Corsair 800D Water Cooling Help/Suggestions

[m0r7if3r]

sorta...you can't really talk in terms of just cfm. flow decreases as restriction increases, the amount it decreases is dependent on the static pressure of the fan. theoretically the single 60 will perform better because push tends to be the better configuration.

 

[Skalm]

aaaah ok, and even in a push/pull you have the pull fan creating resistance for the push fan and vice versa, correct?

Say I wanted to get similar performance as the Delta (Not quite as much) but what fans would i look at, if i wanted to do a push/pull?
This way I would be able to use lower RPM fans (lower dBa) and still be able to achieve a good airflow to provide adequate cooling?
Would I want to look at a few ~80 CFM fans, to achieve something similar to what a push from a Delta 190 CFM would give? (Not quite as good, but would it be doable?)

 

[m0r7if3r]

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html should get you started

 

[Skalm]

Dang lol there is stuff for everything xD

Well after looking at it, it seems that a push/pull w/o shroud only gives a ~7% increase in performance over a push w/shroud. That is using the same fan, so I am guessing that, two lower cfm/rpm fans would not provide the same performance as a single push from a larger high cfm fan. So it is looking like I will probably end up going with the Delta. I do wish I could hear one to see how loud it actually is, as listening on youtube gives me an idea of the tone it makes, but not how 'loud' it would actually be.

 

[m0r7if3r]

I have 3 san aces and I can tell you that, when undervolted, they're quite quiet. at full speed they're not that obtrusive...the deltas don't get as quiet as the san aces and they rev up higher...so i imagine at full bore they could get annoying.

 

[Skalm]

I was just looking at the San Ace, and they seem to be a good fit, they are not super loud, like the Delta, and yet they are still able to produce a good amount of air flow. Now to find a place that actually sells the San Ace H1011 fans......

 

[m0r7if3r]

performance pcs, bout $22 a fan...then shipping

 

[Skalm]

Oh sweet thanks, all I could find were websites that were out of them, or other ones saying they were discontinued ~_~


Edit: What is your guys take, on the Indigo Xtreme Thermal Stuff? Some sort of a liquid metal stuff. The one test I found for it, seemed to show that it was better in heat transfer than any other TIM available.

 

[m0r7if3r]

I've done a build with it, temps were good, it's a bit tricky to mount and not for you if you pull your heatsink off a lot...but it's good, just be patient with it...if you decide to use it make a post and I'll give you some tips on how I did it.

 

[Skalm]

I think I am going to try it out, when I order all my WC stuff. Is it liquidy out of the box, or is t a solid until you do the reflow thing where you heat it up with your cpu?

Edit: And nah, I don't really think I will be removing my heatsink at all once i get everything all installed.

 

[m0r7if3r]

it's solid metal when it shows up. The trick to it for me was to get the threading started, get it as tight as i could, start the reflow process, then keep checking the screws on the mounting hardware, they'll loosen up a bit once it goes liquid, you crank it down all the way from there. Oh, btw, order it from SVC, they're the cheapest after shipping iirc.

 

[Skalm]

SVC seems to be out of stock atm. Also, I updated my first post, with my 'proposed build'. Would 5 feet of tubing be enough? Or should I get more? Also, should i get an in-line temp sensor? Or is that pretty much just a waste?

Edit: Oh yes, as to exhaust or intake for my rad. Exhaust = Negative Pressure in my case and Intake = Positive Pressure. ATM I only have the rear fan as an exhaust and one top fan as an exhaust. and one top fan is an intake and the bottom mounted one is an intake (which moves little to no air). So I am not sure, if I should go as an intake or exhaust for my case. I read that negative pressure = cooler air in the case, but more dust, which if not kept track of can actually have a very negative effect on heat. Or I can have positive pressure with less dust, but slightly warmer air flowing around in the case. Any suggestions?

 

[m0r7if3r]

rad gets fresh air, 10ft of tubing, better too much than too little

 

[Skalm]

Cool, so now I am pretty much ready to start ordering stuff. Should I try to get it all from one place? (saves on shipping fee's) or should i try to look around and buy a piece here and a piece there?

Also, what size screws would I need? I was going to get 45mm long ones, would that be enough? I was going to use rubber grommets on the top, to keep the screws from scratching the case. And I was thinking of putting a silicon gasket/silencer between the fans/case (would that be needed?) If I used the grommet + silencer and the fan, that would total up to ~45mm (which is too short) I could go without the silencer/gasket and be at ~41mm (is ~4mm enough to screw into the radiator and hold it?)

Edit: On a side note, is it true, if you place an order with frozencpu, they give you a 10% discount coupon code? I read on some forum that they do, but the post may have been a year old xD

 

[Conumdrum]

I think I am going to try it out, when I order all my WC stuff. Is it liquidy out of the box, or is t a solid until you do the reflow thing where you heat it up with your cpu?

Edit: And nah, I don't really think I will be removing my heatsink at all once i get everything all installed.

Skalm? Can I ask how many times you have redone TPaste on CPU and GPU chips? Many first time watercoolers have enough issues without the added problems IX can cause. Some take at least TWO applications of IX to get it right the first time. And those are folks with many remounts. I'd like to try it myself, and over the last 18 years or so I've done ohh 50+ remounts, and I still don't feel the need for a small decrease in temps for the hassle of IX.. You really really should build the loop with conventional Tpaste first. It's your stuff and you live with your mistakes.

If you have quality Tpaste already, use it instead of the IX. You can easily redo it later once your rig is stable, bled, no leaks etc.

If you don't have any quality paste, toss a tube of MX-2 in the order, it isn't that much.

And you hade some questions about gromets, seals etc etc. Every rig is different, we can't advise you on everything. Nor can we come to your house. For many many of the small things your on your own, your brain and you will make it work.

Once your ready to order, take a screenshot of the order (S), size it down to a decent size and post it here. I had to use 3 stores for my very first WC loop. Do the best you can, and pay attention to shipping. A $3 part saving for $8 more shipping no workie.

 

[Skalm]

Awesome, I am going to try searching around, to try to get the parts as cheap as possible. And when I come up with the proposed orders I will make a post with the images of them. Thanks a ton for all of the help and patience you guys provided.

 

[Skalm]

OK So here is my 'proposed' shopping carts.

PetrasTechShop:
Bottle of Nuke - PHN and a Silver KillCoil ($14.34 with shipping)

Performance-PC.com:
I wanted matte black compression fittings and these were the cheapest I could find. ($13.74 shipping)

Frozen-CPU.com: (Have a 5% off Coupon and possibly a 10% off too)
Do you know of any other coupon codes for FrozenCPU? I looked at the cost differences on the parts, and most places that had them cheaper (usually only 5-10$ difference) but were all sold out. Also, with the availability of the 5% coupon and only 20$ shipping (where it was on average 10$ shipping on other sites) I figured this would be the best way to do it.

 

[Skalm]

Oh, I had a question that is off topic. And I was not sure where I should ask it. My friend/co-worker bought a computer from Digital Storm. And he told me that when he pushes the power button, the computer turns on briefly (fans come on n such) then it powers off. And then it powers back on and boots up into windows. He said he asked them about it, and they said that they 'installed' special hardware in the computer to do this 'preload' of voltage to the OverClocked parts on his computer. Now this sounds like a big steaming pile of you know what. I have never heard of anything like that. As far as I know, if you turn a computer off, most stuff loses its voltage (with the exception of capacitors and the likes). Have you guys ever heard of this before?

 

[m0r7if3r]

it might be loading settings if they're using some sort of propritary mobo...my gigabyte will do that when I clear cmos, it boots, clears, shuts down, boots again to windows...can't think why it would do it every time.

 

[Conumdrum]

Oh, I had a question that is off topic. And I was not sure where I should ask it. My friend/co-worker bought a computer from Digital Storm. And he told me that when he pushes the power button, the computer turns on briefly (fans come on n such) then it powers off. And then it powers back on and boots up into windows. He said he asked them about it, and they said that they 'installed' special hardware in the computer to do this 'preload' of voltage to the OverClocked parts on his computer. Now this sounds like a big steaming pile of you know what. I have never heard of anything like that. As far as I know, if you turn a computer off, most stuff loses its voltage (with the exception of capacitors and the likes). Have you guys ever heard of this before?

There is a mobo with a minor bug that did that. When Gigabyte came out with the first 1366 boards. A bios update fixed it I think. I have a Giga board, one of the first X58 And somehwere I remeber mine has done it a few times.

The above facts are more than two yrears old, so don't hold me to them exactly.

And I call it bunk too. Preload of voltage. LOL................