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- Jan 9, 2002
- Location
- New Jerzy
the idea: 18 x 18 x 9.... all plexi glass.... how to make it stay togeather....? any idea's would be helpful
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Clear Case
- Thread starter notquiterite
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
- Location
- Chicago, Illinois
epoxy and or those L shaped metal things screwed to the case sides. Thats just from reading articles, I've never built a plexi case. Are you going to put a window in?
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2002
- Location
- Nashville, TN
m_mike_k said:epoxy and or those L shaped metal things screwed to the case sides. Thats just from reading articles, I've never built a plexi case. Are you going to put a window in?
What's sad is I almost clicked on the reply button before I realized that was a joke. Maybe he should put in an anti-window. A piece of metal inside part of the plexiglass.
There is a chemical you can get...I will get the full name for you when I find the bottle my roommate has. Anyway, its like hydrochloridemagnasuperdupersomethingcool. But it makes seamless connections, and they are strong. I'll edit when I find it.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2002
- Location
- Cincinnati, Oh.
Or you could try some super glue with like three small chunks of plexi around 1/2" to 3/4" to make a cube. Use those on the edges as catches that can be drilled for screws from both panels. Just a thought
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2002
- Location
- down at fraggle rock
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2001
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec, Canada
h20link said:
Dead link.
A drill, a tap and die set, some set screws and a steady hand would be my choice. Unless you're going for the seamless, no visible fastener aproach.
Avatar28 said:
What's sad is I almost clicked on the reply button before I realized that was a joke. Maybe he should put in an anti-window. A piece of metal inside part of the plexiglass.
I would do the window for the sole purpose of making people ask!!!!
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2002
- Location
- Boston
there's somthing called edc. I would use aluminum sides to hold it together thouhg.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
- Location
- Chicago, Illinois
CrystalMethod said:
That would probably be the best way since it is very sturdy and if you had to take your case apart you could still keep the plexi without any cleaning. I bought a big piece of plexi for practing cutting mobo and drive cutouts so I will try that. I already have a drill(4 of them) and a tap set(and $500K of other tools) since I am in carpentry. All I need to get now is the steady hand.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2001
- Location
- trafford.PA.
the glue you use is weld 3 it it like water so be careful. thats what I used to build mine. turned out very well.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2001
- Location
- trafford.PA.
you can get it here http://www.jmkdisplays.homestead.com/cleanersnpolishes.html
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Location
- Blue Springs, MO
clear case...
Not to burst your bubble or anything, but people have been suggesting this for so long thats its not really a mod any more. The case companies have been produceing them for a while. Heres one of them:
http://www.cyberguys.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&T1=162+0220&UREQA=1&UREQB=2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4
$189 may sound like a lot, but consider the price of the plexiglass you need, then double it cuz your bound to make some mistakes. Your bound to spend over 100.
Personaly I'm not much for clear cases for a few reasons.
1. Your steel case is more heat conductive than plexiglass, and therefor dissipates heat better.
2. You would have to run a lot of grounding wires in a plexiglass case to be safe.
3. plexiglass is a pain to cut, so adding a new fan hole becomes a huge task.
4. All said and done, 70% of the case ends up just showing steel and the green, blue, or gold PCB of the motherboard, unless you remake the caseings for your drives.
IMHO just go for a window. They are cheaper, easier, and still shows off the cool looking part of the case.
Not to burst your bubble or anything, but people have been suggesting this for so long thats its not really a mod any more. The case companies have been produceing them for a while. Heres one of them:
http://www.cyberguys.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&T1=162+0220&UREQA=1&UREQB=2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4
$189 may sound like a lot, but consider the price of the plexiglass you need, then double it cuz your bound to make some mistakes. Your bound to spend over 100.
Personaly I'm not much for clear cases for a few reasons.
1. Your steel case is more heat conductive than plexiglass, and therefor dissipates heat better.
2. You would have to run a lot of grounding wires in a plexiglass case to be safe.
3. plexiglass is a pain to cut, so adding a new fan hole becomes a huge task.
4. All said and done, 70% of the case ends up just showing steel and the green, blue, or gold PCB of the motherboard, unless you remake the caseings for your drives.
IMHO just go for a window. They are cheaper, easier, and still shows off the cool looking part of the case.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2001
- Location
- trafford.PA.
I spent $30.00 for the 1/4 plexi its very strong. and I did not run any wires for ground. you really dont need them.nothing looks better then a plexi case all lit up. and its fun to build them. just build it. you will have something you can say (I built that my self)
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Location
- Blue Springs, MO
Man, your lucky! I just checked to make sure I wasn't crazy. Local hardware store wants $12 for a 1/8" x 12" x 24" sheet of acrylic. That would only be big enough for the front or back, and would have to be cut for width. They don't even have Plexiglass brand.
Not grounding is bad, and for the same reasons states have started including it in their wireing codes over the last 20 years. Sure, things will probably be fine without it. But if something very very bad happens (like your water cooler cracks) wouldn't you rather know that each component has a solid path to the ground plug in your PS?
I can understand pride issue, but there are better things you could build. Now a server case with a couple 8 port 10/100 switching hubs, a router, and a CSU/DSU all build into it would be cool, usefull, and look pretty neat. Or how about an ultra thin (no thicker than a standard HD height) machine to mount under those expensive hanging flatscreen monitors?
They are just ideas, nothing of consequince. Though I suppose Hitlers mother probably said the same thing at some point.
Not grounding is bad, and for the same reasons states have started including it in their wireing codes over the last 20 years. Sure, things will probably be fine without it. But if something very very bad happens (like your water cooler cracks) wouldn't you rather know that each component has a solid path to the ground plug in your PS?
I can understand pride issue, but there are better things you could build. Now a server case with a couple 8 port 10/100 switching hubs, a router, and a CSU/DSU all build into it would be cool, usefull, and look pretty neat. Or how about an ultra thin (no thicker than a standard HD height) machine to mount under those expensive hanging flatscreen monitors?
They are just ideas, nothing of consequince. Though I suppose Hitlers mother probably said the same thing at some point.
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Asteroid B-612
If you're morally opposed to using glue (like me, and super glue would eat\fog up the plastic) you could buy 1/2" thick sheets which would allow you to make tapped holes. That would allow you to screw on all of the sides so that the case could later be disassembled\redesigned to larger measurements.
I'm working on a 10" x 10" x 6" Lexan LAN case.
I'm working on a 10" x 10" x 6" Lexan LAN case.
I'm new at building comps, and I plan on building a plexi case for my first box. I recognize that this may be sort of dumb, but so it goes.
What I was thinking, though, was plexi with metal seams and, more specifically, hinges. This'll be my primary computer, so I'll need to get in and out a lot, so what I want to do is put hinges along the top side edges, so the whole top flips off. If I do that, I'm not going to need epoxy and such, but that means gaps in the case.
I have three worries, though: grounding, shielding, and air flow.
What am I going to have to worry about as far as grounding goes? Do I need to get a tray for my motherboard, or can I just put it on supports? Shouldn't it get grounded through the power supply?
What do I need to think about as far as shielding goes? I know EMI/RFI is a consideration, but I don't know what factors go into that or how I could counter it.
I'm not going to be overclocking this just yet, but I'm worried about air flow because with the hinges it isn't going to be anything close to airtight. Will that be a problem?
Thanks for any help you guys have.
What I was thinking, though, was plexi with metal seams and, more specifically, hinges. This'll be my primary computer, so I'll need to get in and out a lot, so what I want to do is put hinges along the top side edges, so the whole top flips off. If I do that, I'm not going to need epoxy and such, but that means gaps in the case.
I have three worries, though: grounding, shielding, and air flow.
What am I going to have to worry about as far as grounding goes? Do I need to get a tray for my motherboard, or can I just put it on supports? Shouldn't it get grounded through the power supply?
What do I need to think about as far as shielding goes? I know EMI/RFI is a consideration, but I don't know what factors go into that or how I could counter it.
I'm not going to be overclocking this just yet, but I'm worried about air flow because with the hinges it isn't going to be anything close to airtight. Will that be a problem?
Thanks for any help you guys have.
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
- Location
- Blue Springs, MO
If this must be done
If you really wanted a clear case try this.
1. Run one wire with a insulated ring terminal to the power supply, put one of the mount screw through it. Run the other end to terminal block. Useing the same concept make CD, floppy, HD, etc are grounded as well. Run a metal strip along where you screw in your cards, and ground it to the terminal block. The mobo is trickier. Its designed to be grounded at each mount screw, where your outputs touch your ATX back plate. A metal ATX back plate could be grounded to the terminal block. The mount screws would either be a lot of wires, or just a metal mound plate. That takes care of grounding. Not 100% nessecary, but you can worry less that way.
2. Since your not marketing the case, not one but you will care about EMI/RFI. Shielding is only nesseacary if it will be close to other componets, like your monitor. It may comprimise your TV and radio reception, but not a lot. Leaded glass would actualy provide some shielding, but its harder to cut more expensive and easier to break. The grounding above should actualy help too. Make sure you have a good surge protector, not a cheap suppressor.
3. Airflo shouldn't be a big deal, just make sure of the design before building. Before its put together you can add as many fans as you want. Keep in mind that your case its self is no longer as thermoly conductive. Basicaly, design it with more airflow than you think nessecary. Adding more fans later will be a pain.
4. Joining the case edges can be made easy by getting long rectangles of clear plastic, and screwing into them from both sides. High intensity LEDs mounted in the ends of each bar should give you light bars on each edge of the case.
If you really wanted a clear case try this.
1. Run one wire with a insulated ring terminal to the power supply, put one of the mount screw through it. Run the other end to terminal block. Useing the same concept make CD, floppy, HD, etc are grounded as well. Run a metal strip along where you screw in your cards, and ground it to the terminal block. The mobo is trickier. Its designed to be grounded at each mount screw, where your outputs touch your ATX back plate. A metal ATX back plate could be grounded to the terminal block. The mount screws would either be a lot of wires, or just a metal mound plate. That takes care of grounding. Not 100% nessecary, but you can worry less that way.
2. Since your not marketing the case, not one but you will care about EMI/RFI. Shielding is only nesseacary if it will be close to other componets, like your monitor. It may comprimise your TV and radio reception, but not a lot. Leaded glass would actualy provide some shielding, but its harder to cut more expensive and easier to break. The grounding above should actualy help too. Make sure you have a good surge protector, not a cheap suppressor.
3. Airflo shouldn't be a big deal, just make sure of the design before building. Before its put together you can add as many fans as you want. Keep in mind that your case its self is no longer as thermoly conductive. Basicaly, design it with more airflow than you think nessecary. Adding more fans later will be a pain.
4. Joining the case edges can be made easy by getting long rectangles of clear plastic, and screwing into them from both sides. High intensity LEDs mounted in the ends of each bar should give you light bars on each edge of the case.
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