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Direct die pelt?

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FleshEating Bob

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2002
Location
I forget.
Wouldn't a direct-die/pelt setup yield better temps than a copper WB/pelt setup? Or would the pelt be damaged by the water flowing directly over the hot side? I'd try it myself, but I don't have $100 for a pelt+PSU at the moment.
 

aenigma

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
yeah it will be better because you ahve water directly touching the TEC hot side.BUT you proabbly have to have mucho water flow and turbulence with high wattage pelts.I have done it before with an 80w.But I didn't use it long because it leaked...
I made another one after that, and never really used it either and now i lost it doh...
 

Paxmax

Member
Joined
May 8, 2002
FleshEating Bob said:
Wouldn't a direct-die/pelt setup yield better temps than a copper WB/pelt setup? Or would the pelt be damaged by the water flowing directly over the hot side? I'd try it myself, but I don't have $100 for a pelt+PSU at the moment.

Tom Leufken sells "waterblocks for TECs" that have water flowing over the TEC surface. Though his "blocks" needs really big pumps, an Eheim 1048 doesn't cut it, so my guess is that the blockdesign is flawed. I know I wouldn't do them that way.
About it's success/failiure I don't know anything.
 

[EG]~NaTz~

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2002
Location
pittsburgh pa
hrrmmmm that is a tuffy.

considering the fact that cpus cool a lot better dd. but would atec ?

you may need about a 450 gph and a way to make sure that there were no dead zones. however if u made a plexi block and gave it a single U shape channel with around 400 gph i think you could do it. the only thing was how deep to make the channels? i mean the deepr the more heat capacity but ten the lower the flow rate...
 

aenigma

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Yeah dead zones can be a problems.I had a dead zone on my block I think.A high flow pump, with a small chamber over the pelt for the most velocity and turbulence would be the best I believe...
 

Diggrr

Underwater Senior Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2001
Only problem I can see with it is clamping pressure that the TEC's so sorely live by. With a hollow over the center of the TEC, there's little clamping pressure being applied there. If your TEC is concave on the cold side, it won't remove heat very effectively, as it won't contact the center of the colplate very well.

But TEC's do vary, and your's may be just fine.
And that's where I got the idea for one of my first waterblocks, Tim Whittaker's (OC member) pvc pipe cap waterblock was made to direct cool a TEC, but I substituted a copper plate.

Check your coldside flatness, then Rock On!
 

aenigma

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
I haven't seen a concave/convex cold side.With water directly cooling the hot side you don't need all that clamping pressure, but you could still clamp the cold plate to the cold side with alot of force...