Condensation proofing

[TT120]

Whats the best way to protect from condensation using the foam sheets that come with the peltiers. Or is that even what that stuff's for.

 

[kat]

if you can get colins attention im sure he would be the guy to talk to seems to have a handle on water pelt cooling

 

[jordan]

lots of silicone and those foam pieces! The silicone goes on the inside and outside rim of the socket. Put dialectic grease in the actual socket. The foam goes on the back of the mobo with even more silicone. that should about do it, there are some websites that show in detail how to do it, but I dont know the web addresses. Go to google search to find one.

 

[bdf24]

Well I guess it depends on how cool you plan on getting your cpu. Right now with my 86w pelt with this slot 1 alpha. All i have is foam to seal off the pelt and cpu slug, as well as a thin layer of foam in the middle of the back of the chip. That seems to handle pretty good. When I had my 50w pelt I didnt use any foam or gaskets. I ran the peltier in the open. The cpu wasnt enough under room temp to worry about it.

When I go to water cooling with in the next few weeks I will get some cheap mouse pads and use the rubber on them to totall seal off all the way around my cpu. Front, back, and all sides. as well as put a large piece on the back of the board where the slot is located to prevent it from building up on the back of the motherboard. Also I'll use dielectric grease in the slot.

When you put silicone on any electronics make sure it is the clear silicone. The ones with any pigment or color at all can be conductive. so be carefull. I wouldnt go to nuts incase you want to take it off someday.

Here is a link from this site which covers it pretty good.

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www.overclockers.com

 

[stool]

You'll want to fill the socket with a layer of silicone and then closed cell foam. Also, silicone should be placed around the outside of the socket, making sure that the lever isn't impeded. Use the pads as your closed cell foam for the rear of the motherboard and around the socket. I have used spray polyurethane as an adhesive for the foam, and also used conformal coating. You can't take too many precautions to make sure that you aren't forming condensation. The suggestion for dielectric grease is a very good one, as is using mouse pads for additional foam. As you didn't mention it, you should also pot the pelt(seal the sides with hightemp RTV silicone)

 

[TT120]

Thanks guys, That was what I was looking for. Right now I dont have a problem because I only have an 85 wat pelt on there and the temps aren't that low as to worry about it. It's potted so I dont have to worry about that. I just have some thick stuff around the pelt and the coldplate and it's a bit thicker than the pair so it's making a good seal on the chip and the waterblock. I'm just gathering information for when I go to the larger pelt.

 

[Colin]

Haven’t been around much do to the taxman and starting a second business. Looks like all of the basics have been covered. The one thing I will add is Aqua Seal. It’s a liquid urethane rubber used for neoprene wetsuit and wader repair. It works great on circuit boards and if used with the Cotol hardener, it dries in two hours. Also clear Dow silicone can be thinned with naphtha to make a super cheap conformal coating.

 

[bdf24]

Hey TT120, What are your cpu temps? I have about the same wattage peltier and am going to watercooling in a few weeks. My temps right now are around the middle teens at an idle with my pelt and a slot 1 alpha. I know your temps will be quit a bit higher with that T-bird then my PIII.

 

[TT120]

bdf24 (Apr 18, 2001 05:49 a.m.):
Hey TT120, What are your cpu temps? I have about the same wattage peltier and am going to watercooling in a few weeks. My temps right now are around the middle teens at an idle with my pelt and a slot 1 alpha. I know your temps will be quit a bit higher with that T-bird then my PIII.

Right now at full load the CPU is at 13 and the MoBo temp is at 25. At idle, the CPU drops to -2