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Did I just get a bad i5-8600k?
- Thread starter Runscream
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #24
Yes. I started testing 4.7ghz from 1.25v and up. It would bsod on anything lower than 1.33, at which it didn't crash, but one core failed a few minutes into the test. On 1.34, one core would fail at around 12 minutes, and on 1.35, at 50 minutes. I have left it testing at 1.36v while I'm at work. If one core fails again, I'll just lower the frequency to 4.6, since temps are starting to get hot at this point.
Btw, HWMonitor was only displaying up to 1.28v before I left. I have no idea if it's just not reading the voltage correctly (I checked with core temp and it showed the same info) or if my mobo has a strange way of working with voltages.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
Quite possible your motherboard suffers from V_Droop which causes the voltage to drop under load. Look for LLC settings in your BIOS this should help level the voltage out and possibly allow you to lower the initial voltage.
- Thread Starter
- #26
Don't have to worry about overclocking with the Gigabyte D3, It has Current limit throttling and VRM thermal throttling for safety when you push the wattage to the limit. For moderate overclocking with Z370 4 phase Gigabyte you won't reach the limit from what I have seen in the forums.
For LLC on Gigabyte set it on High and it will set the Vcore close to what you set in BIOS for Vcore.
LLC load line calibration is a setting to bypass the Intel specifications.
- Thread Starter
- #28
These are my results after an 8 hour test. Finally got those stable 4.7ghz :') Yes, I am aware of the high temps, but, as you can see, my fans weren't spinning at their supposed speeds. They were supposed to work at 100% as soon as temps reached 80c. I'm going to try to fix that and do a quick test to check temps afterwards.
This test was done with 1.36v and LLC on standard. As I'm typing this I can see the voltage pretty much stable between 1.33 and 1.36v. Would it be worth it to set LLC to high and try to get the voltage down to 1.34 or 1.33? Or would it provide the same performance as right now?
This test was done with 1.36v and LLC on standard. As I'm typing this I can see the voltage pretty much stable between 1.33 and 1.36v. Would it be worth it to set LLC to high and try to get the voltage down to 1.34 or 1.33? Or would it provide the same performance as right now?
- Thread Starter
- #31
Because that's not its max RPM. Like I said, it wasn't spinning at its supposed speed. I found out the BIOS was taking "System 1" temps as input for the CPU fan even though "CPU" was selected. I tried fixing it installing Argus Monitor and controlling the CPU fan from there, but it only works for a while before dropping the fan's RPM to 500. I'll try reseting the BIOS and see if that fixes the issue.
I also tried 1.33v with LLC set at high and it actually gave me even higher temps lol. Then I tried 1.35v with LLC set at standard and it crashed at around 30 minutes. It seems 4.7ghz at 1.36v with LLC at standard is my limit. Might leave it at 4.6 and see how much I can lower the voltage to try to keep temps down.
Thanks for everything.
- Thread Starter
- #33
Yeah, it's set to reach full speed at 65c. I just removed the software to control it since it didn't really work. Resetting the BIOS seems to have done the trick. I'll test for temps.
- Thread Starter
- #35
Well, I just loaded the optimized defaults lol. And yeah, I know, but just bothers me that I could get lower temps if only the CPU fan was working as it should.
In the end, it reads the temps just fine when I'm in the BIOS, but it starts taking the wrong temps as input as soon as I get to windows. So I just set a very steep curve to try to achieve the RPM I'm supposed to be getting.
No problem I use optimized defaults a lot I'm always messing with my BIOS all the time. The problem you had sounds confusing. So your saying with default BIOS settings the CPU fan would not run full speed 80c? The reason I'm asking is I'm thinking of purchasing the Z370 HD3 and it has the same fan controller and I don't wan't to set any fan profiles, I like to leave it stock.
Alaric
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2011
- Location
- Satan's Colon, US
My approach is backwards from most. I find the max voltage I'm comfortable with and start bumping up speed until it won't go faster under my voltage ceiling. If it's too hot, I lower voltage and get my best speed under the new ceiling. Temps are a hard ceiling, as is voltage for me. I don't want to kill my chip or appreciably shorten its life. Finding an OC that's safe 24/7, then turning all the C states and EIST back on leaves me with a set and forget OC.
- Thread Starter
- #38
The default settings *should* make the CPU fan run full speed at 65c, at least that's what the default curve says it should do. However, in practice, the fan controller doesn't take into account the actual temperature of the CPU to control the speed, but a temperature labeled as "System 1", which seems to be the lower part of my mobo. Since this part doesn't get as hot the CPU, the CPU fan never goes beyond 900-1000 RPM whatever the actual CPU temp is. If it was reading the right temperature, it would go up to 1600 RPM as soon as the CPU reached 65c.
I have no idea if this is an issue everyone is having or if it's just my board.
I got lucky with my i5 7600k and Z170 HD3 all I did was set the multiplier to 4.8GHz and XMP then voltage looked fine and RealBench passed 4 hours.
My i5 6600k I had to increase the DVID +0.160 and XMP that was it.
I only mess with all the BIOS setting when I'm just having fun then flash the BIOS set my easy BIOS profiles.
My i5 6600k I had to increase the DVID +0.160 and XMP that was it.I only mess with all the BIOS setting when I'm just having fun then flash the BIOS set my easy BIOS profiles.
Wow I have not heard of that from anyone else. On my Gigabyte motherboard the default fan speed of the CPU at 64c is 1800 RPM and 75c 1950 MAX RPM.
When you manually set the CPU fan speed calibration does it work fine? The case temperatures like you say are slow to change.
Sounds like it might be problem with the PWM of your fan on the CPU. Or the controller is a problem, can you switch the CPU fan to Voltage control or try PWM? see if that will work.
Do you have the latest BIOS update?
