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Copper top for WW block

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blsnelling1

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2003
Location
Cincinnati
What happened to my thread about the copper top for the White Water block? Here's the link the guy sent me when I inquired about the barbs. http://www.logiccooling.com/ They are a normal NPT barb and do not use the o-rings as the top from D-tek does. It is also extremely thick looking and appears to be much thicker than the base of the block itself. Why would it need to be so think, and therefore so heavy?
 
It is thick because it has the jet in it too. The machining process takes making it thick so the barbs can be tapped.

Jon
 
If you look at the pics in the link, you will see that the barbs probably only stick less than halfway into the bores, so it's not for them. Maybe it does have to do with the jet. The jet isn't a replaceable pieces and is simply a slot machined into the copper. Therefore, I still wouldn't think it needs to be so thick. It's considerable thicker than the clear top it replaces since he provides new screws to attach it with. I've emailed him with this question and will let you know his reply.
 
Well, I finally found out a little of the history as to why this topic has been so touchy. I was totally unaware of what went down, as I am new to the board. It was definately not my intent to stir up the pot. Carry on:)
 
well no, its the tapping procedure that is what needs the thicker top, not the barb.


Jon
 
Here is the reply I got from Logic Cooling concerning the thickness of the copper top.

"Yes, there are design reasons behind this. They include a minimum length of threads for the threaded hose barbs, proper nozzle implementation, and a one-piece construction that replaces both aluminum and plastic tops. While this top is thicker than the base, it will add considerable stiffness to the waterblock, minimizing any bending due to mounting forces which can cause extremely thin-based waterblocks like the WhiteWater to bow slightly, thus adversely affecting temperatures."
 
While this top is thicker than the base, it will add considerable stiffness to the waterblock, minimizing any bending due to mounting forces which can cause extremely thin-based waterblocks like the WhiteWater to bow slightly, thus adversely affecting temperatures."

Has anyone experienced this problem? I really can't see this being a problem since the entire base isn't thin. The edges are quite thick around the perimeter of the base. If there is any warping in the center of the block, a thicker top would have no effect.
 
blsnelling1 said:


Has anyone experienced this problem? I really can't see this being a problem since the entire base isn't thin. The edges are quite thick around the perimeter of the base. If there is any warping in the center of the block, a thicker top would have no effect.

my gemini block was slightly bent before i replaced it, i would say its as thin as the white water.
but whats more important is, if you're applying that kind of pressure to bend a copper block, what about cpu and the motherboard??
after removing my waterblock, my motherboard was permanently bent. i had to be really careful about mounting my new block without bending it anymore.
 
well he is right, but possibly not about the temperatur stuff.

Cathar did say that the middle peice of his did support the base, it sure as well could have but I really dont know.

Jon
 
JFettig said:
Cathar did say that the middle peice of his did support the base, it sure as well could have but I really dont know.

Yes, the role of the middle plate, aside from the nozzle jet, is to act as a brace for the tops of the fins which when the block is assembled and tightened together, pushes down on the fins to prevent any base flex due to mounting pressure.
 
Cathar said:


Yes, the role of the middle plate, aside from the nozzle jet, is to act as a brace for the tops of the fins which when the block is assembled and tightened together, pushes down on the fins to prevent any base flex due to mounting pressure.

Does that mean this copper top could bend the channels on the base?
 
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