a local hobby shop that deals in remote control airplanes, cars, boats, and stuff like that. I bet you could come up with something with a google search though.

Also if you have no choice but to glue a block on I have mixed Arctic Silver exopy with Arctic silver grease before. This provides a good hold but weakens the bond some so that it is possible to get it back off at a later date.
Use superglue in the corners and paste in between. I have used both Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy and Superglue and the superglue system is by far more convenient. Not only does the glue dry faster, but since you are using paste which has a better transfer rating than epoxy, your cooling should be just as effective.

Epoxy is just a real pain in the @$$ in general...don't waste your money on it.
hmm, i hadn't thought about the super glue thing. I have used the arctic silver adhesive, it works really well, and it will come off with some gently prying and is not a pain like other epoxies. The conductivity is not too bad(not as good as the super glue trick, putting that one into my brain).
If the surfaces are prepped properly, Artic Silver epoxy is a ***** to remove. For boards like the Abit KT7 series with mounting holes for a HS, constructing a simple clamp is a better solution. Save the AS epoxy for cooling the voltage regulators.

Addition to my post. The Danger Den chipset cooler is slick (thanks Dennis, Dan &Jereme!). Since my box is getting a Maze2.2 with two 172 watt pelts, the DD chipset cooler is going in the wife's box along with my old Maze2.
Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy is hard to REMOVE as in take off completely, but it's not actually that hard to separate things held on by ASTE. The trick is to twist or push across the two things being held together, rather than to try to pull them apart directly. By doing this you can break the bond of ASTE almost every time.

That's not my main issue with ASTE though. I'm mostly concerned with the annoyance of the whole process. First you have to mix the two epoxy materials, then you have to apply them to the two surfaces. Applying ASTE is kind of a pain in itself because it is rather thick. Then you have to wait for them to bond... This is the worst part, the bond takes far too long. With superglue you are up and ready to go within 1-2 minutes, ASTE takes at least 5 minutes to even begin to bond and it does not reach full strength for 24 hours!