Considering soft tubing

[Celeron_Phreak]

Currently I have a Lian Li O11D XL case, with the GPU vertical mounted, everything plumbed with 14/10 arcylic tube. Nothing necessarily wrong with the loop or the case, I am playing with ideas to gain some desk space back.

I am considering moving everything to a Thermaltake Core X71, to put on a raised platform next to my desk, maybe do a dual loop while I "reinvent the wheel" with my setup.

If do end up moving to the Thermaltake case, aesthetics would not be a big concern for me anymore. The acrylic blocks will still be used to monitor any fin blockage or sludge buildup over time, but ease of maintenance would be my first priority, meaning soft tubing would be put to use here.

I am not at all familiar with soft tubing, and am curious as to what is recommended in terms of material and brand. Cost is not so much of a concern, I would just want tubing that won't break down or collapse easily, and less likely to leach anything into the fluid. I had PETG tubing for awhile and the amount of plasticizers leaching into the fluid left a nasty slime/gunk all over everything when I did my first full tear down and cleanout (I have not had this issue with acrylic tubing).

 

[Nebulous]

I've been using nothing but Primochill tubing. Doesn't leach or kink. Best soft tubing out. Comes in different colors too.

 

[Celeron_Phreak]

I've been using nothing but Primochill tubing. Doesn't leach or kink. Best soft tubing out. Comes in different colors too.

Thata awesome to hear, I can get that pretty quickly too since they are based here in Boise Idaho.

Is there any benefits/drawbacks to running a solid color tube over a clear tube, besides the obviously ability to see build up on a tube wall?

What do you think of their soft tube fittings?

 

[Woomack]

I'm using almost only 10/16 tubes, as some years ago I noticed they're not bending to the point that could block the flow, so it's easier for the installation, and you don't need additional expensive fittings.
The EK matte black series is great. Alphacool tubes are good, too. For some reason, EK fittings fit better with Alphacool tubes, Alphacool fittings fit better with EK tubes. Both are supposed to be the same size.
There is no difference if you use clear or solid color tubes. The advantage of solid color is that in time, most clear tubes get yellowish, or you see stains (depending on the coolant). With solid colors, you just remove the dust, and it looks new.

 

[Nebulous]

Thata awesome to hear, I can get that pretty quickly too since they are based here in Boise Idaho.

Is there any benefits/drawbacks to running a solid color tube over a clear tube, besides the obviously ability to see build up on a tube wall?

What do you think of their soft tube fittings?

I haven't seen anything grow since I stopped using dyes. As for clear or your choice of color, go with what you think will enhance your build. Fittings is a personal preference. I've been using bitspower fittings. No issues at all. Beware of cheapo/chinese knock off fittings. Just because they're cheap, doesn't mean they're made well.

Primochill tubing comes with a system prep solution you mix with distilled water to wash out the cooling system, Then after you rinse, add biocide when you fill with fresh distilled water. You'll be golden, trust me. Nothing will grow so long as you don't have your rig in direct contact with sunlight.

 

[BugFreak]

There is no difference between their color or the clear other than looks that I know of. I have only used plain brass barbs and Bitspower compression fittings so I can't speak to Primochill fittings. Pretty though.

I used Primochill tubing for years with no problems other than discoloration (yellow) over time. I used it both with and without a silver coil, premix stuff and ph nuke/distilled water mixes all without trouble. Then for some dumb reason I decided to try something different and used Mayhems tubing in my current build. Well it turned yellow almost immediately and is so soft the pump sucks it flat near the intake. I had to use zipties on the tubing to keep it round. Needless to say I'll be going back to Primochil when I rebuild.

 

[Woomack]

That's why I'm using 10/16 tubes. They're never "flat" and too soft, and can make sharp angles if you need to (sometimes it's good for tight builds, or when you have a sandwich case and pump/res on the back). Sometimes people are surprised at first, as I'm using the same for tight ITX builds.

These are with EK 10/16 black matte tubes, so you can see how tight are on some photos, and they're not getting flat:

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I switched tubes to white Alphacool 10/16 recently - the test PC from the last link. White looks well with a lot of RGB as everything turns the illumination color. This is when you don't like clear tubes with dyes, but still want them in non-standard colors.

 

[BugFreak]

That's whats sad about the Mayhems tubing. I use 1/2id 3/4od. Its just trash tubing n

 

[Nebulous]

That's whats sad about the Mayhems tubing. I use 1/2id 3/4od. Its just trash tubing n

I remember using their Dye. In less that 6 months it gellied up and gunked up the works. I remember using MasterKleer back in the day too.

 

[Woomack]

Mayhems dyes were a pain. Most water cooling brands said that if you use them, then you lose warranty. Pumps were dying, and stains were everywhere. This is one of the reasons why I only use clear coolants (even pure distilled water is better).
All those fancy dyes are almost only for presentations, short-term builds, to make a "wow!" effect, but not to use them 24/7. The same is about most other dyes or pre-mixed coolants with dyes. The difference is that pre-mixed coolants leave stains (more or less), but don't turn into jelly that blocks the flow or can damage pumps.

 

[Celeron_Phreak]

I haven't heard anything good about mayhems dyes either, just a lot of horror stories. I have had good luck using EKWB cryofuel coolants, as well as PrimoChill's clear. I don't like the staining/residue that anything colored leaves on everything, so I try to steer away from anything colored, but would use CryoFuel again, as long as it isn't from their line of "solid" colors, or their mystic fog (particle separation after a few weeks).

So from what I am understanding, stay away from Mayhem's tubing (and dyes). Primo's fittings are just as good as any other.

I really like the EKWB hard tube Torque fittings, which is all I use right now. I was thinking of using their soft tube fittings too, but I might try out another brand if they have a nice quality fittings to use too. Is compression less likely to leak in comparison to barb and/or clamp?

 

[BugFreak]

I haven't heard anything good about mayhems dyes either, just a lot of horror stories. I have had good luck using EKWB cryofuel coolants, as well as PrimoChill's clear. I don't like the staining/residue that anything colored leaves on everything, so I try to steer away from anything colored, but would use CryoFuel again, as long as it isn't from their line of "solid" colors, or their mystic fog (particle separation after a few weeks).

So from what I am understanding, stay away from Mayhem's tubing (and dyes). Primo's fittings are just as good as any other.

I really like the EKWB hard tube Torque fittings, which is all I use right now. I was thinking of using their soft tube fittings too, but I might try out another brand if they have a nice quality fittings to use too. Is compression less likely to leak in comparison to barb and/or clamp?

You are one of only a few people I've ever heard good things about Cryofuel so you must be lucky. I avoid EK for any computer part and have for years.

Mayhems was really good stuff until they were bought out a few years ago. I never used their color fluids but the clear X1 was really good and lasted over two years in a build with no problems. Once the original guy sold it all went downhill though.

I've used both barb/clamp and compression with success. As long as both are installed correctly and not some cheap china junk they are the same, its just a cosmetic difference imho. Its when you get into the rotary style that leak problems occur. One bad seal can cause a leak in just about anywhere in the loop. That's why I stick with Bitspower these days, the pieces are costly but the quality is second to none.

 

[Woomack]

EK clear coolants are pretty good. I used them in a couple of builds in the last 2 years, and those that were 24/7 were still clear after long months. However, I was using their pre-mixed blue CryoFuel, and it was foaming with faster pumps, and their transparent, flat reservoir had visible stains after only about a month. Additionally, the D5 pump was starting to make weird noises after about 6 months.

As I remember, people have been complaining about Mayhems dyes since they started selling them. I guess there are no problems with any clear coolants as every brand uses different mixes, but "anti-everything" stuff. If you have a clean loop (like no dust, etc.), then good quality/clean distilled or demineralized water will still be clean for up to one year. It will be shorter if your coolant temps are high. I had test loops with nothing but local market demineralized water for 6-12 months and were still clean.
Alphacool clear coolants are good too, and their products are generally cheaper. In the last 2-3 years, I was actually using Alphacool or EK, depending on what was available when I was ordering other stuff. Alphacool also sent me some components for review, and they added additional bottles of coolant and some tubes.
I had no problems with Raijintek clear coolant too. It's only premixed 95% water and 5% propylene glycol. It doesn't seem hard to make coolant on your own, and it's for sure much cheaper.

All those deep solid colors or mystic fog or other great-looking coolants/dyes are not for 24/7 usage or for builds that are meant to work for longer years. It was described on some products, but somehow it's not on most of them anymore. It's fine when you replace components more often or see no problem cleaning the loop at least once a year.
For me it's a big problem when I have to clean everything, and it's always an additional cost. I waste a lot of time only to make it look good, but never as good as it was in the first place. I still have to replace all the tubes, so soft tubes seem easier/cheaper. The only alternative could be metal tubes. Nickel-plated brass looks good and is easy to clean. I hate acrylic tubes. They sometimes have little scratches, even when they're new. It's easy to scratch them during the installation and cutting.

About fittings, I like EK compression series the most - like in the #7 post, there is a titanium version. Bitspower looks like Alphacool, and they feel a bit standard. Bitspower, in general, isn't popular in the EU, and they seem to focus mainly on hard tubes nowadays.
For me there is no one perfect brand. I like EK tubes and fittings, Alphacool or Watercool radiators, and CPU/GPU blocks. Bykski has blocks for rare graphics cards, that no one else manufactures, and their quality is pretty good (but problems with availability). I don't know if I would trust them for a very expensive build, but I had 3 of their graphics card blocks, and the quality is not much different than Alphacool, EK, or Watercool.

 

[Celeron_Phreak]

Colored EK clear coolants do leave a film/stain behind that can be annoying to remove. I have used their blue, red, and purple clear coolants and every time I was getting an prominent oxidation ring at the top of the reservoir, at the top of the fluid level. It's difficult to removed, but not impossible. I have since switched to EK's clear coolant, and used Primo's clear once as well, and I haven't had anymore of the staining/film/oxidation issues I was having with the colored ones.

My loop is primarily EK components, minus the radiators (Alphacool) and the flow meter (Bykski), but that is because the res and pump were from my initial build and I like having them separate from the case, and each other.

The acrylic tubing has been fun to have as a showpiece system, but now I am feeling like ease of maintenance might be easier with the soft tubing. I enjoy flushing and cleaning out the loop when it needs to be done, since I get to tinker with the hardware while I am no longer upgrading. There is a point during the maintenance that I just want to be done with it though. lol