Classsic 600 slot, what can it hit?? lapp/peltier/good fans/GFD and Mathlon

[oc jason]

I have a classic slot 600 with a 650 core. Im gonna use a GFD to up the multiplier and use mATHLON to change the L2 speed. i want 900mhz, at 1/3 L2 cache. Can it be done with pc100 memory. I got 3-128 stix at cas2. so id need 9x100 at 1/3 L2 cache which it what it is at now with the default 1/2 cache 6x100=600 at 1/2 L2=300. I have a Gold Orb with a coldplate lapped everything with 600/800/1500 grit coldplate and HS, got a 80mm, sucking from the PS, a 90mm in the rear sucking out, and a 120 in the bottom front blowing in, also the little fan in the Gorb? If i do get 900 should i get better cooling, maybe a peltier?? Cant check temps MBM does not work on myt board, also it is not shown in the BIOS

 

[Murphy]

Some nice tips...

LikuidFusion (Apr 30, 2001 09:12 a.m.):
I have a classic slot 600 with a 650 core. Im gonna use a GFD to up the multiplier and use mATHLON to change the L2 speed. i want 900mhz, at 1/3 L2 cache. Can it be done with pc100 memory.

Yes, this can be done with pc100. What you want is to overclock your multiplyer, so your RAM MHz does not matter. Also no matter wether you use 100 or 133, your FSB will always be 100, only the mobo uses a higher RAM bus. When you go upping your FSB (which I can't recommend) you will OC your RAM too, maybe even resulting in instability.

I got 3-128 stix at cas2. so id need 9x100 at 1/3 L2 cache which it what it is at now with the default 1/2 cache 6x100=600 at 1/2 L2=300.

900 OK, 9x100 OK, but the 1/3L2 isn't necesary. L2 cache, the 2 chips mounted on your CPU's PCB, can be overclocked too! (hehe!). I have 500 @ 800. My stock L2 = 1/2 = 250MHz. I just left it at 1/2, now it's doing 400. L2 doesn't give off much heat, but you will need to attack your cooling to the chips too! The standard heatplate has some contact, not optimal. If you have some pieces of aluminium around, I recommend adding them between heatsinkplate and L2chip. If you don't use the standard heatsinkplate (like me), you have a distance of 2mm between core and L2 chips, the core is the higher one. So you need 2 pieces of 2mm thick alu to stick in between. I use standard silicon paste for this, works fine, no problems. Remember, especialy if you are planning to use arctic silver, which is not nesecairy for L2 chips, NOT to get the grease on the chips feet! You don't want any short cirquits. I once had some grease between them, I used a toothbrush to get it out. Pffft! Got me nervous for a while.

Getting back on L2 multiplyer. Increase your multiplyer (step by step). When you get instable by L2 cache (errors loading windows, that's when your L2 get's loaded, no problems POSTing), lower multiplyer, I recommend Mathlon if there is no BIOS for your Mobo available which supports L2 adjustment. Voltage increase could help to for some small instability.

(about your RAM, cas2 is nice, but will get instable soon when OC'ing. Try setting it back to CAS3, helps increase overall stability). When finding the max. speed of your CPU, always keep other components on spec!!! If you still run your Geforce2 core 200@300, it will give you much trouble (oh, just a stupid example).

I have a Gold Orb with a coldplate lapped everything with 600/800/1500 grit coldplate and HS, got a 80mm, sucking from the PS, a 90mm in the rear sucking out, and a 120 in the bottom front blowing in, also the little fan in the Gorb?

I had a GORB too, it really needs lapping. At the moment I finished it, I had the hardware for my watercooling ready, so I never did extensive tests with the lapped GORB. But anyway... Your coolingsetup looks fine. What I did to mod my GORB: I used the two 60mm fans from my stock cooler and attached them to the fins near the L2-chips on the gorb. They blew air form the sides to the centre, they were mounted at the outside of the GORB, increasing it's size dramatically. The lower one was 1cm above my videocard. Just if you have some 60mm's around.

IMHO the GORB is a bad cooler because air flows in circles around the centre. Maybe you can make some cardboard ductwork around that circle like thing to prevent air flowing straight back from bottom to the top again.

(to be continued in next post, more than 4098 characters)

 

[Murphy]

Some nice tips (continued)

If i do get 900 should i get better cooling, maybe a peltier?? Cant check temps MBM does not work on myt board, also it is not shown in the BIOS

Let's say you get your CPU to 700 without any L2 or voltage mod. No problems, but then it gets harder. 750 might need L2 adjustment (this is the point where stock L2 speed lowers, most of the chips rated above 3.3ns will fail at 1.6V). Maybe the core needs some extra voltage, say 1.65V. (hehe, this was my story, I've got an 650core with 3.3ns L2).

800, 850 needs 2/5 Cache, if you are lucky it still runs 1/2. Increased voltage for core. 1.7 should be fine if you ask me. You say you have no temp. measurement. Feel the base of the GORB wether it's warm. Warm=OK, getting hot for your hand means about 50°C. I use a car thermometer, attached the probe to the backside of the CPU, right under the core (my CPU is naked, no housing anymore). I used the foam included in my Mobo box to push the probe to the CPU and insulate it. GREAT tip when you are going to make some gaskets for peltiers, the stuff doesn't conduct and most of all IT'S FREE!

If you feel confortable, increase voltage to 1.8V. With proper cooling, this is ok. Just to refresh your mind: CPU's die because of HEAT, not of VOLTAGE (well, not entirely, but you get the drill..). I use 1.9V to run my CPU 850, and tried 875 with 2.0V. It booted once (!! ), but did not post and my mobo gave a overheated signal (it has no thermistor, but when your CPU get's unstable while running, mobo thinks it's overheated).

Peltiers are nice, watercooling is really recommended for them, the 0.25um cores of athlon produce MUCH heat, so you will need more than 80W.

900 is possible, but will require GOOD temps and extreme voltage, and of course much luck! If your core is willing, maybe you do the 900 with the GORB, maybe not...

When you get your GFD, maybe it's nice to see first what you can do with your standard aircooling. If you aren't pleased enough and want to go further, go and think about watercooling with or without a peltier. I was thinking about pelts for a while, but my major problem is to get a proper powersupply for the pelt and still get my setup stable!

Hey, maybe nice to mention. I've got a friend of mine willing to take his digital camera over here soon, so I can get pictures of my rig on the forum

Good luck OC'ing. Just remember not to do STUPID things, use your brain, and nothing will go wrong. And remember to let me know how things go!

Hope this explains, Greetings,
Rob

 

[-=UR=- Ranger]

I was able to get my Athlon 650 up to 900 with aircooling.
I´m using some Global Win Heatsink with dual Y.S.-Tech 60 mm,
26cfm fans.
I had to up voltage to 1.9 V, but as the CPU runs at 38 degrees, I don´t worry about it. I use Mathlon to set Cache to 2/5. That´s enough, as I know, that my cache is capable of at least 410 Mhz (822 with 1/2).
At the moment I´m using a GFD to set my multiplier to 7,5
I prefer a higher FSB, as it gives ýou more 3D performance.
Good luck!!!

 

[Murphy]

-=UR=- Ranger (May 01, 2001 06:07 a.m.):
I was able to get my Athlon 650 up to 900 with aircooling.
I´m using some Global Win Heatsink with dual Y.S.-Tech 60 mm,
26cfm fans.
I had to up voltage to 1.9 V, but as the CPU runs at 38 degrees, I don´t worry about it. I use Mathlon to set Cache to 2/5. That´s enough, as I know, that my cache is capable of at least 410 Mhz (822 with 1/2).
At the moment I´m using a GFD to set my multiplier to 7,5
I prefer a higher FSB, as it gives ýou more 3D performance.
Good luck!!!

Hey, but you've got a 700core, that really helps. I have suspicions that it is a 0.18um sample (because of the temps, what cooling do you use?). Your mobo must help you in reaching those high FSB. What chipset does it use? Thumbs upp on the performance!

 

[-=UR=- Ranger]

Yes, Murphy, I am using a .18um Athlon.. Code: AMD - K7650MTR51B A
Mobo is Abit KA7, which uses Via KX 133 Chipset...
while I´m typing this, my CPU runs 930 (7.5 x 124)@ 1.95 v; 39 degrees under load
The highest stable FSB I couldn´t get over126 with it, but it could also be my Ram, as it is only OEM PC 100.
Cooling constist of Mid-Tower Case with two 80 x 32 mm Papst intake fans and two 80 x 25 mm + Power Supply for exaust. Case temp is 24 degrees with 22 Ambient
Heatsink is a Global Win,(forgot the exact name), with thermal grease.
I put on two Y.S.-Tech 60 mm, 26 cfm fans

 

[GERRY136]

hey likuid my core has the green tint as u suspected. its says amd k 650, just like u said it would. for some reason when i pulled my cpu out of slot to see how hard it would be to remove the stock clips, then replaced it, as it was, my new 20 gig ibm deskstar fried!!! ran gw scan and code was 2057 which apparently means its toasted. gateway is sending another. power was off but should i have removed power cord from puter completely?
just got gfd and am waiting for hsf and arctic silver 2. till then i guess i will lap the cold plate as u guys suggested and install my fans. thanx!

 

[SavageBeaSSt]

Hope you better luck than me. I've got a 750 Classic that won't do better than 884 (8.5X104). It won't POST at 9X. I'm at a loss here as to why.