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Coolgate Quad 120mm Ultimate rad

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Dreadnought Class Senior
Oct 11, 2002
The Empire State
Got this one a few weeks ago from witchy for a helluva price. Needed more fans which I got yesterday from the egg. Today I proceeded to take the mega-o apart to swap rads. Washed the coolgate out for safety measures, even tho I know witchy took care of that ;). To my surprise there was a plug at the bottom of the rad that was missing. I had a swamp all over the kitchen floor spilling from the counter :eek:

Lucky for me I had the plugs from the XSPC rad and used that to plug it up, whew! ( Thanks again witchy! :p) So that was taken care of, went ahead with the operation. Come to find out the plug prevents the rad from lining up the holes and it's too far back into the rear of the case. Had to think of something quick, so out comes my trusty tin snippers. I got ahead and cut a 2"x 2" off the front of my beautiful primo, knowing the plastic front panel will cover that up. Crisis averted. Rad slipped in like a banana in prom..well you get the idea ;)

Filled up with fresh water, (distilled of course), a few drops of my critter killer, and bled. I have 8 BitFenix fans in push/pull and temps have dropped dramatically. Once I get a full cover block for the 1070, I'll add the 360 at the bottom of the case.

Witchy is an awesome guy who gave me a sweet dealio on one of the best rads out. When it arrived I opened the box and it was in prestine condition. There wasn't even dust on the fins!

Thanks again bud! :thup:
Dam I hope I still have air trapped in the rad. Just ran XTU and my temps shot through the roof! :eek: I hope the better rad performs better than my old one, but this is ridiculous. Please say it ain't so :(


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That doesn't look right. Is this a CPU only loop? Regardless, if it were say a CPU + single GPU, you shouldn't be getting temps like these. Either there's bad contact, low flow or airflow. Do you have any water temp probes to let you know what the temps of the fluid are? If not, just touch the tubing, touch the block (careful) and touch the rad to see if there's any signs of heat.
Yes, somthing isn't jibing there

Check CPU mount ? as well as the age of the paste you are using

Temps should should be significantly better
I didn't do anything else aside from swapping rads only. I didn't mess with the block as I didn't need to. Yeah this is a cpu loop only. Maybe I'll check the paste and swap that out and see. I'm sure it's something simple.
Adjusting pump/fan speeds didn't help. I'm gonna have to take the block off and check the TIM both under the block and the IHS since my chip is delidded. Might be well overdue to swap TIMs, but I find it strange that I have to given the TIM is really good Noctua-NT-H1. Really odd but wouldn't hurt, right?
Welp after using my google-fu, I found that the missing plug at the bottom was for the bleeder. Reading a review of the 360 model, the review mentioned the bleeder works great for vertical mounting. I'm thinking if there is indeed air still trapped inside, I might have to lay the pc on it's back where the I/O ports are, and open the bleeder to see if that will help. Any input witchy?

I haven't checked the block mount or TIM as I stated before, I didn't do anything else aside from just swapping out rads and adding a pair of new fans.
Have you tried tipping and tilting the case while the system was running to help free trapped air?
if vertical and can get top the bleeder can't hurt but yea, will have to try to do the case dance

picture of system would say a thousand words :)
Have you tried tipping and tilting the case while the system was running to help free trapped air?

Yeah did the tilt and bleed dance for hours to make sure, but yea.

if vertical and can get top the bleeder can't hurt but yea, will have to try to do the case dance

picture of system would say a thousand words :)

Well it's mounted horizontal (On top of case) thus is why I figured after reading the review and the bleed plug for vertical mounting. I'll post a few pics witchy ;)

*Edit* Pics:


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I would give it at least a week before you start putting some hefty benchmarks to use.

In my loop, I feel it took me 2-3 months before I heard nothing no more and the levels of the res. stabilized.
Well I took the front panel off and tilted the case on it's back. Slowly removed the bleeder plug and nothing came out. The water level is right to the top. Put the plug back in, righted up the case and fired up. This time no gurgling sounds. Ran XTU for just 3 min and again temps shot up :-/

It didn't take a week with my RX360 rad to bleed out. I dunno


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Reseated the block just incase. Still no joy :( Idle temps are phenomenal. It's the load temps that have me concerned.

Witchy HELP! :cry:

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Neb is it possible with all the switching of parts that the block has some debris in it?
I checked it last month when I had the heatercore installed. Took it apart and washed it out. There wasn't anything that would clog up the block. It was tiny particles that just got wedged in the fins which I removed with a toothbrush and compressed air.

I'm hoping the rad isn't blocked with something, but I'm sure witchy is as careful as any of us when it comes to things like that.
Well, if you take it apart again which you might end up doing just in case being your only choice left and nothing is found, than its your CPU/delid. Was this CPU delid because of its high temps originally?